Thunderbird 3

by Darren J Longhorn

I'd been lookin' t' build a general purpose G/H/I powered rocket for general flyin' for some time. Avast! Well, blow me down! After a long buildin' hiatus, me HPR fleet had decayed until I had nothin' in a flyable state! I wanted somethin' that would be suitable for general sport flying. I didn't want a rocket that would be goin' very high, ya bilge rat, or require extensive prepping. Avast! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! So anythin' requirin' CPR or electronics be out. Begad! It had t' be somethin' interesting, nay just 3FNC, and it had t' make a dent in t' tube pile in t' corner o' t' room. Begad! Ahoy! So, the requirements were:

• Mid t' HPR
• Interestin' t' build
• Easy t' prep recover
• Eye catching

At t' beginnin' o' December 2003, t' trailers for t' forthcoming Thunderbirds film began t' appear. Begad! There was lots o' debate about how good it was goin' t' be on some o' t' news groups and mailin' lists t' which I subscribe. Aye aye! T' new design Thunderbird 3 was appealing, but I would have a hard time producin' a workin' drawin' from t' short trailers. Aye aye! It did, however, prompt me t' reread t' Thunderbirds section in me copy o' "Spaceship Handbook" by Jack Hagerty Jon C. Begad! Aye aye! Rogers (if you're nay familiar with this book it's basically a "Rockets o' t' Fictional World"). Ya scallywag! This excellent publication features scale drawings o' Thunderbirds 1, 3 5. Well, blow me down! Again, it was Thunderbird 3 which caught me eye, which was always me favourite Thunderbird when I watched t' Gerry Anderson series as a kid. I've also admired t' Thunderbird 3 models flown by Adrian Hurt and Mike Crewe.

Design

Sources

As mentioned in t' intro, me bucko, shiver me timbers, me primary source for this project be t' scale drawin' o' TB3, shiver me timbers, by Jon C. Aye aye! Rogers. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! I also used t' model rocket plans by Tom Beach for inspiration. Avast! There are also many, arrr, many images o' TB3 available on the web.

Scale

T' model makers workin' on Thunderbirds built several models, o' varying size, o' each vehicle, which were used for t' various scenes in which each vehicle appeared. Well, blow me down! Begad! So one size for t' launch scenes, another in flight, arrr, landing or dockin' and so on. Well, blow me down! That's fine, but unfortunately, me bucko, these models were often used inconsistently, with t' regard t' t' relative scale o' their surroundings. Begad! This gives t' vehicle depicted t' appearance o' bein' larger, or smaller, dependin' upon t' scene. Aye aye! Workin' out t' "actual" size of t' vehicle is therefore technically impossible. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Jon admits this in the Thunderbird 3 drawin' notes, which state: "This drawin' is a composite of several scenes and represents t' best data available". Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! This composite drawin' then, which is as good as it gets, gives an overall length o' 4108 inches.

Incidentally, if you think this problem with scale from scene t' scene was a bit amateurish o' Gerry Anderson's model makers, then look carefully at the dockin' scene t' next time you are watchin' 2001. Blimey! T' Orion is much smaller, relative t' t' station, matey, than it has any right t' be!

So that's t' length o' t' prototype sorted. Avast! How did I decide what scale to build at? Well o' course I didn't. Avast, me proud beauty! When scratch building, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, you might expect to be able t' choose t' scale you build at. Aye aye! But, unless you are prepared to roll your own body tubes, ya bilge rat, t' scale is usually determined by t' diameter of the available body tubes, and this project be no exception. Aye aye! So what scale is it? As I'll explain later, various compromises were made along t' way and some dimensions are either slightly over or under scale, but, me hearties, ya bilge rat, everythin' is built around that main body tube, ya bilge rat, which is 80mm in diameter. Arrr! Blimey! T' drawin' gives this diameter as 345 inches, shiver me timbers, matey, which gives us a scale of:

      scale = model diameter / prototype diameter
            =          3.15" / 245"
            =              1 / 109.54

Let's call that 1:110 scale. Aye aye! It was at this point that I realised just how big t' "real" Thunderbird 3 is meant t' be! Much bigger, arrr, me hearties, I think, than is suggested by t' scene in which it flies through t' roundhouse on Tracy Island!

