The plans are from the Centuri American Rocketeer magazine, Volume 4, Number 1. The plans are on page 15. Go to: oldrocketplans.com HERE Parts are available from Semroc: 1 ST-718 18" Long ST-7 Body ... [Read More]
The ST-718 tube was cut 4 1/2" from the top for a payload section using my Odd'l Rockets CUTTER tool. This upper section will also hold the clay nose weight. A nose block was made for the payload ... [Read More]
The engine hook notch and launch lug hole will be on opposite sides of the body tube. Draw a pencil center line across the centering ring. Using a rotary punch, set it on the largest hole or 3/16" ... [Read More]
The engine block (or thrust ring) was notched for the Kevlar. I've been using a small diamond file with good results. After tying on the Kevlar, the block ring was glued into the rear of the ST-7 ... [Read More]
Here's how the split 1/4" long piece of BT-20 will hold down the engine clip. Before gluing the split ring, a piece of masking tape was set on the lock after making sure it was in line, straight ... [Read More]
The shroud was printed up using the Transition Tool from the Payload Bay website HERE : Print up the shroud cone on 110 lb. cardstock. Tube 1 size is an ST-7 at .759" Tube 2 size to fit the ... [Read More]
Pre-roll the shroud before cementing together. I learned a valuable tip from the Apogee website about using rubber cement instead of white glue when gluing a shroud tab. Lay a coat of rubber cement ... [Read More]
The shroud was dry fitted down the tube and over the centering ring. A (longer than needed) 5" launch lug was pushed in from the rear lug hole until it hit the inside of the shroud seam. A pencil ... [Read More]
This is the first try at the lug hole in the shroud. The shroud sides are still raised too high from the pressure of the lug underneath. I'll make the slot longer by punching another hole a little ... [Read More]
The original Centuri instruction plan has you glue the ring into the shroud then install it on the body tube. Because of the retaining ring, you'd be better off gluing the ring on first. Then, slide ... [Read More]
Even after the first primer coats, I was still trying to fill the lug / shroud gap with white glue fillets. It took a few applications to smooth it over. The nose cone was brushed with thinned CWF ... [Read More]
I applied some medium CA around the lip of the shroud to strengthen it a bit. Here's the shroud after the white undercoats. To do the stripes and roll patterns, there won't be any hard masking. All ... [Read More]
I had printed an extra shroud on some 20 lb. paper to make a template for cutting the Contact paper trim. The shroud sides were extended up to their center point. A compass was used to draw the ... [Read More]
The white areas were cut away from the template. While cutting away the template, I tried to cut through just the top black layer of the Contact paper. Be careful cutting the inside corners, you ... [Read More]
The upper trim roll patterns were strips of the black Contact vinyl. These were rolled around the body tube using the Centuri instructional drawing as a rough guide. Use a sharp knife and s ... [Read More]
This is how the model looked using the Centuri instructional drawing. I liked the looks of it, but it needs a third trim color. Time to find the aluminum Monokote Trim sheet. More detail was added ... [Read More]
To balance with the trim colors, the nose cone was spray painted aluminum. The instructions call for .40 oz. of clay weight to be added to the payload section. Clay was weighed and pressed it into ... [Read More]
I like the finished look, the aluminum trim helps set it off. Lessons learned: I didn't get as good a seam fill as I'd hoped. I tried a new smaller can of Dupli-Color Perfect Match Scratch Filler ... [Read More]