Scratch Fly Ball Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Fly Ball {Scratch}

Contributed by Moira Jean Whitlock

Manufacturer: Scratch
Fly Ball
(Contributed - by Moira Jean Whitlock)

Rocket PicHeight=47.5"
Weight=31"
Width=3"
Motor=29mm
Recovery=parachute

Brief
This is a sport rocket in two senses. Avast! It's for fun and also is done up t' celebrate baseball. Arizona's new team, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' Diamondbacks, ya bilge rat, inspired this rocket and it's done up in t' team colors o' teal, purple, black, and tan. Avast, me proud beauty! Its chute is made up o' gores o' teal and black. T' model has a special look as well. It has three delta fins and also nine 1.5 inch Estes body tubes around t' main body tube with t' fins protrudin' at every third tube. Blimey!

Construction
If thar be any "gotcha" at all, it's that t' main 3 inch body tube is phenolic. Avast! When I conceived o' this project, shiver me timbers, I didn't yet have proper tools t' cut dado grooves into phenolic. Begad! So, me bucko, arrr, I affixed t' three fins (3/16 inch plywood birch with root edge o' 7 1/2 inches and trailin' edge o' 5 1/4 inches length) right t' t' body tube. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! But then I wondered how strong this could be as is if I opted t' fly larger than G motors in it. Arrr! Begad! Phenolic does have good pressure strength after all. Begad! Aye aye! So I wondered about how t' strengthen the bond o' t' fins by other means. Then I noticed that nine Estes body tubes, each 9 inches in length and 1.5 inches in diameter, would go around t' body perfectly and let t' fins stay where they were perfectly. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! So I used then as a sort o' fillet, as it were, ya bilge rat, with 30 minute epoxy all around. Aye aye! Blimey! I chose that over faster dryin' epoxy because I read that its bond is stronger as its setting time increases. Ya scallywag! Alignment was easy because t' tubes essentially aligned themselves along with t' fins.

BottomI started with good fin placement because I used a measurin' tape and trisected t' main body tube's circumference t' place t' fins. I performed two trisections so that I could draw a straight line for each fin and avoid canting. Begad!

Supplies are easy t' get. Begad! T' PML phenolic tube and nose cone and Estes parts are stock supplies at many hobby stores as be t' birch wood, although I opted t' get me wood at a local hardwood dealer. Arrr!

T' motor mount is made from a 10 inch length o' LOC 29mm motor tubin' and 2 LOC 1/4 inch thick plywood centerin' rings that fit 29mm tubes into 3 inch body tubes. T' forward rin' has a screw-eye bolted and glued into place and affixed t' it be t' shock cord mount. Arrr! Blimey! T' initial 12 inches o' the shock cord is 1/4 inch steel cable which I got at Home Depot. It's t' sort of wire suitable t' go with bicycle locks. Begad! Blimey! Then t' 4 feet o' shock cord itself is 1/4 inch bungee that is tied t' t' loop at t' base o' t' nose cone. Begad! The chute is 30 inches in diameter and is an octagon made o' eight gores o' nylon in alternatin' teal and black with a teardrop shape t' t' gores, givin' a skirts appearance when opened up. Aye aye! Blimey!

T' launch lug is 6 inches o' 13mm Estes body tubing. Aye aye! I chose this because I wanted t' be able t' use sturdy launch rods, as t' model is heavy. Begad!

T' motor retainer is two loops o' doubled piano wire through holes in t' aft centerin' ring. Aye aye! Aye aye! T' loops are bolted and glued on t' forward side o' t' centerin' rin' and loop over t' motor, but are nay placed right over t' nozzle. Avast! T' loops are further held in place with an automotive hose clamp around t' part o' t' motor tube overhangin' t' main body. Begad!

Overall, me hearties, what you get is a very sturdy model with a unique look, almost rough and tough.

T' finishin' touches is a series o' baseball decals for t' team, available in many local stores and team shops. Begad! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! I also made me own personal decal usin' self adhesive glossy paper. Avast, me proud beauty! It's a baseball streakin' up t' body tube with a flame trail behind it. Ahoy! Well, blow me down!

LaunchFlight
Note that t' launch rod must go through one o' t' outer tubes and through t' launch lug.

Thus far, me bucko, ya bilge rat, me bucko, t' G35 and G80 have produced great flights. Arrr! They had a delay o' 7, ya bilge rat, but maybe 4 would be better, arrr, as it seemed t' me that t' chute came out at only a couple hundred feet. Aye aye! Aye aye! No nose weightin' was needed. However, with t' H97 and H180 I plan t' use, me bucko, I will probably add 3 or 4 ounces t' t' nose t' increase static stability. On t' other hand, t' tubes act as fins themselves, so maybe t' weightin' might nay be needed. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! I'll be testin' this soon. Thus far, flights have been straight and cool. Begad! Begad! Watchers liked it a lot and stopped me for photos. Avast!

No damage or burnin' occurred as o' yet. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I used worm bed waddin' to protect t' chute, arrr, matey, matey, and it's effective. Avast, me proud beauty!

Summary
This be fun because it mutated as I went. Begad! T' end product was highly admired and different. Begad! T' hard part be nay bein' able t' groove t' phenolic. So far, ya bilge rat, I'm nay sure how t' do it without crackin' it, as it's a bit brittle. T' project didn't cost much, me hearties, either. Begad! Begad!

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