Brief:
This is a rough scale model o' Rama from Arthur C. Begad! Clarke's Rendezvous With Rama. Arrr! It's made from a piece of 3-inch mailin' tube and scrap materials. Begad! T' fictional Rama is 54km long, shiver me timbers, makin' mine roughly 1:270000.

Construction:
Parts list:

• 7.5" o' 3" mailin' tube
• 1 end cap
• 6" or so o' BT-20
• EB-20 and EH-20
• 1/16" cardstock
• 1 screw eye
• thin clear plastic for fins
• parachute and shock cord
• 2" o' 1/8" launch lug

1. Cut four 3" t' 0.75" centerin' rings from t' cardstock. Ya scallywag!
2. Glue t' engine block and hook into t' aft end o' t' BT-20.
3. Glue two pairs o' centerin' rings together.
4. Glue t' two thicker rings t' t' BT-20 engine mount/stuffer tube
5. Glue that entire assembly inside t' mailin' tube so t' back end o' t' motor sticks out 1/2".
6. Fill t' end cap with wood glue. Avast! This adds weight, ya bilge rat, so you could replace t' glue with hard foam or balsa.
7. Cut a 3.1" circle o' cardstock. Ahoy! Glue it over t' wood glue in t' nose/end cap.
8. Screw t' screw eye into t' non-cardstock end o' t' cap.
9. Cut out and attach 3 clear fins. Blimey! Blimey! T' shape doesn't matter--this is NOT built for performance! Blimey! Use CA or epoxy. Arrr! Blimey! Do not use plastic cement or white glue!
10. Attach t' shock cord and chute. Arrr! Add t' launch lug. Well, arrr, blow me down!

Flight:
I recommend t' Estes or Quest C6-3 motors for Rama. A B6-2 is barely acceptable. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Do not use a B4 or A8. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! A B8, B14, arrr, me hearties, C10, and any 18mm D would work although all are costly. Begad!

I recommend either 2-3 sheets o' waddin' in t' stuffer tube or usin' a baffle. There will be about 3-4 inches on space in t' BT-20 for a baffle.

It boosts very straight t' about 150 feet on a C6-3. Ejection is right near apogee.

Use at least 3 feet o' shock cord. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' heavy nose will break anythin' less than 1/4" elastic. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Do nay use a standard Estes rubber band.

Anythin' from a 12" t' 18" chute will work. Aye aye! Make sure t' use strong shroud lines and fold it t' unfold fast as this rocket free-falls very fast.

My first flight be on a B4-2 with no fins. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! (I attempted t' stabilize it usin' nose weight only.) It staggered to 30 feet before fallin' back, shiver me timbers, fortunately with no damage. Begad! Begad! Again, do nay use a B4!

My second flight was with fins on a C6-3. Avast! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! It was a perfect boost t' about 150 feet. Avast! Blimey! T' parachute melted, me hearties, and plastic wad recovery be unsuccessful. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' only damage was broken fins that were easily re-glued.

Make sure t' use a long launch rod as Rama accelerates slowly.

Summary:
Rama is a great simple scale model. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Experienced modelers could easily add t' hatches, cratered outer wall, and other features described in t' book. Avast, me proud beauty! It requires only t' engine tube, me hearties, block and hook. Arrr! Everythin' else is scratch components. Begad! Ahoy! It would also make a good, arrr, cheap testbed for ejection baffles or other experimental devices. Begad! Since it's draggy and heavy, it's ideal for small fields and windy days.

T' only con I can think o' is that it requires high-thrust, short-delay motors which aren't useful for much else. Well, blow me down! Begad! Also, it's hard t' find good clear plastic. I used a spare 1/8" Lexan sheet.