T' original Estes Mars Lander be always one o' me all time favorite kits. Aye aye! I remember when I be 11 years old and seein' one at a local hobby shop. Well, blow me down! I had t' have it but at that time $9.95 was a lot o' loot t' spend. I finally got a job doin' yard work for a neighbor and saved t' buy it. I was so excited when I got that kit and built it. Blimey! I had it for many years but time and Mom’s weekly cleanin' o' me room took their toll on that exotic rocket. Ya scallywag! While in college I managed t' get all t' remainin' pieces and cloned another kit. Aye aye! I even had an extra set o' decals from a designer special. That reborn lander would have been enough had I nay discovered high power rocketry.

With t' advent o' higher power motors it now became possible t' build a bigger version o' t' lander. Blimey! Aye aye! I was in a vacuum o' sorts. Begad! I thought I was t' only one thinkin' o' this but after doin' some searchin' on t' web a few years ago I found that I be one o' many that shared t' same dream and they had already accomplished t' task o' upscaling. Aye aye! Ahoy! I then discovered t' rmr newsgroup last year and began hearin' o' rumors o' a 2x Mars Lander upscale kit bein' offered. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! I had t' find out about that. Begad! In turn I was led t' a man by t' name o' Tom Prestia, proprietor o' Tango Papa Decals, me hearties, who be offerin' kits t' make a 2x upscale Mars Lander. They were relatively inexpensive at $57 plus an extra $15 for t' pre-cut centerin' rings. Ya scallywag! For that price you got a section o' PML 7.5" body tube, two coupler rings t' fit t' 7.5" tube, a 3" dia mailin' tube, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, a balsa nose cone (made by BMS), me bucko, about 4’ o' Keelhaul®©™ cord from Pratt Hobbies, a small bottle o' white fabric paint, ya bilge rat, arrr, reproduced copies o' t' original Estes Mars Lander instructions, shiver me timbers, 2x enlargements o' all t' patterns and shrouds printed on card stock, a set o' 2x decals (Tom makes very high quality decal reproductions in original and custom sizes), a section o' clear polyethylene tubin' for t' leg hinges, arrr, 4 plastic balls for t' leg hinge pivots, an assortment o' rubber bands, a Pratt Hobbies Nomex chute protector (4" square), and a sheet o' tips and hints on constructin' t' lander. T' extra $15 gets you a single ¼" ply 7.5" x 38mm centerin' ring, me bucko, me bucko, three 3.00" x 38mm ¼" ply centerin' rings, matey, and several centerin' rings for t' shrouds cut from foam core board.

T' term kit is really a misnomer. Basically what Tom has done is put together all t' hard t' procure parts and all that is left for t' builder t' get be t' wood and finishin' materials. Blimey! In all fairness t' Tom he has stated that this is a craftsman type project. As a scratch builder myself I can vouch for this. Avast, me proud beauty! I had no illusions when I bought t' ‘kit’ as t' what I was getting. I be partly curious and considerin' what I would have had t' spend just t' order t' body tube alone it be a bargain. Begad! I treated t' Mars lander upscale as a scratchbuild from t' very beginning. Ahoy! It was never me intent t' double t' size o' all t' original parts and assemble. Aye aye! This would never work considerin' t' increases in forces and weights. High power construction techniques were called for.

Base Unit/Leg Support
T' first consideration t' be made was for accessibility and repairability o' t' lander’s internals. Most people that have built an original sized version have reported that t' rubber bands used t' give t' legs their shock absorbin' sprin' tend t' break over time, shiver me timbers, either from hard landin' or t' rubber wearin' out. Ahoy! T' basic design is such that easy access t' replace these items is non-existent. Begad! Others have tried t' use springs instead o' rubber bands t' overcome t' problems associated. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' problem with springs be t' method t' mount and attach them along with t' added complexity and weight. Begad! Arrr! Blimey! My method has always been t' keep things simple. Ahoy! After lookin' at how t' lander goes together I decided that t' easiest thin' t' do was make t' body removable. T' body o' t' lander is nay load bearin' at all. Arrr! T' motor tube and t' parachute tube are really t' load bearin' structures. Aye aye! T' body shroud is really for aerodynamic purposes only. Avast! Blimey! Therefore me lander uses rubber bands t' provide t' shock absorption in t' landin' gear.

