Brief:
This is a semi-scale model o' t' GBU-24 Paveway III laser guided bomb. Arrr! Blimey! It flies on 18mm motors and recovers under a 12" chute. You can find more info on t' actual bomb [here] . Ahoy! Avast!

Construction:

• One BT-55, 10 7/8" long
• Plastic tail cone/adapter (separated durin' construction)
• Two BT-20 tubes, 5" long
• Seamless elliptical plastic nose cone, BT-20
• Cardstock centerin' rings
• Engine hook
• Engine block
• Mylar retainer rin' for t' engine hook
• Launch lug, arrr, me hearties, ya bilge rat, 1/8"
• Elastic shock cord, matey, 1/8" x 18"
• Assembled 12" plastic chute
• Die cut balsa fins, me bucko, 3/32"
• Die cut balsa fin protectors, 1/16"
• Peel and stick decals
• Endurin' Freedom sticker (not used on model)

T' first step is t' assemble t' motor mount. Begad! This is a typical build, arrr, and consists o' t' BT-20 motor mount, two centerin' rings, an engine hook, matey, a Mylar retainer for t' hook, and a motor block. I used carpenter's glue as recommended. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Blimey! Before installation in t' main body tube, shiver me timbers, I epoxied a two-foot section o' Keelhaul®©™® twine onto t' mount, trough t' top ring.

Next, I removed and sanded t' fins, me hearties, and filled them with Fill 'n Finish. T' main fins were fine, ya bilge rat, but t' protectors, me hearties, which attach on either side o' the rear fins, me hearties, were very thin and warped badly when exposed t' t' moisture in the Fill 'n Finish. I pressed these as they dried and they straightened out.

T' tail cone and transition come as one unit and must be separated. Well, blow me down! A razor saw is suggested, but I used an Exacto cutlass. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! T' bottom o' t' tail cone must also be trimmed and sanded, as do t' fin slots. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! T' latter start as rectangular projections, which are cut off with a razor saw, formin' t' slots. T' final trimmin' is supposed t' be t' top o' t' transition. Aye aye! T' instructions have you cut this off, me hearties, leavin' a hollow unit with both t' top and bottom open. T' shock cord then attaches t' t' inside o' t' upper body tube usin' a paper mount. Instead, me bucko, I poked a small hole in t' recessed ridge just below t' top o' the transition, fed a loop o' Keelhaul®©™® twine through t' hole and around t' transition (see photo). Avast, me proud beauty! This formed a loop, which t' elastic cord will later attach to. Well, matey, blow me down! A small dab o' 5-minute Epoxy on t' hole and knot holds t' twine in.

T' tail cone is used t' adjust t' depth o' t' motor mount as it is glued into t' main body tube. Aye aye! Once positioned, t' tail cone is attached, shiver me timbers, making sure t' engine hook is centered betwixt t' fin slots. Begad! Arrr! I used black rubberized CA in place o' t' recommended plastic cement.

T' lower fins are mounted through t' slots in t' tail cone. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I found these slots t' be excessively loose, so they didn't support t' fins well. Well, blow me down! I applied yellow glue t' t' fin tab and t' front root section. Avast! Ya scallywag! T' hold t' fins while this glue set, matey, matey, I used Liquid Nails Perfect Glue, me bucko, Type 1 on t' aft root section. Avast! Begad! This sets fast and t' fins were good t' go. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! There is a markin' guide for t' top fins, and these were attached with carpenter's glue. Begad! After t' rear fins set, you position t' fin deployment guides and mark their position. Begad! A thin layer o' yellow glue is applied t' fins up t' t' mark, shiver me timbers, and t' guides are attached. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! These immediately warped like crazy, me bucko, so a couple o' small clamps were required on each guide/fin/guide 'sandwich' as they set. Begad! Begad! Afterwards, these still seemed flimsy, shiver me timbers, so I added a small strip o' scrap balsa betwixt each pair at their roots.

T' final steps prior t' finishin' be t' launch lug and Fill ' Finish fillets. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! I didn't' glue t' top tube t' t' transition or t' cone until finishin' be complete. Arrr! Blimey! When they were connected, I again used black CA.

After finishing, arrr, all that be left be tyin' t' elastic cord t' the Keelhaul®©™® leader in t' body tube and t' Keelhaul®©™® loop on t' transition. Ya scallywag! I stashed t' cute that be provided and will use a 12" nylon chute.

Overall, me bucko, I give this build a 3 1/2. Avast, me proud beauty! It all went together easily with the exception o' t' fin deployment guides, which should have been made o' thicker material. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' dimensionin' o' t' fin slots on t' tail cone also wasn't good. Luckily any 'slop' is hidden by those guides. Begad! Blimey! One thin' that stood out t' me was t' quality o' t' nose cone - it is completely seamless. Avast! Blimey!

Finishing:
I started with fill-n-finish on t' fins and tubes before assembly. Blimey! I found the spirals on t' BT-55 t' be shallow, me bucko, arrr, but t' ones on t' top BT-20 were deeper, and required some filler. Aye aye! Arrr! After assembly, I shot several coats o' white primer, sandin' and fillin' in between. Arrr!

T' instructions say t' use olive drab and red spray paint, me hearties, a silver paint pen, me hearties, and t' follow t' paint scheme on t' cover. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! T' cover picture shows the fin section, top fins and nose cone t' be olive drab, and top BT-20 t' be more of a tan then red. Ahoy! Aye aye! Blimey! I used Testors' spray for t' olive drab sections. Avast! Blimey! In the photos on t' link I presented in t' intro, t' top tube seems t' be somewhat of a rust colored red. Arrr! Blimey! I decided t' use red paint, which did get toned down as it was overlaid over t' olive drab. Avast, me proud beauty! I tested some Krylon red on a piece of wood, and it seemed t' be OK. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Blimey! However, some bubbles formed when I used it over the Testor's paint on t' model. Begad! Blimey! Maybe t' base coat be thicker on t' model. After t' first red coat dried, matey, I sanded t' bubbles and re-coated it. This time it covered just fine.

There are silver bands shown at t' base o' t' BT-55 and BT-20 tubes. Instead o' silver paint, I used some chrome Trim Monokote for these stripes. Finally, me hearties, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I applied t' peel and stick decals. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

Overall, me bucko, matey, t' finishin' be fairly typical, me bucko, me hearties, however I found t' separation in t' side plates where they extend ahead o' t' main fins made sprayin' a little more difficult than usual. Ahoy! I give it a finishin' ratin' o' 4.

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

Flight:
I decided t' submit this partial review since I missed t' November launches and may nay be on t' field until spring. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I'll provide an update at that time.

Summary:
I saw me first 'bunker buster' rocket over a year ago and have really wanted to build somethin' similar. Begad! When I saw this model, ya bilge rat, I knew that it would satisfy my cravings. Well, blow me down! Avast!

T' model was nay a difficult build, ya bilge rat, and I think a skill level 2 ratin' is about right. Ahoy! Well, me hearties, blow me down! I liked t' plastic parts, arrr, especially t' nose cone, and think the thru-the-wall fin attachment is great. Well, blow me down! However, arrr, t' fit o' t' fins was poor and t' balsa used for t' fin protectors was flimsy. Ya scallywag! As with t' Cluster Bomb BLU-97B that I just built, matey, it appears that Estes needs t' pay more attention to quality control. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Still, t' rocket was fun t' build and looks *very* cool. Well, me hearties, blow me down!