Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the Estes Nike Arrow, with coloring and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! The model has a 24mm engine mount, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with a removable engine adapter. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the nose cone, shiver me timbers, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. This model is 34" tall, matey, and weighs about 3.4oz. Arrr! Blimey! without an engine. Aye aye! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! T' fin size and length are 2:1, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Parts:

• one 18" BT-50
• one 12" BT-50
• one 10" BT-55
• one 4" white plastic NC-50(the white one in t' Estes Designer's Special is perfect)
• three 55/50 heavy duty centerin' rings
• one 50/20 heavy duty centerin' ring
• one BT-50 body tube coupler
• engine hook
• shock cord
• clay
• 3/16" launch lug
• balsa fin stock
• Fin Pattern

Assembly:
1. Begad! Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top o' t' BT-55 tube. This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition shroud. Well, blow me down! Avast! An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward centerin' ring, arrr, ya bilge rat, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.

2. Arrr! Blimey! Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2 1/2" from t' rear. This will serve as t' thrust ring. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Glue t' engine hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, shiver me timbers, and just behind t' thrust ring. Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey!

3. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Well, blow me down! Note that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".

4. Ya scallywag! Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine mount tube. Ahoy! Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube coupler. Arrr! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.

5. Blimey! Begad! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. Arrr! I used 1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins. Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, and double the dimensions, me bucko, shiver me timbers, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge o' t' 4 smaller front fins, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear fins. Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition. T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. Well, blow me down! (Note: These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. program on Rob Blaske's home page)

6. Well, blow me down! Glue first one paper transition shroud, and after it is dry, arrr, a second one. Well, blow me down! Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, me bucko, as it is an excellent strength enhancer after it is dry. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! After t' transition shroud hardens, ya bilge rat, matey, me hearties, the glue will shrink and ripple. Well, blow me down! Sand down any edges and ridges, then fill in the ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, ya bilge rat, sandin' t' desired shape and smoothness.

7. Blimey! Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, ya bilge rat, and mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Begad! Make a 4 fin markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, me bucko, and mark t' tube just forward o' the transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.

8. Begad! Arrr! Blimey! Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for increased bondin' strength, me hearties, and glue on t' fins.

9. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey! Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;

10. Prime and sand. Aye aye! Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss white. Blimey! For a better lookin' orange, all areas that will be orange should have one coat o' white. Ya scallywag! Mask t' section that will remain white, and paint t' rear fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube gloss orange. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, arrr, as it will be easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Mask and paint t' middle section o' the forward tube chrome, leavin' t' front 4" orange. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! It was just more masking work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, shiver me timbers, so I left it white.

11. Ya scallywag! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, me bucko, glue in a traditional paper shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.

12. Begad! Begad! Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Aye aye! Blimey! Prime and paint t' nose cone if required. Add decalcomania as desired.

13. Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, attach a 14" parachute, and prep for launch. Avast! Avast!

Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, t' maiden flight should be on the smallest engine advisable, arrr, arrr, arrr, and work your way up. For me 3.4oz. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! model, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I first used a B6-4, ya bilge rat, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. Avast, me proud beauty! It then flew to about 300ft on a C6-5. Ya scallywag! I haven't tried a D engine yet, shiver me timbers, as I need a bigger field. Begad! Blimey!

11/99 -
1. Begad! It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. Well, blow me down! However, since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, me hearties, arrr, and I had forgotten t' do a glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, one lower fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. Avast! T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue! There was enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Begad! I recommend cutting slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs in t' instructions. Aye aye! Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before finishing, me bucko, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition. Begad!