Second consideration had t' be given t' strength and durability. Tom Prestia noted that on his lander models t' legs had a tendency t' break on a hard landin' or if t' model drifted upon landing. Avast, me proud beauty! T' method for mountin' t' legs t' t' motor tube is similar t' t' original kit with t' exception that t' support shafts are spaced out further from t' motor tube. This causes them t' experience more force actin' on them. Blimey! T' use ¼" wood dowel would nay be adequate. Aye aye! I opted t' use ¼" carbon fiber arrow shaft. Avast, me proud beauty! This material is extremely strong.

In order t' allow for t' lander’s legs t' be removable t' motor tube had t' be able t' separate from t' base plate. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! I designed t' assembly in two sections. Avast! First be t' motor tube itself, a LOC 38mm, with t' ply centerin' rings t' support t' landin' gear and t' parachute tube. Ahoy! Second be t' base plate. Arrr! T' base plate is a ¼" thick ply centerin' rin' with a 38mm dia hole in t' center. Epoxied t' this is one o' t' 7.5" coupler tube pieces that slips into t' 7.5" lower body section as well as t' ply support gussets for t' motor tube and t' hook screw blocks. Avast, me proud beauty! T' motor tube and t' base unit slip together and are held by two 4-40 screws into blind nuts. Avast! Four ply gussets surroundin' t' motor tube give it t' necessary support. Begad! When t' base plate is removed t' four pins through t' arrow shafts are slipped out and t' lander legs can easily slide out for service or repair. Begad! Also attached t' t' motor tube centerin' rin' be t' shock cord mount eyebolt. Well, blow me down! T' 3.00" parachute tube will slip over t' three centerin' rings and is held in place by a single screw into t' eyebolt mount block.

Lander Legs
T' lander legs themselves are built up assemblies. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Rather than make them out o' a single thickness o' ¼" ply they are made from 3/16" bass wood strips covered with 1/32" veneer ply sheeting. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! T' basswood provides t' basic frame with an internal truss for strength. Begad! This type o' construction while more time consumin' adds a lot o' strength and weighs considerably less than a piece o' solid ply. Ahoy! T' bottom edge o' t' lander leg is also reinforced with a brass ‘U’ channel soldered t' a ¼" dia brass tube. Ahoy! Aye aye! T' wood portion o' t' leg fits into t' channel and in combination with t' tube provides for more strength. Begad! T' remainder o' t' leg is finished pretty much t' same as t' original version would be. Begad! There can be several options for hingin' t' lander leg. Well, blow me down! Avast! I chose t' polyethylene tube method as per t' original and what is supplied with t' ‘kit’. Aye aye! Since t' model has access t' this area it seemed t' easiest choice. Avast! I did decide t' use carbon fiber arrow shaft for t' upper portion o' t' leg arm pivot. Blimey! Usin' ¼" wood dowel seemed too risky since this is a high stress area and t' carbon fiber adds no weight. Arrr! Avast! T' footpads are cut from 1 ½" wood dowel with 1 7/8" cap plates glued t' them. Begad! I also added a dowel section that runs through t' footpad and into t' inside o' t' brass tube o' t' lander leg. This provides extra rigidity and more gluin' surface area. T' exposed edge o' t' 1 ½" dowel is finished off with a strip o' corrugated plastic sheet. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' shock cylinder is 3/8" brass tubin' centered on t' ¼" wood dowel.