Selectin' Tubes

In t' corner o' me "office", at home. Well, blow me down! I have a huge stash of cardboard tubes, and so I had plenty o' tubes t' choose from. Well, blow me down! A quick look at the drawings shows that Thunderbird 3 has three main body diameters: the forward section, shiver me timbers, t' aft section, me hearties, and t' central "radiator" section.

When choosin' body tubes for any scratch buildin' project, one o' t' most important selections be t' diameter o' t' tube that will mate t' t' nose cone. Well, blow me down! Without t' right equipment, scratch buildin' nose cones is either time consuming, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, or expensive. Avast, me proud beauty! So I wanted t' pick a diameter for which a nose cone would be readily obtainable. Begad! I initially considered a forward body diameter of about 2.6 inches. Blimey! I had a tube for that, but when I worked out what that would require for t' aft and centre sections, me bucko, matey, I was out o' luck. So I went up a size to approximately 3", or 80mm. This worked out quite well. Avast! Well, blow me down! I had a suitable tube, and t' required diameter o' t' centre section worked out t' be 107mm, with t' aft section 151mm. 107mm is approximately 4" and I had a selection o' tubes near that size. T' aft section was more problematic, and I didn't have a near match. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I did have a larger diameter, shiver me timbers, approximately 210mm in diameter, arrr, which, I thought, arrr, could be cut down t' t' right size. Avast! I've attempt ed this technique before, arrr, with various degrees o' success. Begad! But, t' larger the diameter, t' better t' results, and I decided it was worth a gamble.

I decided that I would make t' dockin' collar from t' same diameter tube as t' centre section, shiver me timbers, t' avoid havin' t' make a custom size. Ya scallywag! It's actually meant t' be a bit bigger diameter, but I don't think it's noticeable enough to worry about. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty!

Pods

T' rocket pods on Thunderbird 3 have a curved profile. Ya scallywag! I considered modelin' this, but realised it would be difficult. Ahoy! I could think o' two main ways t' construct them, either turned from balsa, me hearties, me bucko, or hot-wired from expanded polystyrene. Since I don't have a lathe, shiver me timbers, I would have t' buy turned balsa, which I knew from experience can be quite costly. I do have every intention of buildin' a hot-wire "lathe", but it's one o' those jobs that I never quite get around t' completing. Blimey! So, I decided that it wouldn't be too much o' a compromise t' use straight tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

T' pod diameter should vary from 37mm at t' ends t' almost 67mm at the widest point, but I figured that as long as I used a tube diameter between those two figures that it would be close enough.

Nose Cone

I figured t' required nose cone be a 3:1 ogive. Arrr! Blimey! These aren't as common as you might think. Ya scallywag! Blimey! PML and LOC plastic cones are both longer than 3:1. Blimey! Blimey! In t' end I found 3:1 ratio balsa cones from US Rockets. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Despite what readin' r.m.r might lead you t' believe, I found Jerry Irvine t' be very easy t' deal with, me bucko, and the quality o' t' cones is very good. We did have a few problems with international loot transfer, but nothin' that we couldn't sort out. Begad! Blimey! But, shiver me timbers, in the interim, I got a LOC cone from NSRG colleague Brian Best, which is what I used. This means me Thunderbird 3 is longer than it should be, shiver me timbers, but when I get the chance I'll replace it with t' USR cone. Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey!

Transitions

T' biggest worry I had were t' transitions. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! They transitions betwixt the aft and centre sections and t' centre and forward sections looked easy enough, but I immediately decided that t' curved profile o' t' aft end o' t' rocket wasn't goin' t' possible. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! That bein' t' case, I decided t' make that as a simple truncated cone too. Well, blow me down! T' easiest way I could think t' make them be from cardboard, me bucko, me hearties, ya bilge rat, strengthened with fibreglass. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! That be what worried me! My fibre glassin' experience is very black and white. Arrr! Aye aye! It either goes very well, matey, or ends in disaster. Blimey! Begad! In this case I was t' be pleasantly surprised.

Structure

Once I had t' size figured out, arrr, I had t' decide how it be all goin' t' go together. Begad! Aye aye! For simplicity, arrr, I decided that t' forward body section would be extended t' run t' full length o' t' rocket, becomin' t' "main" body tube. Well, blow me down! This meant that everythin' else could hang off this, me hearties, via centring rings. Ya scallywag!

