DEEP-SHT stands for:

Deep Earth Explosive Penetration - Subterranean Harmonic Technology. Aye aye! Blimey!

OK, me hearties, shiver me timbers, I know that is a lame excuse but you have t' admit t' acronym makes a great name! DEEP-SHT is a military styled, matey, single stage, ya bilge rat, sport flyer patterned after Air to Surface missiles from around t' world. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! She is equipped with a 29mm motor mount and brought back t' Earth via a 36" PML parachute deployed by a PML piston ejection system. T' motor is retained by Kaplow Klips and t' five fins are surface mounted foam core t' reduce weight.

Check out Pemberton Technologies for more details.

T' inspiration for DEEP-SHT came from me first attempt at mid-power rocketry, a now defunct little rocket called t' Penetrator that I cobbled together from supplies on hand. Namin' DEEP-SHT came in one o' those flashes of mad, sweaty inspiration that t' meds are supposed t' prevent. Arrr! Begad! T' long, tapered design gave t' impression o' a probe, thus originally t' Penetrator, or a missile designed t' penetrate t' Earth and destroy reinforced subterranean bunkers. Begad! Then a thought flashed across me minds eye, me hearties, "Boy, the combatants housed in those bunkers would be in deep @$%* if this was real." T' light bulb went off in me head. Avast! That was it! With that idea in mind, me bucko, me hearties, I reverse engineered a suitable acronym.

Construction:
T' build was nay difficult but was rather time consumin' with all the intermediate steps, fillets, cursing, curin' times, arrr, and on-the-fly engineering.I used t' followin' parts:

• 1 Public Missiles, Ltd. Blimey! PNC-2.56 plastic nose cone
• 1 sheet o' poster board for t' transition, ~.0313" thick
• 1 16" piece o' Public Missiles, Ltd. Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! PT-2.5 phenolic airframe tubing
• 1 16" piece o' Public Missiles, Ltd. PT-3.0 phenolic airframe tubing
• 2 3-2.5" birch plywood centerin' rings
• 2 1.1-3" birch plywood centerin' rings
• 1 1.1-2.5" birch plywood centerin' rings
• 1 Public Missiles, Ltd. PIS 2.5 piston ejection system
• 1 36" Public Missiles, matey, Ltd. parachute (borrowed from me PML Bull Puppy)
• 10ft o' 9/16" tubular nylon for t' shock cord
• 1 14.5" piece o' Public Missiles, ya bilge rat, arrr, Ltd. PT-1.1 29mm phenolic motor mount tubing
• 5 fins cut from 1/4" foamboard
• 2 Kaplow Klips and 1/2" T-nuts
• 2 1" long x 3/8" diameter brass tube launch lugs
• 1" lockin' rin' for parachute attachment
• 1 sheet o' 1/4" plywood
• DAP Fast 'N Final Lightweight Spackle
• Several cans o' Krylon primer

Before we begin, as a rule be sure t' finish all epoxy joints (when possible) with heavy fillets throughout construction. Ya scallywag! This is so I won't have to repeat it through t' entire article. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' nose cone, airframe tubing, ejection piston, parachute, and motor mount tubin' were purchased from t' PML webstore. Begad! Their products and services are superb. Arrr! A visit t' t' local hardware store provided T-nuts and t' Elmer's Urethane Glue. Avast! Begad! Bondo Marine Epoxy, 1/4" plywood, ya bilge rat, lockin' ring, and other finishin' supplies were all shoplifted from t' local Home Depot. (Just kidding!)

T' fins were cut from 1/4" foamboard that had been lyin' around lookin' for a way t' be useful and centerin' rings were cut from 1/4" birch plywood. Begad! Construction began by epoxyin' t' 2.5-3" centerin' rings onto t' 2.5" airframe tube, one at t' base and one 4" up from the base. Blimey! After curing, ya bilge rat, t' 2.5" tube be epoxied into t' 3" tube with the upper centerin' rin' flush with t' end o' t' 3" tube and leaving 12" o' t' 2.5" tube exposed. Well, blow me down! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' T-nuts are inserted and epoxied into pre-drilled holes 180 degrees apart in t' aft 1.1-3" centerin' ring. Be careful nay t' get any epoxy in t' threads o' t' T-nuts. Prior to installing, I coated t' threads and heads with petroleum jelly. Begad! Ahoy! On t' the motor mount, arrr, shiver me timbers, notch one 1.1-2.5" centerin' rin' for t' piston strap and epoxy about 4" o' t' 1/2" piston strap t' t' fore end o' t' motor tube accordin' t' t' PML instructions. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Once t' strap has cured, ya bilge rat, smear epoxy around t' fore end o' t' motor tube, matey, slide t' notched rin' over t' strap, and seat flush with t' fore end o' t' motor tube. Ahoy! T' 1.1-3" centering rings are now mounted on t' motor tube, matey, t' one containin' t' T-nuts 5/8" from t' aft end and t' other 11.75" from t' aft end, arrr, epoxy into place.