Main Body
T' body shrouds were made from standard posterboard. Ahoy! T' ‘kit’ included cardstock enlargements o' t' originals but t' larger mid body shroud required piecin' several sections together and I preferred t' have it made from one piece o' material. Begad! Begad! In addition I did nay trust t' Xeroxed reproductions t' be accurately sized. Begad! It was much easier t' lay out me own shrouds. Begad! Blimey! I calculated t' necessary arc lengths and radii and fabricated all t' shrouds. Arrr! I made a set up table out o' a piece o' heavy duty cardboard so I could duplicate t' center points and arcs later when I made t' detail body panels. T' first shroud made was t' mid body. Avast! I first epoxied t' 7.5" dia coupler tube section t' a foam core centerin' ring. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! This would be t' base o' t' mid body and slip into t' main 7.65" body tube. Aye aye! I then made three supports from balsa t' set t' height o' t' top bulkhead, arrr, which be also a foam centerin' ring. With these two rings aligned and set I had a basic frame which t' wrap t' shroud around. T' shroud was rolled and glued together then slipped over t' frame t' set its shape. Avast! A bead o' glue run around t' inside edges where t' shroud and rings meet was all that was needed.

T' upper part o' t' ascent stage cone contains a 3" dia. Blimey! Blimey! body tube section same as that o' t' main internal body (parachute) tube. An outer couplin' rin' is used t' slip join t' two sections together when t' lander is assembled. Blimey! Blimey! After t' paper shroud was mated t' this small section o' body tube, shiver me timbers, 30-min epoxy was poured around t' shroud/tube joint. Ahoy! Blimey! This has two benefits; first it makes t' upper part o' t' tube very strong and resistant t' zipperin' and secondly it adds nose weight t' help in t' CG/CP relationship. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' nose cone shoulder extends well past this small body tube rin' and has plenty o' contact area with t' main body tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! T' two conic sections are epoxied together and ready for glassing. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I used ¾ oz glass cloth and Z-Poxy finishin' resin. After it cured t' weave be filled with lite spackle and sanded smooth. Arrr! Blimey! T' lower body section, me hearties, or descent stage, me bucko, was marked and cut for t' lander leg slots. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' gear fairings were made from 3/16 balsa with a 1/32 ply veneer on them. Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' spiral grooves on t' body tube were filled and sanded smooth. T' gear fairin' assemblies were then glued in place. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' base plate was then positioned and mate drilled t' t' descent stage. Aye aye! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Hardwood blocks epoxied t' t' inside o' t' coupler rin' on t' base plate provide somethin' for t' flush screws t' bite into t' hold t' body tube and base unit together. Begad! Blimey! T' shroud assembly is slip fit into t' descent body tube as well and held in place by two small screws. T' final shroud be t' descent stage shroud. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! This is a thin shroud that mounts t' t' bottom o' t' base plate. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! It too is made o' paper and glassed. A foam core rin' acts as t' base and a 3.00" body tube section is epoxied in t' center hole. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This tube will surround t' PVC motor retainer threaded section.

Nozzle/Motor Retention
Initially on this model I had wanted t' use t' AeroPac motor retainer system. Begad! After lookin' at several options and weighin' t' cost I discovered that PVC fittings would work just as well. Aye aye! A 1 ½ " threaded adapter and couplin' rin' would work perfectly t' hold a 38mm motor. Ya scallywag! T' base o' t' threaded rin' was attached t' t' ply base plate with JB Weld. Avast! T' nozzle itself was made from a paper pattern, ya bilge rat, mated t' a ply rin' and glassed. Blimey! T' female portion o' t' coupler be attached t' t' ply again usin' JB Weld. Aye aye! Aye aye! All you need t' do is slip t' motor in through t' male portion and t' motor tube then thread on t' nozzle. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Simple, arrr, me bucko, functional and it looks great.

Nose Cone
T' nose cone furnished with t' ‘kit’ is made from balsa. Begad! I believe it is made by BMS. Begad! It is a very nicely done cone and needs very little prep work. Ya scallywag! I glassed this cone usin' ¾ oz cloth and Z-Poxy finishin' resin. This is much easier than sandin' sealer. Begad! After fillin' t' weave and sandin' smooth it was ready for paint.

