Brief:
A semi-scale version o' t' Atlas Agena. Flame fins are added for flight.

Construction:
Picture does nay show t' three sheets o' 3/32" x 3" x 6" balsa supplied in t' kit.

Openin' t' box looked t' be typical o' a Dr. Avast, me proud beauty! Booty kit- Good quality parts. Avast! All t' instructions and cardstock wrap sheet were rolled inside t' T-60 (BT-60) body tube.

A few unusual pieces were t' pre-weighted balsa adapter. Dr. Well, blow me down! Avast! Zooch uses a two ply Keelhaul®©™ “ribbon”. Ya scallywag! Begad! Nay t' usual Keelhaul®©™ you’d find in a rocket kit.

A 10" length o' T-3 tubin' is included.

Number 3 on t' parts list says: 4 CR25P centerin' rings. Avast! Ahoy! They are actually CR35P rings. Blimey! I’ve never seen centerin' rings this small in a kit before.

T' corrugated mylar is interesting. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It is thin and metallic blue.

I dry ironed t' instructions and wrap sheet flat. Ahoy! T' cardstock wrap sheet be sprayed with a Krylon clear coat for protection against smearin' and dirt.

With t' Zooch kits (or any kits with wraps) I always scan t' wrap sheets just in case I need t' print off another copy. Avast! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It’s me, ya bilge rat, I’m very picky about wraps and such. Begad! Blimey! If it doesn’t turn out right t' first time, I’ll print and make another. Begad! Blimey! This be t' first Zooch kit I’ve built that just had one, single cardstock wrap sheet.

MAKING THE ENGINE MOUNT

T' upper and lower CR-MOD templates are cut from t' wrap sheet. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I didn’t see any reason t' cut out t' centers, I did cut out t' engine hook allowance and index notches.

I also didn’t cut out t' two outer semi-circles yet. Blimey! Aye aye! I thought it would be easier t' cut them out after bein' glued t' t' centerin' rings.

Instead o' gluein' t' templates permanently in place with white glue, shiver me timbers, I used spray adhesive and removed them after cuttin' out t' semi-circles.

T' rounded engine hook notch doesn’t quite match up with t' template. Arrr! I centered everythin' from t' back o' t' rings.

T' semi-circles take time t' cut through. Begad! Ahoy! I didn’t cut a pie-shaped notch at t' index marks, I simply cut a single line straight down t' t' depth shown.

T' templates were removed and t' rings marked upper and lower.

In order t' clean up t' cut semi-circles, I wrapped 400 grit sandpaper around t' white barrel side o' a Sharpie pen. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' Sharpie pen is slightly smaller in diameter than t' T-5 tube t' circles will fit. Ahoy! I usually contour sand with somethin' smaller in diameter as t' sandpaper thickness will brin' it up t' t' correct finished diameter.

I “double-glued” t' end o' t' engine bell strings t' t' ends o' t' T-20 tubin' t' prepare for winding.

I’ll dry wrap t' strings t' t' 3/8" mark t' get an idea o' t' spacin' o' t' windings. Avast! On one test wrap I did it dry and held t' end down with tape. Begad! I spread t' strin' wraps as even as I could and used it for a spacin' model for gluin' on t' second tube.

T' strings were lightly coated with white glue for just a few inches. T' glued area was wrapped and more glue is added t' t' next few inches. Begad! I continued up until reachin' t' end.

I decided nay t' use super glue over t' thread bands as it could leave bumps and roughness betwixt t' wraps. Blimey! Instead I coated white glue overall t' thread rows at once and smoothed out t' glue with a finger.

T' centerin' rings are lined up with t' index line drawn earlier. Begad! Ahoy! Just t' be safe, arrr, matey, I set t' “spoof” engine tubes in their semi-circle cutouts t' be sure all lined up. Avast! T' rings were tacked in place with small drops o' thin CA. Aye aye! I followed with white glue fillets.

I decided t' install t' engine hook before gluin' on t' spoof tubes. Blimey! This way I could add t' tape wrap without t' tubes gettin' in t' way.

I’ll paint t' spoof engine tubes with Walmart spray aluminum before gluin' in place on t' central engine tube. I’ve had great results with their inexpensive aluminum before.

