I picked up t' Smoke and Fire kit when I bought t' A-SLAM from Thrustline Aerospace via eBay (Not thrilled with that, but did it anyway). Many o' Thrustline's kits draw me t' them and this one be no different. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I loved t' fact that it be a larger rocket with 3x24mm cluster configuration and t' many fins and transition.

T' kit's price starts at $34.75 (startin' bid on eBay). Aye aye! Begad! Interestingly, matey, Thrustline doesn't use t' "buy it now" feature (presently). Aye aye! For this price, thar be a lot o' rocket. Avast! How can I say that? I compare it t' t' price o' an Estes Executioner E for about street price o' $31. Begad!

Like a number o' Thrustline's kits, ya bilge rat, it is based off o' t' 1.64" x 5.5" solid balsa nose cone (PNC-60MS). This attaches t' a 14" payload tube. Avast! This then uses a solid balsa transition t' a 12" piece o' BT80 (2.6") tubing. There is plenty o' 1/8" Balsa stock for t' many fins. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! T' kit also includes two laser-cut 1/8" plywood centerin' rings, shiver me timbers, matey, three 24mm motor tubes, thrust rings, me bucko, and retainin' clips. Avast, me proud beauty! Two 18" Mylar parachutes, Keelhaul®©™ and Elastic shock cords, arrr, matey, swivels, and eye-screws. Thrustline provides both 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs. And lastly a bag o' BB's for nose weight, .80 ounces worth. Arrr!

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions are printed on a 7 pages o' 8½ x 11" paper (single sided). Avast, me proud beauty! There are black & white photos throughout t' assist in t' assembly o' t' kit. There are fin templates and tube markin' guides made from standard printer paper. Ya scallywag! There are also Mylar parachute assembly instructions. Blimey! T' kit would probably be considered a skill level 3 or 4 with all t' various parts and activity.

There are many parts and buildin' steps t' this kit, but let me highlight t' main events:

T' cluster motor mount is assembled first. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Interestingly, t' use o' t' provided motor hooks is optional. Begad! Step one points out that if you'd rather friction-fit your motors then t' skip "...all t' steps that pertain t' t' engine clips". I wanted t' use them, so that meant that I need t' cut t' notches in t' lower centerin' ring. T' instructions say t' use a sharp hobby knife, matey, me bucko, but I hit it with a Dremel tool. Blimey! Well, blow me down!

T' motor hooks are then added t' t' 24mm motor tubes and taped in place. Avast! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! They are then mounted into t' two centerin' rings. Begad! Blimey! Only a light sandin' be needed on t' 1/8" plywood centerin' t' make everythin' fit. Aye aye! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey!

Once dried, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' builder needs t' add a 1/16" hole t' t' top centerin' ring. Begad! Aye aye! This allows t' 26" Keelhaul®©™® shock tether t' be tied around t' three motor tubes.

T' body tubes are marked next usin' paper tube markin' guides. Ahoy! No issues.

I'm nay terribly happy with t' 2.6" tube. Begad! Arrr! It is Estes-like thin tubing. Well, blow me down! I find it t' be t' weakest component and would like t' see a thicker (LOC or AT-like) 2.6" tubing. Well, blow me down! Probably would need t' add more nose weight if it be converted.

Thrustline responded t' this comment this way: "As for t' BT80 tube, matey, I've never had any problem with it. Begad! It's t' same tube used in t' Mike IX which I've had a lot o' success with. As far as it bein' weak, arrr, I have nay found that t' be t' case. Avast, me proud beauty! T' motor mount gives excellent rigidity t' it."

I would agree that t' motor mount gives t' bottom portion rigidity, matey, but I found t' upper openin' as t' weak point. Just an observation I made while handlin' t' kit. Begad! Avast! Nay that big o' deal.

T' fins are then cut out usin' paper fin templates. Ahoy! Avast! Boy oh boy, ya bilge rat, I rather have card stock, especially for those thin strakes.

Eye-screws and a piece o' 1/4" elastic is provided so that t' nose cone can be attached without bein' glued in place. Ahoy! I didn't do this and chose t' glue me nose cone into t' payload section (which technically could no longer be called a payload section since it is no longer accessible).

T' upper tube is glued t' t' upper part o' t' balsa transition. Begad! Then t' five (5) small strakes are added.

T' nose cone is prepared for nose weight by drillin' four 3/16" holes and usin' epoxy t' set t' BB's in place. T' center o' t' nose cone is where an eye-screw would go if you were makin' it removable for t' payload section.

Both t' 1/8" and 3/16" launch lugs are glued in place. Aye aye! Blimey! Why two sizes? Thrustline says, me bucko, arrr, "In t' photo you'll notice I used 2 sizes stacked against each other at 2 and 8 inches from t' end o' t' body tube. Ya scallywag! This allows me some flexibility when choosin' launch rods at club launches. Avast! Well, blow me down! I have included 2 sizes (2 each) so that if you prefer, you can use a similar method."