Body Detail/Finishing
One o' t' things that make t' lander interestin' be t' detail on t' body. Aye aye! T' original Estes kit used embossed paper t' provide t' 3D effect. Since it was nay practical t' do this on me larger version I used sheet styrene t' duplicate t' body panels. I used .010" Evergreen sheet styrene cut t' patterns I made usin' t' original pattern sheets and me layout board I saved for makin' t' shrouds. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' reason for this be that all o' t' panels contain radii t' allow then t' follow t' curvature o' t' shrouds. I be able t' measure and mark on t' body where all these details were t' go then glued them in place with CA glue. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! After all t' panels were in place I sanded everythin' with 400-grit sandpaper. Ya scallywag! Arrr! This softens t' edges o' t' styrene and blends them t' t' body. Begad! T' antennas were made from wood dowel and balsa. They were located and glue into place.

T' model be now ready for t' sealer coat. I used a thinned version o' Kilz primer t' fill t' wood grain and t' glassed areas. Ya scallywag! While addin' a bit o' weight I like t' finish it produces. After several coats o' t' filler t' model was then prepped for initial primer coat. Well, matey, blow me down! I used a white sandable primer. This allowed a good base and where I needed additional sandin' and filler. Begad! One coat o' primer was all that be required. T' color coat was next. I used gloss white Krylon enamel for t' body and gloss red for t' legs. Aye aye! I like Krylon and have never had a problem with it. Arrr! Begad! It always gives a good finish. Begad! I let t' color coat dry for a day before applyin' t' decals.

T' decals provided with t' ‘kit’ are excellent. Aye aye! They require trimmin' but this is nay a problem. Arrr! Begad! They are basic water slide decals and t' stick very well. Well, blow me down! I felt that thar was somethin' missin' though. Ya scallywag! I added placard and batten down t' hatches decals from various aircraft markin' sets I had from me plastic model days. Ahoy! Ahoy! These are made by MicroScale and can be purchased in most hobby shops. Blimey! T' ones I used were from a 1/32nd scale F-15. These add a nice touch t' t' finished model. After lettin' t' decals dry overnight I sprayed all t' painted parts with a clear coat. Ya scallywag! I use TopFlite’s crystal clear. It comes in a spray and is compatible with Krylon. It’s intended for R/C planes and is fuel proof. Ahoy! It may cost a little more but I think it is more durable in t' long run and it does nay yellow with age. I apply t' clear in several light layers. This prevents t' decals from reactin' (curlin' or wrinkling). Begad! Blimey! After t' last lite coat is dry I spray a final wet coat. Begad! T' lander is now ready for final assembly.

Final Assembly
T' legs are first installed t' t' motor tube and pinned in place. This assembly is then joined t' t' base plate and t' assembly screws are installed. Blimey! At this time you can install t' rubber bands for t' sprin' action on t' landin' gear. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Next comes attachment o' t' shock cord t' t' screw eye. Aye aye! Begad! In me case I am usin' 1000lbs-test Keelhaul®©™ cord from Pratt Hobbies. Begad! T' parachute tube is slipped on next and secured with a single small screw. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' main body is then lowered in place and slipped over t' base plate coupler. Begad! When this is completed it is fastened with four flush head screws and is ready t' go. Ahoy! T' model was now ready for weight and balance check. Aye aye! I located t' CG position (5" from base o' t' 7.65" body tube) and did a preliminary check with a simulated motor weight installed. Well, blow me down! T' lander be a bit tail heavy. Ya scallywag! I then put in t' parachute and this improved things a bit but nay enough. Ahoy! I took a baggie and put some BB’s in it and hung it from t' nose. I kept addin' weight until I got a slight nose down attitude. Aye aye! Weighin' this on t' scale showed I needed 6oz o' ballast in t' nose. Begad! Begad! Now t' trick was how t' get 6 ounces into t' finished model. Fortunately I had a balsa nose cone o' some size. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I got out t' spade bit and drilled out a large cavity t' add ballast weight to. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I added t' BB’s then poured in some epoxy followed by a hardwood dowel plug. Ya scallywag! T' combined weight o' t' epoxy, wood and BB’s brought t' CG t' t' right spot. Avast! T' finished model weighs in at 4lbs ready t' fly, arrr, matey, less motor.