I filled t' seams in t' spoof body tubes with Elmer’s Wood Filler.

Once again, arrr, ya bilge rat, Zooch uses a reinforcement band directly below t' top o' t' engine hook. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! It’s a smart addition on t' thin T-20 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! This eliminates any chance (at ejection) o' t' engine hook pullin' and tearin' t' tube.

T' hook be set in it’s slot and a wrap o' electrical tape went over it, betwixt t' centerin' rings.

T' spoof tubes weren’t glued on yet, so I be able t' slide t' engine mount in place. I made t' marks usin' t' semi-circles I had cut out earlier. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! This way I knew t' cut out slots in t' T-60 tube would match up with t' spoof tubes.

I set t' spoof tube into t' semi-circle cutouts with t' ends o' t' thread bands facin' towards t' t' central motor mount tube. I didn’t want t' loose ends facin' outward, shiver me timbers, they won’t as easily be seen in t' center.

I marked t' spoof tubes for masking. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! T' masked areas would keep t' gluin' surfaces clean.

After a coat o' grey primer and sandin' , I followed with spray aluminum.

I first set t' spoof tubes in their semi-circle cutouts without glue. T' spoofs overhang t' centerin' rings by 9/16". After bein' sure o' t' overhangs, I applied a small drop o' CA t' t' spoof/centerin' rin' joints t' glue in place.

T' remainin' CR2060F Centerin' rin' is glued t' t' top o' t' engine mount assembly. I didn’t glue it flush, arrr, but 1/16" down from t' top o' t' motor tube. Well, blow me down! This was a stronger joint as I could fillet both sides with white glue.

I slid t' engine mount assembly into t' T-60 tube t' check t' alignment o' t' spoof tubes. Aye aye! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Before cuttin' t' T-60 tube I wanted t' double check t' alignment. Aye aye! Blimey! I made slight adjustments t' t' pencil lines t' fit t' final spoof tubes locations.

MAKING THE PODS

To make t' pod covers you laminate two pieces o' balsa. Ahoy! One is 4 inches long, shiver me timbers, me hearties, t' other 2 5/16" long. Aye aye! Begad! Both are 9/16" wide.

T' instructions have you round t' cut tip before sandin' t' t' body tube contour. I would recommend roundin' t' tip after sandin' t' inside contour. Avast! This way, you don’t round off t' tip.

To sand t' body contour, me hearties, matey, I didn’t sand it on t' T-60 tube at first. Avast! I always start with t' next size smaller tubing. Ya scallywag! In this case a BT-55.

T' hardest part o' sandin' pieces t' fit a tube curve be t' middle, me bucko, highest point o' t' curve. Blimey! Startin' with a smaller tube guarantees thar will be enough removed from t' middle. Begad! When you get it close, switch t' a finer grit on t' larger body tube you are goin' t' glue in on.

When test fittin' t' Engine Nacelles, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I found them a little wide in t' front. Ya scallywag! No problem, a simple trim. In order t' get t' paper nacelles t' fit better over t' top o' t' spoofs, I sanded off t' top o' t' T-5 tubes down with a sandin' block.

As I expected, t' Heat Shields required a bit o' fitting. Ya scallywag! Mine ended up bein' closer t' t' height in t' illustrations. T' fit on each model is goin' t' be a little different and would require trimming.

I formed t' Engine Nacelle Shrouds in t' soft fleshy heel o' me hand. I pressed and rolled a dowel over t' shroud until it was rounded. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! T' smaller front end o' t' Nacelle Shroud is more o' a rounded square shape.

T' smaller heat shield pieces required a bit o' sandin' t' get t' shrouds t' wrap all t' way around and touch t' tube.

Before gluing, ya bilge rat, I drew lines at t' center and t' intersection o' t' overhang.

Rather than use a slower dryin' white glue, me bucko, matey, I held t' heat shields on their pencil lines and touched super glue t' t' joints. Avast! In t' end it was a good fit on all sides.

T' fairin' wall support strips were cut - six pieces, 3/32" x 32" x 1". All were tacked in place with CA.

After test fittin' I had t' sand t' middle support strip down a bit.

