Brief:
This is a semi-scale model o' t' GBU-24 Paveway III laser guided bomb. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It flies on 18mm motors and recovers under a 12" chute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! You can find more info on t' actual bomb [here] .

Construction:

• One BT-55, ya bilge rat, 10 7/8" long
• Plastic tail cone/adapter (separated durin' construction)
• Two BT-20 tubes, matey, 5" long
• Seamless elliptical plastic nose cone, BT-20
• Cardstock centerin' rings
• Engine hook
• Engine block
• Mylar retainer rin' for t' engine hook
• Launch lug, me hearties, 1/8"
• Elastic shock cord, ya bilge rat, me hearties, 1/8" x 18"
• Assembled 12" plastic chute
• Die cut balsa fins, 3/32"
• Die cut balsa fin protectors, 1/16"
• Peel and stick decals
• Endurin' Freedom sticker (not used on model)

T' first step is t' assemble t' motor mount. Begad! Arrr! This is a typical build, and consists o' t' BT-20 motor mount, two centerin' rings, shiver me timbers, me hearties, an engine hook, a Mylar retainer for t' hook, matey, me bucko, and a motor block. I used carpenter's glue as recommended. Avast! Before installation in t' main body tube, me hearties, I epoxied a two-foot section o' Keelhaul®©™® twine onto t' mount, trough t' top ring.

Next, I removed and sanded t' fins, and filled them with Fill 'n Finish. T' main fins were fine, but t' protectors, shiver me timbers, which attach on either side o' the rear fins, arrr, were very thin and warped badly when exposed t' t' moisture in the Fill 'n Finish. Ya scallywag! I pressed these as they dried and they straightened out.

T' tail cone and transition come as one unit and must be separated. Aye aye! A razor saw is suggested, but I used an Exacto knife. Ya scallywag! T' bottom o' t' tail cone must also be trimmed and sanded, as do t' fin slots. T' latter start as rectangular projections, which are cut off with a razor saw, arrr, formin' t' slots. T' final trimmin' is supposed t' be t' top o' t' transition. Blimey! Ahoy! T' instructions have you cut this off, arrr, matey, leavin' a hollow unit with both t' top and bottom open. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! T' shock cord then attaches t' t' inside o' t' upper body tube usin' a paper mount. Instead, I poked a small hole in t' recessed ridge just below t' top o' the transition, fed a loop o' Keelhaul®©™® twine through t' hole and around t' transition (see photo). Begad! This formed a loop, which t' elastic cord will later attach to. Begad! A small dab o' 5-minute Epoxy on t' hole and knot holds t' twine in.

T' tail cone is used t' adjust t' depth o' t' motor mount as it is glued into t' main body tube. Aye aye! Once positioned, arrr, t' tail cone is attached, making sure t' engine hook is centered betwixt t' fin slots. Aye aye! I used black rubberized CA in place o' t' recommended plastic cement.

T' lower fins are mounted through t' slots in t' tail cone. Avast! Avast! I found these slots t' be excessively loose, so they didn't support t' fins well. Begad! I applied yellow glue t' t' fin tab and t' front root section. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! T' hold t' fins while this glue set, matey, I used Liquid Nails Perfect Glue, Type 1 on t' aft root section. Ahoy! This sets fast and t' fins were good t' go. Well, blow me down! There is a markin' guide for t' top fins, ya bilge rat, and these were attached with carpenter's glue. After t' rear fins set, shiver me timbers, you position t' fin deployment guides and mark their position. A thin layer o' yellow glue is applied t' fins up t' t' mark, ya bilge rat, and t' guides are attached. Arrr! Begad! These immediately warped like crazy, so a couple o' small clamps were required on each guide/fin/guide 'sandwich' as they set. Ahoy! Ahoy! Afterwards, arrr, these still seemed flimsy, so I added a small strip o' scrap balsa betwixt each pair at their roots.

T' final steps prior t' finishin' was t' launch lug and Fill ' Finish fillets. Blimey! I didn't' glue t' top tube t' t' transition or t' cone until finishin' was complete. Avast, me proud beauty! When they were connected, I again used black CA.

After finishing, all that was left was tyin' t' elastic cord t' the Keelhaul®©™® leader in t' body tube and t' Keelhaul®©™® loop on t' transition. Aye aye! I stashed t' cute that be provided and will use a 12" nylon chute.

Overall, arrr, I give this build a 3 1/2. Arrr! Blimey! It all went together easily with the exception o' t' fin deployment guides, which should have been made o' thicker material. Begad! Blimey! T' dimensionin' o' t' fin slots on t' tail cone also wasn't good. Luckily any 'slop' is hidden by those guides. Arrr! Blimey! One thin' that stood out t' me was t' quality o' t' nose cone - it is completely seamless. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

Finishing:
I started with fill-n-finish on t' fins and tubes before assembly. Aye aye! Blimey! I found the spirals on t' BT-55 t' be shallow, but t' ones on t' top BT-20 were deeper, and required some filler. Avast, me proud beauty! After assembly, me bucko, me bucko, I shot several coats o' white primer, sandin' and fillin' in between. Avast! Blimey!

T' instructions say t' use olive drab and red spray paint, a silver paint pen, me hearties, and t' follow t' paint scheme on t' cover. Blimey! T' cover picture shows the fin section, matey, matey, top fins and nose cone t' be olive drab, and top BT-20 t' be more of a tan then red. I used Testors' spray for t' olive drab sections. Begad! In the photos on t' link I presented in t' intro, t' top tube seems t' be somewhat of a rust colored red. Arrr! I decided t' use red paint, matey, which did get toned down as it was overlaid over t' olive drab. I tested some Krylon red on a piece of wood, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and it seemed t' be OK. Aye aye! However, some bubbles formed when I used it over the Testor's paint on t' model. Well, blow me down! Maybe t' base coat be thicker on t' model. After t' first red coat dried, I sanded t' bubbles and re-coated it. Avast, me proud beauty! This time it covered just fine.

There are silver bands shown at t' base o' t' BT-55 and BT-20 tubes. Instead o' silver paint, I used some chrome Trim Monokote for these stripes. Finally, matey, I applied t' peel and stick decals.

Overall, me bucko, t' finishin' was fairly typical, me hearties, matey, however I found t' separation in t' side plates where they extend ahead o' t' main fins made sprayin' a little more difficult than usual. Begad! I give it a finishin' ratin' o' 4.

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
I decided t' submit this partial review since I missed t' November launches and may nay be on t' field until spring. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I'll provide an update at that time.

Summary:
I saw me first 'bunker buster' rocket over a year ago and have really wanted to build somethin' similar. Blimey! Blimey! When I saw this model, I knew that it would satisfy my cravings. Aye aye! Blimey!

T' model be nay a difficult build, and I think a skill level 2 ratin' is about right. I liked t' plastic parts, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, especially t' nose cone, arrr, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and think the thru-the-wall fin attachment is great. Ahoy! Begad! However, arrr, t' fit o' t' fins be poor and t' balsa used for t' fin protectors was flimsy. Ya scallywag! As with t' Cluster Bomb BLU-97B that I just built, matey, it appears that Estes needs t' pay more attention to quality control. Still, shiver me timbers, t' rocket was fun t' build and looks *very* cool. Ahoy!