Descon 7 Tintinique Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Tintinique {Scratch}

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Scratch
tintinique

Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, me hearties, ya bilge rat, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, far too squat and stubby, shiver me timbers, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Begad! Arrr! Just As diamonique isn't diamond, ya bilge rat, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, needs t' watch more QVC!)

time capsule

Nestlé time capsule

time capsule forward view

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Begad! Ahoy! Amongst t' rockets thar be somethin' very different. Begad! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. Arrr! It was great. Avast! How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, arrr, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, and dig it up in t' future. Aye aye! Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). Begad! For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, ya bilge rat, t' capsule itself, arrr, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Better still, me bucko, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Whoever it was I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Begad! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, t' other for spare.

Anyway, arrr, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. I've got t' build this thing. Avast! Blimey! I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Time passes. DesCon6 begins. Aye aye! Blimey! Time passes. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! DesCon6 finishes. Well, blow me down! Blimey! UKRA 2000 approaches, matey, shiver me timbers, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, isn't goin' t' be ready. I dig out t' time capsule. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, and Explorers on t' Moon. Begad! I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and start t' think about t' body instead. Time capsules are cheaply moulded, thick in some places thin in others, and very flexible. Arrr! Avast! I had decided that it be t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. It needs an internal body tube, me hearties, ya bilge rat, matey, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, matey, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Begad! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, and this seemed ideal. Arrr! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, me bucko, me hearties, or even quantum tubing, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule was larger than 3", so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, and glued it in place, under t' shoulder. T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

sketches

T' preliminary sketches

rocksim plan
 
fin pod plan

View full size

Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, me hearties, so I draw some rough sketches, matey, then some rough, me bucko, arrr, shiver me timbers, dimensioned sketches. Blimey! My son, James, draws some sketches. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. Aye aye! It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Rocksim! Blimey! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Aye aye! Blimey! Now, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, ya bilge rat, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

inner body tube

Inner body tube, arrr, motor mount

inner body tube

Inner body tube, parachute bay

retaining nuts

Aft centerin' ring, me bucko, retainin' nuts

retaining clips

Aft centerin' ring, me hearties, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Ahoy! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, me hearties, arrr, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. Blimey! So, I decide t' have a short motor mount, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! I cut two, 3mm thick, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Well, blow me down! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. Aye aye! Blimey! T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. Avast! T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Avast! Well, blow me down! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' be epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Well, blow me down! T' aft cebterin' rein' be fitted, shiver me timbers, with no epoxy, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Once t' forward centerin' rin' be fixed, me bucko, me bucko, t' aft centerin' rin' be removed. This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, ya bilge rat, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, me bucko, no thrust rin' is required. But I do need a retention system. Aye aye! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, arrr, matey, through t' centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Avast, me proud beauty! Once dry, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. Arrr! Avast! T' clips are made from aluminium, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, me hearties, while held in a vice. T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

tintinique

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, arrr, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, when viewed side-on. Ahoy! This neccessitated a four fin design, matey, which was fine. Ahoy! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. Ahoy! It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, arrr, but what t' hey, shiver me timbers, artistic license! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, ya bilge rat, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. Avast, me proud beauty! In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Ahoy! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, t' more they seem like a nose cone, me bucko, but rounded at t' base, arrr, matey, where t' shoulder would normally be. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! I've had custom nose cones made before. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Aye aye! Blimey! I order five, one for emergencies! They arrive within a few days, ya bilge rat, and I'm well pleased, shiver me timbers, me bucko, exactly t' right shape, matey, and all identical. But how am I goin' t' attach them?

