Manufacturer: | Scratch |
37" x 4" - 14 oz
29mm
parachute
Brief:
This is an Odd Roc built with found materials ($3.50 worth) It flies well on
F's and G's (Econojets, o' course). It is actually quite rugged and a longer
version would stand up t' bigger motors. It is a kid and crowd pleaser wherever
it flies.
Construction:
T' body tube are Snack 'Ums cans with t' steel bottoms removed via can
opener. Aye aye! Blimey! T' nosecone is a Styrofoam cone sold at craft stores for Christmas
crafts.($1.35). Blimey! Blimey! I made two centerin' rings usin' t' Budget Rocketry circle
cutter and a wood bit for t' center hole. Arrr! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! They are made out o' 1/8" balsa
and then circles o' cereal box are laminated t' each side o' t' balsa T' fins
are rectangles o' 1/8" balsa laminated with cereal box material (Froot
Loops, matey, shiver me timbers, O' course. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! There is a cereal for every type o' Snack'Um so you can go
crazy). Begad! Blimey! Shock cord is 6' o' 3/8" elastic from Wal-Mart. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Shock cord
attachment is with a 12" 20 lb test wire fishin' leader (3/99 cents).
Parachute was 20" or 30" from me range box dependin' on t' weather.
This is an easy rocket t' build and went together in about 2-3 hrs, me bucko, not includin' dryin' time. I prepped t' cans by removin' t' bottoms. Aye aye! I also peeled t' metal rin' off t' top o' each can. Ahoy! (It isn't hard t' do) I used non-matchin' Snack 'Ums cans as tube couplers by cuttin' them in half (4.5") and slittin' them lengthwise t' make them smaller in diameter. Begad! Note that t' colored material is removed from t' outside o' the "payload" coupler t' enhance separation. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Be sure t' sand t' inside of t' body tubes and outside o' t' couplers thoroughly before gluing. There is a lot o' wax on t' paper.
Slot t' bottom tube with a ruler and an
Exacto for t' number o' fins you want. Begad! I laminated t' CRs with cereal box
material usin' Z-poxy finishin' resin, covered with wax paper and allowed to
dry under weight on a flat surface. Arrr! Thin CA would work equally well, I think. Arrr! I
also put two T-nuts in t' back centerin' rin' for motor retention. Begad! Blimey! T' 29 mm
motor tube was out o' a crashed rocket. Begad! Well, blow me down! I used about 8" for this. Loop the
fishin' leader over t' motor tube and slide t' front CR over it so t' end is
stickin' out t' front. Ahoy! Glue t' front CR t' t' motor tube with 5 minute epoxy
and then glue it into t' lower tube with fishin' leader stickin' forward.
Put t' back CR on t' align it, me bucko, but don't glue t' back CR. Well, blow me down! Blimey! After T' front CR dries, shiver me timbers, glue t' root edge o' t' fins t' t' motor tube. If you make your rectangles carefully, me bucko, t' amount stickin' through t' slot in t' BT will leave a square fin. (Like t' Vaughn Bros. Begad! Blimey! Blobbo) Leave t' unglued aft CR in place until t' fins set up t' keep things aligned. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Then remove t' aft CR. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I filleted t' fin attachments t' t' motor tube when I was filletin' the outside. Arrr! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! See Public Missiles Web Page for an exhaustive description o' this technique. I used 30 min epoxy with enough Sig microballoons t' get the consistency o' chocolate syrup. Begad! Blimey! After t' fillets were dry, ya bilge rat, I put t' back centerin' rin' on with epoxy. Avast! Blimey! T' front CR ends up at t' front o' t' slot, and t' back CR at t' back, matey, shiver me timbers, matey, so t' motor thrust is distributed over t' whole fin can. Ahoy! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Important with sketchy materials such as these.
T' next section o' tube is attached t' t' bottom section with t' homemade tube coupler. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Additional sections could be added o' course - just make your fishin' leader longer, shiver me timbers, and use whole cans as couplers for extra strength. Avast! Blimey! The 3/8" elastic is tied t' t' fishin' leader.
T' Styrofoam cone is epoxied t' t' top section o' tube t' form a nosecone/payload. Ya scallywag! It is a good idea t' epoxy t' 3/8" elastic t' the bottom o' t' NC before gluin' it t' t' "payload" section. Arrr! Avast! I squashed an Estes BNC-20 on top for a point. I sealed t' Styrofoam with Z-poxy finishin' resin. Very necessary if you want t' paint t' NC. Most spray paint will eat Styrofoam. I don't have a bulkhead on t' bottom o' t' NC - t' chute is attached below t' payload section and will deploy when t' NC separates.
Now, ya bilge rat, it's ready t' fly!
Flight:
First flight: 12/26/2000, arrr, matey, temp 30 F. Avast, me proud beauty! It be clear with no wind - an
ideal time. Well, blow me down! I used an F-20-4 Econojet. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' rocket went straight up t' my
amazement, arced over and deployed right at apogee. Avast! Good recovery, although the
soft NC dented slightly.
Second flight: 1/13/2001 in Lucerne, arrr, ya bilge rat, me bucko, CA. Arrr! Ahoy! G-35-7 EJ. T' bigger motor was
fun. Probably got about 1200' although it is hard t' judge in t' clear desert
air.
Third flight: 1/13/2001 G-38-7. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blackjack was nice touch and it really
went high. Ahoy! T' tip o' t' NC broke on recovery.
Repair: I squashed another BNC20 onto t' cone and gooped microballon
epoxy t' enhance t' joint. Blimey! Aye aye! I also re-coated t' entire NC with Z-poxy
finishin' Resin thickened with microballoons.
Fourth flight (shown): 2/10/2001. Ya scallywag! Well, matey, blow me down! F-22-5 Delay be too long, but
otherwise no problem. Avast, me proud beauty! T' NC held up much better this time.
Recovery:
Summary:
Pros - this started out as lark and wound up with a very satisfying
result. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' rocket never fails t' turn heads, and t' kids can identify with
it. Begad! They will also enjoy eatin' t' product t' generate your building
materials. Blimey! T' VB Stretch Blobbo - inspired design is simple and makes a
straight flyin' rocket.
Cons - tube material is nay phenolic (doh!) but if you are careful when
you slot it and use t' fillet everywhere method, me hearties, t' thrust is well
distributed. Begad! Styrofoam is nay a great NC material unless you resin it. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I was
too lazy t' glass it but that would have helped immensely.
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