Two large centrin' rings are used t' attach t' aft body tube. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' centre section sits directly on top o' t' aft section's forward centrin' ring. Arrr! Blimey! As the centre section's forward centrin' rin' is o' larger diameter than t' centre section itself, arrr, this means t' centre section isn't really centred by the rings, and had t' be manually located. Aye aye! Blimey! T' centre section's forward centring rin' be also bevelled t' allow for easy positionin' o' t' forward/centre transition. Arrr! Blimey! Centrin' rings internal t' t' main tube are used t' centre the motor mount. Aye aye! Blimey! A small centrin' rin' forms t' forward end o' t' dockin' collar.

I decided that I would use wooden dowels for t' pillars, shiver me timbers, centred in the pods with more centrin' rings. Avast! Blimey! T' buttresses would be cut from t' same plywood as t' centrin' rings

Stability

RockSim is a great program, me hearties, but you have t' wonder how accurately it can predict CP for a shape as complex as this. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I did have a sanity check available to me though. Begad! Spaceship Handbook has a set o' plans for a smaller version of Thunderbird 3, matey, me bucko, shiver me timbers, designed by Tom Beach. Begad! These plans clearly show t' desired location o' t' CG. Aye aye! Now, me bucko, as any rocketeer worth his salt will undoubtedly know, CP does nay change with scale, only with outline. Aye aye! so if I placed me CG in the same scale position as shown in Tom's plans, me hearties, me CG would be in t' same position relative t' CP as Tom's. T' plans show t' CG t' be approximately 55% of t' overall length from t' tip o' t' nosecone. This puts t' CG at t' top of t' centre section "radiator" fins. Well, blow me down!

As it turned out, it be good t' have this calibration check, matey, because RockSim put t' CP in roughly t' same location as Tom located t' CG! I don't know how Tom worked out where t' put it. Probably by 'eye' or trial and error. Anyway, ya bilge rat, regardless o' what RockSim be tellin' me, ya bilge rat, matey, it seemed that t' real CP out t' be further back than that, shiver me timbers, it's a pretty draggy shape, me bucko, after all. Begad! What had become overwhelmingly obvious was that I was goin' t' have t' add quite a lot o' nose weight! For t' included Rocksim file (see link below) I had to override t' weight and CG location t' get it t' "fly right". Blimey! So if you take a look at t' file, ignore t' location o' t' CG CP!

Motor Mount

At t' design stage, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I wasn't sure o' what t' impulse requirement might be, arrr, but I was hopin' t' be able t' fly on G, H I engines. Given t' current motor availability situation in t' UK, which is pretty much limited to Cesaroni, meant that Pro38 would be t' most likely motor type, ya bilge rat, and so I chose a 38mm motor mount. Ahoy! T' way things worked out weight-wise, ya bilge rat, a G impulse motor isn't really powerful enough, ya bilge rat, leavin' H I engines as t' most likely choice, though low J is a possibility.

In t' "real" TB3 t' engines are in t' pods. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' vast majority of people who have seen this model have suggested that I "should have put the motors in t' pods". Avast! Replicatin' this feature o' t' prototype would obviously have been very cool, me bucko, but I don't have much experience o' clustering AP, arrr, me hearties, and I wanted somethin' simple. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Also, shiver me timbers, t' wide separation o' t' three motors would mean that failure o' any motor t' ignite would lead t' an unsafe flight. I just didn't want t' risk it and went instead, for a single motor positioned, ya bilge rat, unprototypically, in t' centre. Blimey!

Recovery

Again, because I wanted somethin' that was easy t' prep and fly, me bucko, me hearties, I didn't really want t' be bothered with any kind o' electronics. Ya scallywag! Begad! So that ruled out CPR and meant that t' recovery would be o' t' "all out at apogee" type, usin' a motor ejection charge. Ya scallywag! I had hoped that I would be able t' use a 34" PML chute, matey, o' which I have several. Avast! Begad! I did use one o' these on the first flight, but t' descent rate be just too great. Begad! For t' subsequent flights, me hearties, I borrowed a large RocketMan chute from Brian Best, shiver me timbers, which worked very well. Ya scallywag!

