Brief:
T' Ori Striker is a scratchbuilt rocket resemblin' a space fighter. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! She goes up on a 24mm engine and comes down on a 24" parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' finished weight is 4.9oz.

Construction:
T' parts list:

• Midwest balsa 3/32" x 4" x 36" (Which is plenty left over in case o' a screw up)
• BT-5 -- two 5 1/8" nacelle tubes and one 2" spacer tool
• BT-80 Duct tube - 2.6"
• 2 main tubes consistin' o' 18" BT-55 with a coupler
• MMT rings
• 24mm MMT tube
• nose cone
• launch lugs
• Chore Boy (baffle)
• shock cord
• 24" parachute

Cut and mark all the tubes
Cut t' 2.6" duct tube from a BT-80. You'll need t' draw six lines on the end o' one o' t' BT-55 body tubes and 6 "tick marks" on t' ends of the BT-80 duct tube. Begad! T' do this, shiver me timbers, matey, I use VCP. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! With VCP, matey, make two fin wrappers, both havin' 6 fins. Avast! Aye aye! Make one for t' BT and one for t' duct.

Cut two nacelle tubes 5 1/8" long and one 2" piece from t' BT-5. T' 2" piece will be used as a spacer when assemblin' t' wings. Use VCP to make a fin alignment wrapper for t' nacelle. Aye aye! Set it t' make a two finned rocket. Arrr! Ahoy! This will draw lines 180 degrees apart.

Position t' small fin position wrapper at one end o' t' main BT and mark the lines. Begad! Aye aye! Use a door jamb t' extend t' lines. Well, blow me down! Draw one o' t' lines halfway up t' tube for a launch lug. Arrr! Use t' big wrap for t' duct tube and mark the end o' t' tube where t' lines would go. Blimey! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! These points or "tick marks" will help you align t' fins later.

Seal t' ends o' all tubes with CA and sand t' rough edges. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!

From t' EMRR Tip Library:

Glue Use CA around t' inside o' t' body tube for reinforcement. Put CA around an inch inside. Well, blow me down! Avast! Sandin' will be required t' be able t' fit t' nose cone on. Begad! Aye aye! Make sure t' wear gloves when usin' CA.

Glue t' duct fins t' t' body
Glue all 6 fins onto t' main BT. Ahoy! Ahoy! Use t' marks on t' duct tube t' help you align t' fins properly. Use CA t' tack them in place and t' align them. Begad! Avast! Follow up with wood glue. Begad! Apply fillets and sand now. Begad! Begad! You may want t' seal or prime the fins now because this wont be possible once t' BT-80 duct tube is in place.

Build t' wings
Cut four main fins as shown usin' t' fin guide. Ahoy! Make sure t' grain is going the proper direction.[Click here to download t' fin template.]

From t' EMRR Tip Library:

Fins Make sure when cuttin' out fins from balsa sheets that the leadin' edge goes parallel (with) t' grain o' t' balsa, failure t' do this leads t' weak fins, shiver me timbers, which will break easily.

Bevel t' leadin' and trailin' fin edges o' all four fins.

Measure 2.5" on t' nacelles. Blimey! This leaves t' tube 1/8" longer for t' aft end o' t' wings. Avast, me proud beauty!

Usin' t' "spacer tool", glue t' fins t' t' nacelles as shown. Do NOT glue t' spacer tool in place! Tack them in place with CA. Once dry, follow up with wood glue. Blimey! You can apply fillets now or wait until t' rocket is completely assembled.

Glue t' wings t' t' duct
Slightly bevel t' side that touches t' big tube for more contact. Aye aye! Do this by wrappin' a piece o' sand paper around t' duct tube and sandin' t' wings against it. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Glue t' fins/nacelle assembly t' t' duct tube. To

From t' EMRR Tip Library:

If you have a rocket kit that isn't TTW, matey, and you just hate sandin' tubes and stuff, ya bilge rat, get a sharp X-acto knife, matey, and usin' a door frame, matey, draw a pencil line all t' way through t' length o' t' tube where t' fins will be. Then put your fin on (without glue) where it is supposed t' be, take a pencil, arrr, draw out t' thickness o' t' fins on t' top. Ahoy! Then use door knob draw 2 straight parallel lines so it would look like a slot. Ahoy! It's like makin' slot, only this time you lightly cut along t' lines (the thickness o' t' fin) only cuttin' t' first layer off. Then peel off that first layer. Arrr! Then glue as usual. Ahoy! This should allow t' glue t' soak in a lot. Avast, me proud beauty! - T.F.

Assemble a 24mm motor mount with 1/8" o' t' tube protrudin' beyond the centerin' ring. Begad! I chose t' make it friction fit so I could use any length motor I want. Begad! Well, blow me down! Glue it onto t' aft o' t' rocket.

Recovery equipment
I used some Chore Boy scourin' pad material for an ejection baffle. Blimey! This adds weight and is only an option. Arrr! Usin' Chore Boy pads allow you t' never need ejection wadding. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I you decide t' use it, me bucko, push it all t' way down t' t' motor mount area with a dowel. Begad! I used a 48" length o' 1/4" shock cord glued in usin' t' age-old Estes method. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I chose t' use a 24" Estes parachute to finish off t' recovery system.

Finishing:
I painted t' entire rocket yellow. Ya scallywag! Once t' paint is dry, mask off t' areas seen and paint with satin black. T' ends o' t' nacelles and t' motor area are painted with Testor's neon orange. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' decals I used are a selection from Sirius Rocketry decal sheet #D-0005 and some stickers from t' Estes Outlander. I built t' Outlander and used a Sirius Rocketry "Mars Lander 2" decal sheet. Well, matey, blow me down! (See here for details.)

Flight:
T' first flight be on a C6-3 usin' an adaptor. Ahoy! Surprisingly, it flew well on such a small motor but t' ejection was a bit late. Well, blow me down! T' second flight was on a C11-3. This time t' delay was right there. T' third and final flight o' the day was on a D12-5. Arrr! T' delay was a bit early, but t' flight was sweet.