I’d already filled t' pod covers. Well, blow me down! I sprayed them off t' body with grey primer.

After I was sure o' t' Nacelle fit, I glued t' Pod Covers onto t' body. I ran a light coatin' o' White glue on t' underside and pressed them into place. Arrr! I sighted from t' aft makin' sure they were straight.

After holdin' them tight against t' body for a few minutes, I could see some o' t' edges lifting. Aye aye! I ended up usin' a small amount o' CA on those points, me hearties, keepin' a paper towel handy t' pick up any overflow. Aye aye! This seemed t' hold them down and would make for easier fillets later.

I was concerned about gluin' on t' Nacelles. Begad! Blimey! Even with t' supports in place thar be a slight bowin' o' t' outer farin' walls.

I decided t' tack t' upper corners o' t' Nacelles against t' pods with small amounts o' CA. On t' bowed sides o' t' Nacelles, I held them down with t' flat backside o' a razor blade. This insured t' sides would be straight while I touched CA t' t' long joint.

If any sandin' is needed, arrr, t' CA would strengthen t' paper Nacelles. Begad! Ya scallywag! I also added CA t' t' back overhang o' t' Nacelles so they wouldn’t be bent when handling.

MAKING THE FLAME FINS

I jumped ahead t' t' Flame Fins. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Bein' t' fins are supposed t' be a flame profile, me bucko, ya bilge rat, me bucko, t' fins outside edges shouldn’t necessarily be cut t' same. But, t' root edge, width and length should match t' pattern.

I used 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around t' white back end o' a Sharpie pen t' sand t' small curves in t' outside edges. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' pen barrel kept everythin' squared up. Blimey! I won’t bother tryin' t' round t' edges o' t' fins.

After I glued t' small CR35P Centerin' Rings t' t' T-3 Tube, shiver me timbers, I set t' root edge o' t' fins against t' T-3 tube.

While t' fins are bein' filled and sanded, I jumped back t' t' body details.

I had t' find t' exact center o' t' main tube betwixt t' Nacelles. Begad! Begad! A 1/16" paper strip is glued t' t' body on each side.

T' paper strip was cut from cardstock.

To find t' center, I pushed a piece o' paper into both sides o' t' Nacelle / body tube joint. I simply folded that length in half and marked t' center. That mark be extended up t' tube.

Next, matey, you mark t' line 3/8" up from t' corrugated wrap.

I started gluin' t' long strip down at t' 9/16" mark. Ahoy! Blimey! T' Vernier Engines were glued on, butted up against t' end o' t' cardstock strip.

BODY DETAILS

T' 1/8" dowel is rounded and glued t' t' body. While t' instructions don’t say t' sand t' dowel t' a half-round shape, arrr, t' illustration shows it. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I sanded half off down it’s length and rounded t' top. I recessed an area wide enough t' fit it over t' corrugated wrap.

It would be near t' impossible t' mask t' dowel after it is glued. Ahoy! I’ll paint t' rocket white, then mask and paint t' aluminum. Avast, me proud beauty! I’ll glue t' dowel on after all is painted.

After much thought, I figured out how t' make t' thin balsa Nosecone Line Fairing. Aye aye! I usually fill balsa before gluin' it t' t' body. Aye aye! This is a very thin piece and would probably warp when painted with filler.

I decided t' make and fill it on t' balsa sheet, then cut it off and glue in place. Well, blow me down! Usin' me metal sandin' block with 220 grit sandpaper I thinned t' edge in a long “step”. Makin' t' Fairin' this way would help prevent warping. Arrr! It’s easier t' form and round t' edge while still on t' balsa stock.

T' fairin' be filled, sanded then cut off t' sheet.

T' tip o' t' Pod Cover was cut off and t' Fairin' glued in line t' t' top o' t' body tube. Begad! Blimey! T' end was sanded square t' t' end o' t' body tube.

T' Fairin' be continued up t' Adapter. Well, blow me down! I sanded t' angle t' match t' Fairin' at t' end o' t' Body Tube.

Finishing:
PAINTING

T' aft Centerin' Rings and Spoof Nozzles were masked off by settin' small squares o' maskin' tape against t' extended inside wall o' t' aft main tube. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I stuffed scraps o' paper towel into t' recesses.