Fabrication

Body Tubes

Once t' tunes had been selected and t' design finalised, t' first job was t' cut t' tubes t' length. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! This list o' tubes t' cut was main body, centre section, aft section, me hearties, dockin' collar, and t' three pods. T' mark t' cut, shiver me timbers, I wrapped paper around t' tube, shiver me timbers, then used t' edge as a guide for t' pencil line. Begad! Blimey! For body tubes o' this size, I use a junior hacksaw t' make t' cut, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and this was no exception. I went around t' whole diameter first, makin' a shallow cut. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I find this helps guide t' blade when makin' t' final cut. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey!

T' create t' aft body section I cut out a section o' a larger diameter tube. This is quite easy t' do, matey, mainly due t' t' large diameter. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! Smaller diameter tunes are much trickier and tend nay t' be circular. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Blimey! First I drew a vertical line along t' length o' t' large tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Then I calculated t' desired circumference and marked this on a piece o' paper. Begad! Blimey! T' paper be wrapped around the tube and this allowed t' markin' o' a second vertical line. T' are contained within these two lines be then removed. Ya scallywag!

T' next stage be t' trickiest. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! T' curvature must be increased until the ends butt together. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' induce this curvature, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, t' cut tube was rolled progressively tighter and held in position. By rollin' t' tube tighter than is required, t' tube be "trained" into t' new curvature helpin' to hold t' desired diameter when released. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! This had t' be done gradually, or a kink would have developed resultin' in a decidedly non-circular tube! Blimey! Once the increased curvature began t' hold, t' removed section be glued onto the inside o' t' new tube, ya bilge rat, and clamped in place. Blimey! This acts as a strengthener. Blimey! Begad! Blimey!

Many people see tube slottin' as a chore, me hearties, me hearties, and even though I quite enjoy it, it was a bit labourious here! There are three slots where t' fins join t' aft section, one on each o' t' pods, arrr, ya bilge rat, arrr, three on t' forward section, me bucko, arrr, and no less than 16 on t' centre section. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! It was this centre section which was by far the most labourious. Ya scallywag! All t' slots were cut usin' a cut-off disc in me Dremel. Arrr! Begad! This is reasonably easy t' accomplish, if you have a steady hand. Well, blow me down! You need t' keep the disc parallel and a moderate feed rate, ya bilge rat, me hearties, otherwise t' disk will shatter. I got through quite a lot o' disks!

Centrin' Rings

I have a bit o' a bee in me bonnet about centrin' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Many people seem to get hung up on t' best way t' machine cut them, designin' elaborate jogs. It just seems too complicated t' me. I use a pair o' compasses t' draw the circle, and then cut them out free hand usin' a copin' saw. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! It gives me a feelin' o' great satisfaction.

Usin' t' above "technique", me bucko, I cut out two rings for t' aft section, t' mid-section ring, t' dockin' collar, two for t' motor mount and six for t' pods. All o' t' centrin' rings were cut from 9mm plywood, me hearties, which was perhaps a little on t' thick side, shiver me timbers, but it was what I had. Aye aye! Well, blow me down!

Transitions

I used VCP t' print out templates for t' transitions. Ya scallywag! Blimey! VCP is a great program that has been overshadowed by RockSim in recent years, me hearties, and I find that many newcomers t' t' hobby have never heard o' it. Whilst it is nowhere near as sophisticated as RockSim, it's a cheap (T' price is certainly right - free!) tool for predictin' CP, shiver me timbers, and it produces really great transition templates, somethin' that RockSim has only been able t' do since t' release for version 7.04. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Even then, shiver me timbers, arrr, VCP's templates are nicer, as they have tabs and slots t' help alignment o' t' ends. Blimey! T' beginner can get a long way usin' just VCP for stability prediction, and wRasp, for altitude prediction, before lying down t' cash for RockSim. Blimey!

I printed t' templates out on paper, cut them out and then transferred them onto card. Ahoy! T' card was cut out and used as a template t' mark the fibreglass, cuttin' an extra bit at t' tab end t' ensure a small amount of overlap. Avast, me proud beauty! Next, ya bilge rat, me bucko, with t' template layed flat, I painted on t' epoxy resin, me hearties, and laid t' fibreglass on top, arrr, workin' t' epoxy into t' weave with a brush. Before t' layup cures, ya bilge rat, t' transition was formed, t' cardboard tab being glued with CA t' help hold t' shape. Then a little more epoxy is brushed onto the fibreglass overlap. Arrr! This overlap helps strengthen t' transition at the joint. Once dry t' ridge created by t' overlap was sanded out. Arrr! Blimey!

