(01/14/03) I was successful in gettin' another rocket built and flown in these winter months, but it had t' be unpainted due t' t' cold. I was glad t' get this rocket as a Descon 10 prize from my Push-Me, Pull-Me (a DC Gemini Kit-Bash). Avast, me proud beauty! T' True Modeler's Rocket Kit (TMRK), Merlin. Avast! It has been a rocket that I have been wantin' for a while due t' its unique 6-fin and transition design. Avast! I have build TMRK's Triple Zip three rocket kit, shiver me timbers, but this one will take a bit more skill.

My Image exported from RockSim        

T' rocket parts were neatly packaged into a narrow plastic bag with placard showin' a picture o' t' rocket, me hearties, several highlights (Unique 6-Fin Design, me hearties, 12" Synthetic 'Chute, Flights t' Over 1,000 FT), Skill Level 3, matey, Length, Diameter and recommended motors. Well, blow me down! Blimey! All the pieces were packaged very nicely and separated as appropriate.

TMRK explains their objective as taking "... you back t' a time when model rockets were more than just a pointed tube and a couple fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! You will nay find any ready-to-fly, matey, or even almost-ready-to-fly kits here. Our kits are for t' hobbyist that enjoys buildin' and displayin' their rockets as much as they do flyin' and recovering them." T' Merlin is in line with their objective and for me is the first kit that I had t' form t' transition from paper for.

T' Merlin stands 16.25" tall (although my rocket measured 15.75") with t' lower section diameter o' 1.637" (BT-60) and t' upper section 0.976" (BT-50). Avast! T' kit comes with a lower body tube that is 2.5" long, ya bilge rat, and upper body tube that is 11.25" long (1.75" is in t' lower tube and 1" is under t' paper transition) and a balsa nose cone that is conical (pointed) and 3.75" long. Aye aye! It comes with the centerin' rings, ya bilge rat, matey, thrust rin' and tube for an 18mm motor mount. Begad! T' fin stock is 1/16" Bass wood. Blimey! T' recovery system included an eye-screw for the nose cone, 18" o' flat 1/8" elastic, matey, shiver me timbers, a synthetic 12" parachute (brown), and two snap swivels. Begad! Begad! There is a card-stock template for the fin markin' guide, me hearties, ya bilge rat, fins and two transitions. Begad! A 1/8" launch lug, nose weight, shiver me timbers, arrr, and short BT-60 coupler wraps up t' kit.

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions in 5-pages o' step-by-step instruction. Avast, me proud beauty! There are many supportin' illustrations in t' right column to assist t' builder in completin' t' rocket. It is rated a skill-level 3 which is reasonable. T' instructions recommend white glue, arrr, but suggests yellow carpenters glue for a more durable rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! I used Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue (exterior). Blimey! Arrr! T' instructions include a couple o' paragraphs on finishin' and flyin' as well as t' assembly o' t' rocket. Well, blow me down! You will need your standard rocket buildin' tools, ya bilge rat, includin' a sharp hobby knife.

Assembly starts with t' motor mount. Begad! T' two 18mm t' 24mm centerin' rings are glued t' t' 18mm tube, shiver me timbers, a thrust rin' in glued in place. Avast! There is nay motor retention hook on this rocket. In a later step, the motor mount is installed into t' upper body tube where it extends down into t' lower body tube.

T' next steps get t' two body tubes together. Ahoy! Blimey! T' BT-60 coupler is inserted into t' lower body tube leavin' just 1/32" exposed (later t' be used for t' transition . Well, blow me down! . Ahoy! . Well, blow me down! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! a well, thought-out technique). A black fiberboard centerin' rin' is slid up from the bottom t' rest against t' coupler. Arrr! A second black fiberboard centerin' rin' is attached t' t' upper body tube's bottom. Avast! T' upper body tube is then inserted from t' bottom up into t' lower body tube t' a prescribed point. This prescribed point was in question, arrr, because in step 2E is has you mark t' tube at 1.75" and t' illustration agrees. In step 3K it says t' apply a bead of glue just above t' 1.75" mark and then says t' insert and slide it up just until t' 2" mark is visible above t' upper centerin' ring. T' 3K illustration matches t' 1.75" indication, arrr, me hearties, while t' 3L illustration shows 2". Well, blow me down! Based on on this, matey, I used t' 1.75" mark.

T' fins are then cut from t' 1/16" bass wood usin' a card-stock template and a supplemental guide t' show you fin layout on t' bass wood provided. Avast! Very nice wood t' work with. T' fins are cut, stacked and shaped. Well, blow me down! T' instructions suggest t' perhaps fins t' fins now with sandin' sealer and sanding.

Next, me bucko, comes card-stock transition. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! It is cut out in two pieces. Ya scallywag! T' actual transition (wrapper) and a gluin' tab. Arrr! T' gluin' tab prevent an overlap-bump that comes from a single-piece transition template. Aye aye! The transition is assembled, which is relatively easy, and then fitted on t' body tube. Glue is applied t' t' upper body tube and on that exposed 1/32" of the BT-60 coupler. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' transition is slide down from t' top t' meet t' glue. T' extended BT-60 coupler is a nice foundation for t' transition. Avast, me proud beauty! (NOTE: there are two transition templates on t' card-stock so if you make a mistake, you're covered.