Flight Report
As o' this writin' t' lander has nay flown yet. Avast! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' lander is expected t' fly on and Aerotech H123W with a 4-second delay. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Recovery will be via a 72" chute. I intend t' fly this rocket on a calm day t' minimize weather cockin' and drift. Estimated altitude will only be about 650’. While this won’t be that high it should be high enough t' provide a visually pleasin' flight.

Flight Day has Arrived
Well, matey, arrr, matey, flight day arrived and it was perfect; no wind and clear skies. Avast! Begad! I prepped t' H123 motor and trimmed t' delay for approx. 4 seconds. Ahoy! I opted t' brin' t' nose cone down on a separate chute from t' main lander after readin' Tom Prestia's post recently on rmr. After both chutes were packed and t' motor installed I headed out for t' pads. T' people I passed on t' way out thar were amazed that this rocket be goin' t' actually fly. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I was told that I had some big ones t' fly this bird. Ya scallywag! I lowered t' lander on one o' our far pads, hooked up t' ignitors and made one last check. There was nothin' left t' do except sit and watch.

My lander was t' only flight on this rack and t' LCO made a special announcement for everyone t' watch this flight. Ahoy! Begad! I crossed me fingers and said a little prayer. 5......4......3......2......1......LAUNCH!!!!

T' motor lit right away and t' lander boosted straight up with a slight spin. Avast! It looked gorgeous in that blue November sky. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Just as t' lander reached apogee t' ejection fired and deployed t' chutes. T' 54" main unfurled perfectly but t' smaller chute for t' nose cone got tangled in t' shock cord. Ya scallywag! No matter. T' lander was descendin' perfectly, me bucko, with a slow drift towards t' south. Arrr! Everyone be wonderin' if it would remain upright on touchdown and they were nay disappointed. Avast, me proud beauty! T' lander touched down on t' soft dirt with t' shock absorbers providin' a little spring. Ya scallywag! Touchdown was greeted with cheers and applause from t' crowd. T' say I was elated would have been an understatement. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! A perfect first flight. All t' hard work and plannin' paid off. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! I was asked if it would fly again later that day and I said more than likely it would.

After several other flights, which included a perfect flight o' me Saturn 1b, me bucko, I prepped t' lander again. I was less nervous this time, shiver me timbers, me hearties, however. Ahoy! Arrr! Launch and boost were perfect. Begad! T' parachute deployed right at apogee then disaster struck. T' Keelhaul®©™ cord I was usin' as t' shock cord broke. Blimey! T' lander tumbled down from t' sky. Ahoy! It spun, it tumbled. Begad! T' crowd gasped and I could hear t' collective moan o' despair. Begad! But amazingly, nay more than 50 feet before impact it straightened up and hit t' dirt upright. Well, blow me down! I be nonplussed about it. Begad! As I said before and will say again, I built it once I can build it again.

To me surprise t' damage was minimal. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' lower descent shroud was a little crunched, two o' t' gear housings were damaged from t' legs over-travel but other than that t' lander was fine. T' main body and shrouds were undamaged and t' legs had some minor paint scrapes. And since t' lander disassembles repair is already underway. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! It WILL fly again. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! My modular design approach proved its worth this day. Blimey! Blimey! T' lander project has been fun and challenging. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I be more nervous flyin' this rocket than me Saturn 1b. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! But t' bounty be worth every moment o' anxiety I had.