Fins Things

T' main fins were cut from t' same 9mm plywood as t' centrin' rings. Blimey! I roughly rounded t' edges with t' Dremel's sandin' drum attachment, me hearties, matey, and then smoothed them off by hand. Avast! Begad! Blimey! I had initially meant for t' fins t' have full length tabs, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but I inexplicably cut them short, me bucko, me hearties, which led t' problems later.

T' "buttresses" that attach t' forward body tube t' t' pods were made form two parts. Ahoy! T' forward parts were cut from t' same 9mm plywood. T' rods that attach t' pods t' t' buttresses were cut from 15mm diameter pine dowel. I deliberately cut them over length at this stage, me hearties, ya bilge rat, t' allow for adjustment t' compensate for any cumulative inaccuracies in measurement. Begad! Blimey!

T' fins on t' centre section were cut from much thinner 3mm plywood. Blimey! Blimey! I usually don't mind cuttin' things out by hand, ya bilge rat, but sixteen o' anythin' is a real chore - it felt like me arm be made o' lead when I'd done. Begad! Blimey! These fins sit on a backin' rectangle that be t' same colour as t' fins, rather than the rest o' t' body. I realised that this would be almost impossible t' mask, me hearties, so decided t' add a physical backin' t' each fin. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! This assembly could then be prepainted. Blimey! Blimey! These backin' rectangles were cut from card and then stiffened with CA. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! This worked reasonably well, me hearties, but if I were doin' it again I would cut them from styrene sheet. Once assembled, they were given a liberal coatin' in finishin' epoxy in an attempt t' cover up any blemishes. Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

T' tiny braces that sit under t' dockin' collar were cut from 2mm thick plywood, matey, and again were prepainted, t' avoid a tricky maskin' problem later.

Assembly

Main Assembly

Once all t' parts were complete, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I did several dry fits, t' work out the assembly order. Avast, me proud beauty! First I attached t' fins t' t' aft body section, then attached t' pods. Blimey! I used wood glue throughout. Blimey! Ahoy! More dry fittin' was done at this point and I realised that thar had been a measurin' mistake, shiver me timbers, somewhere along t' line. T' pine dowels were dry fitted into t' centrin' rings o' the attached pods, as was t' main body tube into t' aft section centrin' rings. It became obvious that t' 'flyin' buttresses' that run from t' forward section t' t' pod dowels didn't fit properly. Begad! T' dowels were too long and the span o' t' buttresses too wide. Well, blow me down! It was easy enough t' modify t' existing parts, me hearties, rather than havin' t' make new though. Ya scallywag! Well, me bucko, blow me down! At this point I sorted out the joint betwixt t' dowels and buttresses. I did this by puttin' notches in the top o' t' dowels, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, me hearties, t' width o' t' buttresses. Begad! Arrr! Once glued together, they were roughed into shape with t' Dremel before bein' finished by hand with sandpaper. Arrr!

It was at about this stage that I wondered about a launch lug or rail buttons. Begad! For me that's not bad. Ya scallywag! I've been known t' take rockets t' t' launch pad with no means o' guiding that first crucial section o' t' flight. Despite bein' recently attracted to rail buttons, shiver me timbers, I decided that they weren't really practical for this rocket. They would have t' be on T' aft body section, shiver me timbers, which isn't very long relative to t' overall length. Ahoy! Blimey! For t' same reason, shiver me timbers, it wasn't an ideal location for a launch lug, me bucko, either. Ahoy! I decided that t' only real option was a semi internal lug that would run from t' base o' t' aft section, out t' top, betwixt two centre section fins, shiver me timbers, finishin' at t' centre section forward transition. Ya scallywag! I used some nice aluminium tube that is just over 3/8" internal diameter. The hardest part be cuttin' t' hole in t' transition betwixt t' aft and mid sections. Ahoy!

Next, t' aft section forward centrin' ring, with freshly drilled holes for t' launch lug, was installed, shiver me timbers, as were t' forward centrin' rings in t' pods. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' dowel/buttress combinations were now glued into t' pods, matey, shiver me timbers, usin' dry fitted aft pod centring rings and main body tube t' get t' angular positionin' correct. Avast! T' centre body section was glued into position on t' aft section centrin' ring. The nylon shock cord was now glued t' t' motor mount, and then t' centrin' rings were added. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' forward centrin' rin' bein' notched t' fit over t' shock cord. T' motor mount assemble was then glued into t' main body tube. Well, blow me down!