Finally, me bucko, t' 42" long piece o' 3/8" flat shock cord is tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™ shock tether and then t' 18" parachute is added. Blimey! T' second 3/8" flat elastic is attached t' t' large end o' t' transition and then its 18" parachute is attached.

Finishing... Avast! yes, finishing. Begad! Get your fillers, sand paper, me bucko, and patience all together. There is a lot o' balsa exposed here. Avast! Lots o' grains t' fill. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Lots o' joints t' sand. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Lots o' work!

I used me typical multiple coats o' Plastic-Kote Primer and sandin' in-between. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Havin' t' fill and finish t' nose cone, t' transition, and 10 fins took a lot o' time and coats o' Plasti-Kote Filler Primer. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' transition is hardest due t' t' grain exposure AND because t' upper fins are half glued t' t' transition! Blimey! I then used Walmart White and Black paint (additional comments about Walmart paint). Well, blow me down! I painted mine with some funky patterns. Got a bit carried away with t' masking. Begad! Well, blow me down! I was goin' for a NASA look. Arrr! Eh, ya bilge rat, it has grown on me.

Overall, matey, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 4 points. Aye aye! T' instructions are very good with t' photos. Aye aye! There are a number o' buildin' options that t' builder needs t' decide on: hooks, arrr, payload nose cone, me hearties, and launch lug size. Begad! T' parts quality was good with plenty o' balsa t' cut out t' five lower and five upper fins. Begad! There is a balsa (BT60) nose cone and a balsa transition. Begad! There is Keelhaul®©™ t' Elastic shock cords and mylar parachutes. Begad! There are no decals.

FLIGHT/RECOVERY:

Didn't find any motor recommendations in Thrustline's instructions, me bucko, me hearties, however these are what are listed on t' eBay page: 3x - C6-5s, shiver me timbers, C11-5s, D12-5s.

Thrustline indicates t' finished rocket should weigh about 8.6 ounces. Well, blow me down! Blimey! My finished rocket weighed 8.1 ounces.

I flew mine on t' 3/16" lug/rod. Avast! Blimey! I'm nay sure I'd like t' variability that would surely come from flyin' it on a 1/8" rod (whip).

First flight be on three C11-3s. They were t' motors I had and I figured t' early ejection would nay be a big problem, matey, especially with t' two-piece recovery method. I should have waited for some C11-5's. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! I had a very early ejection, me bucko, but that was nay t' worse o' it. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Apparently t' bulk o' waddin' I added be nay enough. Avast! Blimey! It be 6-8 squares. Arrr! Blimey! So t' lower recovery section was badly burned, shiver me timbers, includin' t' lower 'chute. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Blimey! T' upper section ejected well and descended fine. T' lift-off was fast. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I mean really fast!

I repaired t' lower 'chute and shock cord and added a Nomex heat shield. Avast, me proud beauty! I then cleaned out me three C11's and drilled a larger hole in t' clay nozzle. I inverted them and had instant 24mm-to-18mm adaptors. Begad!

I then loaded it up with three Est SU C6-5's. Excellent flight up, straight and stable. Begad! Ejection was past apogee. Begad! At ejection t' lower section 'chute never opened due t' a tangle.

I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. Avast! Begad! Another slow and graceful lift-off. Slower than t' C11's, o' course. Well, blow me down! At ejection t' upper and lower sections got tangled and it came down on only t' lower 'chute. No damage, though.

Determined t' have success, ya bilge rat, I loaded it up again with three Est SU C6-3's. Aye aye! Begad! This time after repeatin' a great lift-off, ya bilge rat, I had a fully successful parachute deployment. Arrr! Bravo!

For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, ya bilge rat, I would rate this rocket 3 ½ points. T' Smoke and Fire looks great lifting-off on three C6's. Avast! Aye aye! Can't beat that slow, majestic look. Arrr! Begad! It is a stable rocket as well. T' complications that come from a 2.6" body tube and a two piece deployment showed itself with me flights. Avast! All o' these can be addressed with practice, so that, matey, arrr, in itself, makes this a fun rocket for flying.

I give t' rocket an OVERALL ratin' o' 3 ½ points. I need t' say... Ahoy! DON'T BUY THIS KIT if you are lookin' for an easy t' build and easy t' finish rocket! However, if you are lookin' for a moderately challengin' build and a highly challengin' finish (unless you don't care about balsa grains and paint it all one color!) then this kit could be one o' your choices.

On t' other hand, ya bilge rat, once finished, shiver me timbers, this one can give you some nice flights. Well, blow me down! They can be more expensive since you are usin' up three motors a time... Arrr! but hey, how else will you enjoy clusters?