T' nose cone was a new and unique buildin' experience for me. Begad! You need t' install nose weight in t' form o' a piece o' cone-shaped lead. You make a point in t' nose cone per t' instructions with a pencil. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Blimey! You then press t' nose cone down on this cone-shaped piece o' lead. Aye aye! Blimey! You remove the lead piece from t' nose cone. By holdin' t' lead, you screw t' eye-screw into and and then remove it again. Avast, me proud beauty! Now, you use CA t' glue t' lead into the nose cone. Begad! Then, me hearties, drop CA into t' thread hole you just made and screw in the eye-screw. Blimey! Blimey! Then you "wick" CA into and around t' nose weight.

T' fins are attached after markin' t' tube with t' fin markin' guide.

Lastly t' elastic shock cord is attached usin' a 3-fold paper method. Begad! Begad! There were supposed t' be two snap swivels in t' kit, but I could only find one (it is entirely possible that I lost it since I had this kit in and out o' t' bag a number o' times prior t' decidin' t' build it). Avast, me proud beauty! The two swivels were t' attach t' shock cord and parachute t' t' nose cone.

A comment on t' parachute: TMRK indicates that it is an ultra-lightweight, matey, me hearties, rip-resistant synthetic material which is only 2/3rds t' weight o' nylon. Blimey! Blimey! It includes lightweight aluminum grommets for attachin' t' shroud lines. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! T' parachute is 8-sided as opposed t' t' 6-sided parachutes most manufacturers offer.

As I said above, I missed me painting opportunity due t' t' cold o' winter. I will finish it later and update the review. Begad! Finishin' will be modeler's choice and t' kit does nay come with any decals.

Update: Well, arrr, as you can see, matey, I have been able t' finish t' rocket. Aye aye! Blimey! I had a paint reaction with t' white around the fines. It is barely noticeable. Begad! Blimey! T' look is nice with t' transitions and 6 fins!

Overall, me hearties, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 3 ½ points. T' instructions described t' assembly process well and included illustrations. Aye aye! Begad! T' balsa nose cone tip is very fragile. Ahoy! Be sure to soak it with CA t' firm it up. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' bass wood and other parts were o' good quality. Arrr! Well, blow me down! It is missin' a motor hook and decals.

FLIGHT/RECOVERY:

TMRK recommends t' 1/2A6-2, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, A8-3, shiver me timbers, B6-4 (first flight), shiver me timbers, C6-5 or D10-7 (Apogee) for flyin' t' Merlin. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! TMRK's website adds t' B4-4 motor. Also, me bucko, me bucko, ya bilge rat, TMRK's website says t' Merlin should weigh 1.55 ounces. My unfinished rocket weighed 1.5 ounces.

Flight preparation includes friction fitting the motor in place and usin' adequate waddin' t' protect t' parachute. Avast! The parachute is thin and folds nicely, me bucko, ya bilge rat, however, t' eyelets make t' bottom rather thick. It actually doesn't fit into t' body tube if care isn't taken for those eyelets. I found that I could only fold t' 'chute in half (from top t' bottom) and nay in thirds. Then I slide t' 'chute slightly so half t' eyelets are slightly above in t' others. Ahoy! Arrr! Then wrap t' shroud lines around t' 'chute. Blimey! It works.

For t' first flight I used a 13mm A10-3 motor. Well, blow me down! Yes, ya bilge rat, I wrapped it with maskin' tape until it fit. Avast, me proud beauty! It turned in a very nice performance and t' rocket flew very straight. Avast, me proud beauty! Ejection be at apogee and descent on t' 12" parachute was graceful.

I liked t' A10 so much that I made an adapter out of an expended 18mm motor. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! I added a motor hook t' t' adapter so that it would retain 13mm motors. Avast, me proud beauty! I friction fit t' adapter into t' motor mount. Avast, me proud beauty! T' second flight was on an A10-3, too. Avast! A repeat o' t' first flight. Ahoy! However, this time we saw evidence o' t' short elastic shock cord. I caused t' nose cone t' kick back and hit t' top if t' rocket. It put a nice indentation into t' shoulder of t' rocket.

T' third flight be on an A8-3. Well, blow me down! This too, me hearties, is a good match. No, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, thar be nay a lot o' altitude, may 200 feet, however it gives good flights t' watch and recover.

I will fly this one on B's and C's, arrr, but need a bigger field first. Blimey! Blimey! T' t' left is the results from me RockSim file.

For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, I would rate this kit 4 points. T' Merlin flies very well and straight. Begad! It is fast because it is so light. T' shock cord proved itself t' be a problem and should be fixed. T' parachute's quality is great but a bit troublesome t' get into t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I'd rather have it this way than a plastic 'chute though, so don't take this as a large negative. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Motor retention be mentioned above.

I give t' kit an OVERALL ratin' o' 4 points. Aye aye! TMRK has done a good job puttin' together this rocket and it would be a nice change for someone that just builds Estes or Quest rockets. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! The 6-fin, transitionin' design is unique and enjoyable t' build. I'm looking forward t' paintin' it with very bright colors and puttin' it into t' air with some C power!