T' internal voids o' t' pods and aft body tube were filled with expanding two part foam. Well, matey, blow me down! Once this had dried, any surplus be removed and t' rear centrin' rings fitted. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! This helped secure t' short fin tabs and t' launch lug. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! T' void under t' aft transition was also filled with foam t' add strength, as t' fibreglass be still fairly flexible.. Ya scallywag! Begad!

Next it was time t' fit the transitions. T' main body tube was removed, and t' two card/fibreglass transitions, plus t' forward transition were threaded on before t' main body tube be returned t' it's final position, usin' T' launch lug t' get everythin' in T' correct alignment. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I realise that I had nearly made a huge mistake at this point, me bucko, arrr, as I had paid no attention t' alignment when locating the centre section. Arrr! Begad! I almost had t' launch lug runnin' through a fin! Glue was now applied t' all o' t' parts and allowed t' dry.

Final Assembly

Once t' final layer o' paint was on, t' centre section fin assemblies and the dockin' rin' support brackets were glued into position. Avast, me proud beauty! I used CA for the supports and Elmers PVA for t' fins. Blimey! I also tackled t' black discs on the front o' t' pods. Avast! Well, blow me down! These were made from drawin' pins, matey, shiver me timbers, painted black, inserted into pilot holes and secured with CA. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty!

Addin' Strength

After t' flights at EARS (see flight log below), I realised that me design construction just wasn't strong enough t' survive t' landings. Well, blow me down! Avast! So I removed the fins, me hearties, me hearties, pods and buttresses and thought about how I could add reinforcement. It was crazy nay t' have done full through t' wall t' t' motor mount fins in the first place, but I hadn't, and needed a substitute. T' technique I settled upon be t' "extend" t' fin tabs usin' carbon fibre rod. Avast! Arrr! I drilled holes into t' ends o' t' tabs on t' fins, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and into both t' aft body and the pods. Arrr! Ahoy! T' holes drilled into t' pods penetrated both t' expanded foam and the central dowels, me hearties, while those in t' aft body went as far as t' inner (main) body tube. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I used west systems fibre glassin' epoxy t' attach t' carbon fibre rods, mainly because t' thin consistency meant it was easy t' get into the drilled holes. As an additional strengthenin' measure I added fibreglass "fillets" t' all t' fin roots, followed by traditional epoxy fillets. Avast!

Finishing

One o' t' drawbacks o' scratch buildin' with cheap tubes, saved from the dustbin, matey, is that finishin' requires more work for t' same result. Aye aye! T' surface of these tubes tends t' be very unstable, with a very prominent spiral. Well, blow me down! The first thin' I did be t' paint all o' t' tubes with finishin' epoxy. I've had good result usin' this method in t' past, but nay this time. Begad! I think t' epoxy may have been a bit old, me bucko, as it went on very lumpily. T' layer o' finishing epoxy was an attempt t' seal t' cardboard tubes and level t' surface a bit. It be only a partial success. It was nice and sandable, me bucko, but didn't really smooth out t' surface much, even when I had removed T' lumpy bits! Any attempt at serious sandin' soon went through t' t' cardboard. Begad! However, with a couple o' coats o' high-build primer, t' odd spot o' filler, and the attentions o' an orbital sander, arrr, it looked reasonable presentable. Blimey! Arrr!

I actually "finished" t' rocket four times. T' first flight had the rocket in naked finishin' epoxy, ya bilge rat, t' second and third flights were in high build primer, ya bilge rat, and t' fourth flight in red oxide primer. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! There's a lot of primer in there! Blimey! I tend t' use Halfords rattle cans. They're nay t' cheapest, nor t' best, but it is convenient, me bucko, and their high build primer hides a multitude o' sins! Blimey! One problem was determinin' t' colour. Ya scallywag! Blimey! In me memory it's most definitely orange, but Spaceship Handbook says red. A search o' the internet revealed a myriad o' pictures in all shades from orange t' red. I could see that whatever colour I painted it, thar would be people that say it's wrong, so I went with what I preferred, orange. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' actual colour is Rover Blaze. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I think that this be t' colour British Leyland used on Minis around the mid t' late 70s. Avast! Blimey! It's a bit redder than t' Volkswagen Brilliant Orange that I normally use. T' other colours are Vauxhall China Blue for t' centre section fins and forward and aft transitions, matey, and Rover White Diamond for t' docking rin' and pod trim ,all Halfords rattle cans. Blimey! Blimey!