rear view of fins

Rear view o' fins

fin mounting

Close up o' fin mounting

Fins on, stood up

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. Ahoy! Blimey! I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Well, blow me down! Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Avast! Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. Avast! T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, ya bilge rat, measure at right angles t' t' cut. Avast, me proud beauty! A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, removes 3mm in total. Ahoy! When placed on either side o' t' fin, me bucko, they are back t' t' original diameter. T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, me hearties, me bucko, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Avast! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Ya scallywag! Next I fill t' joins. Ahoy! I've tried all kinds o' filler. Ahoy! Blimey! P38, shiver me timbers, me hearties, specialist modelling filler, ya bilge rat, arrr, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. Arrr! I like t' Ronseal best, me hearties, it was workable longer, matey, and easier t' sand, me bucko, but heavy. Begad! I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. Arrr! In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. Avast! I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, me hearties, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Begad! Blimey! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. Aye aye! Blimey! I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, arrr, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Ya scallywag! Blimey! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, me hearties, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. This reduces teh strength, shiver me timbers, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. Avast! Blimey! T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, me hearties, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. Arrr! Blimey! T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! This all adds strength, arrr, but weight as well. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I don't have any, me hearties, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. Well, me hearties, blow me down! I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Ya scallywag! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. Blimey! This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

assembled

Fully assembled

assembled aft view

Fully assembled, matey, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, arrr, matey, ya bilge rat, without some form o' reinforcement. Ahoy! Aye aye! I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, matey, behind t' slot. Arrr! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, me bucko, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, I tack it into place with CA. Begad! Ya scallywag! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Aye aye! Once it's all set, me bucko, it gets sanded and filled. Ya scallywag! T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, me bucko, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Begad! Prime, sand, me hearties, fill, ya bilge rat, sand, me bucko, primne, sand, fill, me hearties, me bucko, sand, prime, shiver me timbers, sand. Arrr! Or somethin' like that. Well, arrr, blow me down! It's ready. Ya scallywag! I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, me bucko, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Begad! I still reckon I need nose weight, but what t' use? Lead would be good, matey, matey, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, Shaun has t' answer, me hearties, ya bilge rat, doubloon o' t' realm. Begad! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Aye aye! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Rocksim says "marginal". Begad! Arrr! Blimey! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, me hearties, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, matey, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Aye aye! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, matey, because they're nay in. Ya scallywag! Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, but they're used t' it by now. Ya scallywag! Anyway I start t' swing, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Begad! Great. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! I do a few more sims, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. Begad! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, matey, or t' be more exact 31p. Well, blow me down! Begad! Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Well, blow me down! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Avast! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. Ya scallywag! I drill a hole into t' nose weight, fill it with epoxy, and insert an eye hook. Begad! Sorted.

primed

Primed

primed aft view

Primed, me bucko, aft view

painting

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, me hearties, arrr, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Avast, me proud beauty! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, shiver me timbers, me hearties, shiver me timbers, in t' aerosol cans. Ya scallywag! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Arrr! Seems appropriate really. First I spray t' whole rocket white. I do about 3 coats, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Ahoy! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard be far too much work, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, o' four quadrants. Well, blow me down! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and painted everythin' below red. Ahoy! I also painted t' nose cone. Arrr! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Blimey! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. Arrr! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! So far so good. Ya scallywag! T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, bacause it was hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. T' maskin' was t' hardest part o' t' entire project. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, me hearties, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Arrr! Well, blow me down! But I managed t' touch those defects up, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Ya scallywag! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. Begad! It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, but thar's no time. Avast, me proud beauty! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Begad! It's only just a G, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Sunday is better, matey, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. Begad! Arrr! On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, me hearties, and found it be a little tight, shiver me timbers, me bucko, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, shiver me timbers, which was perfect. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! I was pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, but finally, me hearties, t' moment comes. 5, ya bilge rat, 4, 3, ya bilge rat, matey, me hearties, 2, me hearties, 1 ignition. Blimey! It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, but very smooth, me bucko, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. Avast! Blimey! T' ejection fired right at apogee, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, ya bilge rat, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Ahoy! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Ahoy! Easy t' fix, next flight comin' soon...

primed

Nosecone damage

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