| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
(Contributed - by John Coles)
I'm a BAR with an affinity for oddrocs. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! While lookin' through t' Apogee Components catalog one day, with their array o' 10.5mm parts and motors, I thought about combinin' two o' me favorite hobbies, ya bilge rat, rocketry and traditional archery. After all, arrows move at high speeds like rockets, shiver me timbers, are very stable like rockets should be, and are only lackin' a self-contained propulsion source. Begad! So I decided "What t' hey", matey, shiver me timbers, generated a RockSim file t' test my design and then placed me order. Ahoy! Ahoy!
This be t' result.
Broken Arrow Break Apart Odd-Roc
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Length: 27.85" Main Airframe: BT-10.5 Parts List: |
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Most o' t' parts are finished separately before any assembly is done. Blimey! T' exception t' this is in gluin' t' launch lugs t' the 9" (short) body tube. Blimey!
T' first step is t' fill t' nose cone and body tube spirals with Elmerís Fill 'n' Finish (or whatever itís called these days), and sand them smooth. Aye aye!
Next, draw a line down t' length o' t' short body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue one launch lug onto t' line flush with t' forward end o' t' tube, shiver me timbers, and t' other lug onto t' line 1 1/2" up from t' other (aft) end. Avast! Verify that t' two launch lugs are in alignment and allow t' dry. Aye aye! Fillet t' lugs and let dry again. Begad! Ya scallywag!
T' nose cone is painted satin black, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' 18" (long) body tube is painted brown, shiver me timbers, and t' short body tube is painted gloss white with a .75" gloss black band on t' aft end (the "nock"). Ya scallywag! Begad! T' cresting on t' arrow is accomplished usin' stripin' tape o' various colors and widths, cut as necessary t' fit around t' forward launch lug. When t' paint is completely dry, me hearties, assembly may begin. Ahoy! Ya scallywag!
Apply wood glue 1 3/8" into t' aft ("nock") end o' t' short body tube with a cotton swab. Usin' an Apogee micro motor or 3/8" dowel 1 1/2" long, arrr, push t' engine block 1 3/8" into t' body tube. Aye aye! T' micro motor should extend 1/8" out t' end o' t' body tube. Blimey! Blimey! Remove t' motor, set t' body tube up on t' nock end and allow t' dry. Begad!
Glue t' nose cone into one end o' t' long body tube. Aye aye! Begad! Glue t' coupler halfway (1") into t' other end o' t' long body tube and set aside to dry. Ahoy!
Mark t' short body tube at 120 degree intervals, such that one line is opposite t' launch lugs. Attach t' feathers, ya bilge rat, arrr, one at a time, t' t' body tube on these lines, usin' Duco cement or t' equivalent. Blimey! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Place t' back o' t' fins about 1/4" ahead o' t' "nock" line. Begad! Blimey! You may find that clampin' t' feather with binder clips betwixt two 6" steel rulers allows for easier handling. Blimey! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! (I tried usin' me arrow fletchin' jig, but it can only handle up t' 3/8" [9.5mm] shafts.) When dry, use t' Duco cement t' fillet the feather base t' t' body tube.
Fletch
Fin Template
3 ea. Begad! Blimey! 5" shield-cut arrow fletchin' (from any sporting
goods store caterin' t' traditional archers). Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Any standard 5" feathers
will work.
1/16" balsa fins may be substituted, arrr, but what's t' point?
Set t' screw eye into t' exposed end o' t' balsa coupler, shiver me timbers, and secure with glue. Avast! Test fit t' coupler into t' forward end o' the short body tube. Begad! T' fit should be snug and smooth, arrr, nay too tight or too sloppy.
Attach one end o' t' shock cord t' t' screw eye. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Attach t' free end of the shock cord at least 1" down into t' short body tube, usin' either a small Estes-style mount or t' method o' your choice. Ahoy! T' key is t' make the shock cord mount unobtrusive enough so as t' nay interfere with deployment. Begad! Ya scallywag!
T' final assembly step is t' align t' two sections o' body tube. This minimizes corkscrewin' durin' flight. Put t' rocket together as if prepping for launch. Aye aye! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Sight down t' length o' t' arrow, me hearties, and rotate t' two sections of body tube relative t' one another until they line up as straight as possible. Then mark t' coupler at t' point where it slides under t' forward launch lug. Begad! That way, shiver me timbers, when preppin' for flight you need only t' line up t' mark with the launch lug when puttin' t' two pieces together t' assure a straight flight. Begad!
Preppin' for Flight
Insert two pea-sized balls o' waddin' into t' lower body tube and puff down against t' engine block. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Accordion fold t' shock cord and slide it in, then close up t' two sections, makin' sure t' line up t' mark on t' coupler with the forward launch lug.
Fit an Apogee 1/2A2-4 micro motor. Blimey! WARNING! Use a wrap o' tape around both the body tube and exposed motor t' provide positive motor retention. Aye aye! (Black electricians tape preserves t' look o' t' rocket - maskin' tape works, me hearties, arrr, but doesnít look as pretty.) Failure t' do so can result in kickin' the engine and a lawn dart recovery (see flight report below). Well, blow me down! Well, me bucko, blow me down!
Flight ReportT' Broken Arrow has flown twice, with one perfect flight and one recovery failure. Arrr! T' first flight went up straight as an arrow (but o' course!), separated at apogee and recovered perfectly.
On t' second flight, ya bilge rat, I failed t' properly secure t' motor, matey, which ejected at apogee. Ahoy! With t' CG shifted forward and t' aerodynamics intact, arrr, she came zingin' down from about 350' and stuck 1/2" into t' sun-baked, drought-hardened dirt. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Fortunately, matey, it be far enough downrange that no one was ever in any danger. Well, blow me down! T' body tube is kinked slightly just behind t' nose cone, and will be easy enough t' repair.
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