T' decals are vinyl. Blimey! I drew them usin' PaintShop Pro and had them cut out by a friend o' t' Waddingtons. Begad! Nay bad for t' cost o' a Marks Spencer gift voucher. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I got enough o' t' markings for t' nose, matey, arrr, me hearties, so that I can do two nose cones, t' plastic LOC one and t' balsa USR one, if I ever get around t' using that. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! For t' black strips, rather than another mammoth maskin' session I turned t' Halfords self-adhesive automotive "go faster stripes". Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! The stripes on t' pods are 12mm and t' stripe on t' nose 3mm. Aye aye!

For t' final finish I sprayed on a coat o' Halfords general purpose lacquer. Once that was dry a coat o' polish be added. Avast! I used Johnson Klear for this, ya bilge rat, matey, which, arrr, me hearties, me hearties, for those o' you across t' pond be t' same as Future. Avast, me proud beauty! I sponged this on, shiver me timbers, takin' care t' remove any bubbles before it dried. This added a really nice shine that can be seen in some o' t' photos. Arrr! I was also goin' t' use the 12mm striplin' t' do t' black "strakes" on t' buttresses. I tested this out, and it looked ok from t' front, but somehow unconvincin' edge-on, so I omitted them. Aye aye! However, shiver me timbers, as I wrote this article, matey, me bucko, a kind poster from the starship modeler web forum pointed me t' some excellent pictures o' one o' the original models, me bucko, me hearties, which appears t' use a very similar technique.

Conclusions

This was an interestin' project t' both design and build. I met all o' my initial criteria, me hearties, apart from t' ability t' be flown on a G class motor. It has been a real head turner at launches, and flies great on Pro38 H and I class motors. Ahoy! Anyone fancy buildin' a Thunderbird 1 t' drag race against?

I've enjoyed puttin' this together, shiver me timbers, that I'm, almost tempted t' build another, includin' t' details I omitted from this one, such as curved pods, thrusters on t' forward transition, ribs on t' dockin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! If I were to have another attempt, I would certainly make provision for some sort o' effects devices in t' pods. Arrr! I envisage that good results would be achieved usin' a short duration, me bucko, high thrust motor located in t' main body for lift off, together with long duration, me hearties, me bucko, smoky motors in t' pods. Blimey! Avast!

Another interestin' point t' note be t' similarity in size o' t' main tube diameters, t' readily available commercial tube sizes. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' 3" for the main body, arrr, me hearties, 4" for t' centre section, 6" for t' aft section and 2.1" for t' pods, plus associated centrin' rings, a very good facsimile could be built from PML parts. Avast, me proud beauty! T' transitions, shiver me timbers, however, me hearties, ya bilge rat, would still have t' be custom made. Ahoy!

Flight Log

Launch: Copper Knobs
Motor: H153

This be t' big test. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! I had tried t' develop a good model in RockSim, arrr, but with a rocket this untypical, me hearties, you can never tell how accurate it will be until you actually fly. There be a fair bit o' finishin' off t' do. Arrr! Ahoy! T' recovery harness needed puttin' together. weight addin' t' t' nose, me bucko, and also attaching the nose. I hadn't really thought through t' consequences o' addin' so much nose weight, ya bilge rat, 600g in all. Aye aye! Aye aye! This made t' normal nose cone attachment point very unsuitable. Avast, me proud beauty! So I tied t' strap t' a piece o' threaded rod, me bucko, pushed it through the small hole I made t' pour in t' rocket caviar, me bucko, added a pour o' epoxy and pulled it tight. Avast!

T' flight went well, quite straight even in t' reasonably stiff breeze, the ejection was just a little after apogee. Ya scallywag! Descent be too fast though, and the combination o' t' descent rate and lateral speed caused two o' t' fins to pop off. Everythin' came apart where it was joined though, ya bilge rat, so it went back together easily enough. Begad! Aye aye!

Launch: EARS
Motor: H143

Once back together, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I wanted t' try flyin' with a bigger parachute. Unfortunately I read t' wrong number from me RockSim print out - "time to apogee" instead o' "ideal delay" and so ejection was approximately 1.8 seconds after apogee. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! TB3 had arced over and be pointing straight down by then, though t' parachute deployed OK, shiver me timbers, and landin' was much softer than t' first flight. Ya scallywag!