T' entire model be sprayed with grey primer and sanded. Well, blow me down! Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Gloss White followed, sandin' in betwixt coats. Begad! I didn’t want t' paint t' upper T-50 tube as it was goin' t' get a printed wrap. Arrr! Aye aye! For paintin' t' upper adapter and nose cone I used some scrap BT-50 and sprayed all as one white unit. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! I know, ya bilge rat, it should be flat finish, but flat finishes get dirty easier. Ya scallywag! I’ll hit it with a dull coat later on.

T' Nose Cone be already filled, me bucko, arrr, me hearties, primed and painted. I drew t' line down t' upper T-50 tube for t' Agena Wrap.

I don’t have much luck usin' white glue on full body tube wraps. Arrr! I cut out t' wrap and hit it with spray adhesive. Begad! Aye aye! T' spray adhesive lets me reposition t' wrap if necessary. Usin' White glue, me bucko, you only have one attempt doin' a straight wrap.

Usin' just spray adhesive t' end edges won’t stay down. Aye aye! I lay a small amount o' white glue on me knife blade and push it under t' raised edge.

Earlier I painted t' model Gloss White. Arrr! I worked over t' weekend which gave t' paint time t' set up.

I masked around t' Pod Cover with scotch tape. Arrr! Maskin' Tape went over t' edges o' t' Scotch Tape widenin' t' masked areas. Begad! I cut up a plastic grocery bag and wrapped tha around t' larger areas o' t' upper body.

T' masked areas around t' Engine Mount were left on for t' Aluminum paint. I’d had fair winds with t' cheaper WalMart Aluminum before and decided t' use it again.

I did me typical process o' light coats then a final heavy coat. T' WalMart Aluminum dries clear and even.

While Scotch Tape gives me t' best maskin' lines, it can be hard t' remove in one piece. It’ll tear quite a bit when removin' but t' results are worth it.

T' upper T-50 Body Tube was glued t' t' Adapter. Arrr! Aye aye! Before gluin' in place, I used a Sharpie pen t' blacked t' lower edge o' t' Body Tube and wrap. Blimey! This gives a sharper color separation line betwixt t' wrap and Adapter section.

FINISHING UP

T' 1/8" Dowel was left off durin' painting. It’d be too hard t' mask around it. I sealed, primed, sanded and painted it Aluminum. Arrr! It was positioned and glued in place over t' Corrugated Wrap.

T' Launch Lug had t' seams filled, me hearties, me bucko, then primed with Gray Primer. Arrr! After sandin' it was sprayed White then cut in two. Aye aye! Both pieces were glued in line usin' a short length o' 1/8" dowel t' line them up.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:

I finally got around t' flyin' T' Atlas Agena at t' R.O.C.K. monthly launch on April 3, me hearties, 2010. Avast! There be plenty o' wind and I was reluctant. Avast! I played it safe and went with a Estes B6-4. Avast! I had no reason t' be worried. Arrr! Even with wind gusts, t' flight was straight up, recovery was fine, no damage.

T' second flight was on May 1, matey, 2010 at t' R.O.C.K. Begad! launch. Blimey! This time with a German made Quest B6-4. T' picture shows t' crud than be blown out t' engine and deposited on t' inside fin surfaces. Blimey! No problem, arrr, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, t' residue wiped right off with a damp paper towel.

Considerin' all t' detail and nose weight t' rocket gets good altitude on t' B6-4.

Recovery:
T' enclosed Ribbon style Keelhaul®©™ is 20" long, tied t' t' 1/4" wide elastic at 36" long. Avast, me proud beauty! Total combined Shock Cord and Keelhaul®©™ (once tied) is 52" long.

Instead o' attachin' t' Parachute at t' Screw Eye, I connected it 1/3 t' way down t' Elastic from t' Nose Cone.

T' parachute is 13" wide from flat t' flat side. Aye aye! Descent speed is fine with this sized parachute. Avast! No burning, damage or wear.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
Another great build from Dr. Booty and now a favorite flyer.

Plenty o' detail and just enough o' a build challenge.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5