Launch: EARS
Motor: I212

It was a long drive t' Cambridgeshire t' fly just once. Ahoy! Begad! So I flew it again. This time on t' I212. This was t' best flight yet. Aye aye! A very straight boost, tons o' smoke and ejection precisely at apogee. Begad! Blimey! Unfortunately, thar was a little damage on landing. Ahoy! One o' t' "flyin' buttresses" came detached. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! It would have been easy t' fix, but I noticed that some o' t' other fin attachments were a bit wobbly, me bucko, matey, which was when I decided that a rethink was necessary. Begad! Ahoy!

Launch: WRS
Motor: H143

Another flight on an H143. Blimey! This flight be after t' rebuild. Blimey! Very nice flight, shiver me timbers, me hearties, from me viewin' point on t' ground, arrr, me bucko, shiver me timbers, t' silhouette from below clearly showed all three fin pods. Avast, me proud beauty! Unfortunately someone else was drivin' me camera. I'm now startin' t' wish I had made provision for effects motors in t' pods. Anyway, shiver me timbers, me hearties, t' strengthenin' exercise be a success, ya bilge rat, as thar was no damage whatsoever after this flight. Blimey!

Launch: BigEARS
Motor: I205

Nay very nice weather at this launch. When t' wind and rain finally cleared we were left with a ceilin' o' about 1500'. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Just enough for a flight on an I205. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Blimey! There be a lot o' interest in t' flight, matey, nay only were people interested in TB3, me bucko, but it was also one o' very few HPR flights made that day. I don't know who's idea it was t' play t' Thunderbird's theme over t' PA, ya bilge rat, but many thanks t' Mike Roberts for comin' out with a PRM. I couldn't actually hear it until then! Blimey! I've nay yet seen a video o' me "supermarionation walk", shiver me timbers, me bucko, but it appeared t' amuse t' spectators. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey!

T' launch and boost were very good, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, though perhaps nay as straight as previous flights. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! T' delay be a little long, matey, arrr, me hearties, perhaps due t' additional weight of paint, arrr, and it arced over before appearin' t' deploy. Begad! Avast! Partially deploy, anyway. T' chute stayed in t' end o' t' body tube and refused t' come out. T' problem was later diagnosed t' be t' length o' t' chute shroud lines compared t' t' length o' t' shock cord. Blimey! Arrr! Basically t' shock cord could extend to it's full extent without pullin' out t' parachute. Arrr! A very obvious error in retrospect. I must have just been lucky, on t' previous flights, shiver me timbers, matey, that the parachute was completely pushed out. Ya scallywag!

Considerin' it fell from 1500', matey, thar was surprisingly little damage. Ya scallywag! Blimey! The damage is mainly restricted t' t' fin roots buttresses. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Blimey! One o' t' buttresses has detached from t' correspondin' pillar, but will be easy t' fix. Ya scallywag! The forward section appears t' have had a bit o' a crimp, but it doesn't look deformed, which is a bit odd. Arrr! Begad! Blimey! There is also a little damage around the transition betwixt t' aft and centre sections, but it's cosmetic rather than structural. One o' t' main fin roots has been partially pulled out, and will need t' be reseated and re filleted. Begad! Blimey! So, me hearties, in summary, lots o' little things to fix, me hearties, me hearties, all o' which will be tricky without completely ruinin' t' paint job. Aye aye! Blimey!

Picture Video Credits

Many thanks for all those who allowed their pictures and videos t' be used in this article. Begad! If this comes as a surprise t' any o' you, shiver me timbers, I'll apologise now! I did try t' contact you with t' most recent email address I had, me hearties, shiver me timbers, but received no reply. Avast! If you do nay wish your pictures and/or video t' be used, arrr, let me know and I'll remove them as soon as possible. Begad!

All pictures are copyright t' photographer. Avast! Begad! Thank you to: Chris P. Begad! Brown, Damian Burrin, arrr, Mike Crewe, Ben Jarvis, Paul Lavin, Niall Oswald, me hearties, Colin Rowe, Paul Shackleton Pete Waddington. Well, blow me down! Avast! For individual attribution, matey, see t' filename. Unattributed files are copyright t' author. Avast, me proud beauty!