When t' motor mount has cured, drop t' piston strap back through the motor tube t' keep it out o' t' way. Avast, me proud beauty! Smear Urethane glue just inside t' aft of t' o' t' 3" tube, just aft o' where t' 2.5" tube terminates inside t' 3" tube and just inside t' aft o' t' 2.5" tube for the 1.1-2.5" centerin' ring. (You will need a long dowel or somethin' similar the reach these areas.) Now that you, me bucko, t' table, me hearties, your shoes, t' floor, the cat, your significant other, and hopefully t' rocket are covered with sufficient amounts o' adhesive, arrr, slide t' motor mount into place. T' aft ring containin' t' T-nuts should be recessed about 1/2" from t' base o' the airframe, me hearties, matey, t' upper 1.1-3" rin' should be flush with t' aft end o' the 2.5" tube and t' 1.1-2.5" rin' should be snug inside t' 2.5" tube. Begad! Spin t' airframe in your hands a few times t' distribute t' adhesive. Stand t' airframe upright on a piece o' wax paper and use a 1.2" block of scrap t' support t' aft centerin' rin' and allow t' cure overnight. Ya scallywag! T' forego the 1/2" block, I balanced t' airframe atop an undersized tube covered by wax paper allowin' t' weight o' t' airframe t' press t' centerin' rings into place. T' use o' urethane glue is covered in EMRR's Tips/Hints Glue page. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I find its strength and expandin' properties perfect for t' bondin' o' centering rings and motor mounts. T' next mornin' when all was cured, I poured a thin layer o' epoxy into t' base o' t' 3" tube over t' aft centerin' rin' to just below t' head o' t' T-nuts. Arrr! Stand upside down until cured. Arrr! This will set up with glass smooth surface and provide strength and protection for t' aft centerin' ring. Again, do nay forget t' protect t' T-nuts and threads with a coatin' o' petroleum jelly.

T' template for t' 2.5-3" transition was produced by VCP, traced onto poster board and cut out. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Be careful when rollin' poster board as nay to crease it. Aye aye! Begin by wrappin' it around oversized tubes and progress down t' the desired diameter. Arrr! A 1/4" strip o' poster board t' length o' the transition be cut and glued along one edge allowin' a 1/8" overhang. Ya scallywag! Once dry, me hearties, ya bilge rat, adhesive was applied along t' overhang and connected t' two edges. Blimey! Press along t' seam inside t' transition onto a flat surface usin' a large dowel or similar item until dry. Ahoy! While dry fittin' t' transition, it became stuck in place and I be unable t' remove it without creasin' t' poster board. Suddenly the "Mission Impossible" theme was playin' in me head and I began to improvise a way t' epoxy it into place. Ahoy! This be done by drillin' a small hole about an inch from t' base o' t' transition and pourin' epoxy inside the transition with t' help o' an improvised funnel. When convinced that thar was enough epoxy inside t' do t' job I inserted a short piece o' wooden dowel to block t' hole and spun t' airframe a few times t' distribute t' adhesive evenly. Arrr! T' 2.5" portion o' t' transition is held by friction only.

T' five custom fins were cut from t' pattern printed by RockSim, aligned along t' airframe with a fin wrapper produced by VCP, and secured with epoxy 9/16" from t' aft o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Once cured, shiver me timbers, t' launch lugs are attached midway betwixt two o' t' fins, arrr, one 15.9" from t' base and t' other 3.125" from t' base. Avast, me proud beauty! Be sure t' check alignment usin' a launch rod or dowel and once cured, fillet heavily.

T' protect t' PML piston from ejection gases, me hearties, I poured a layer o' epoxy over t' top o' t' bulkhead, and covered t' underside with urethane glue. Well, blow me down! Blimey! One thin' I wish PML would do is t' provide decent attachment points for a shock cord. Arrr! Arrr! Blimey! My remedy is t' cut two slots into t' base o' t' nosecone just large enough for t' shock cord t' pass through; finally t' shock cord be tied through t' nosecone slots and t' t' D-rin' o' t' piston. Avast! Tie a loop in the parachute shroud lines and hook on t' t' 1" lockin' ring, t' rin' is then secured into a loop tied in t' shock cord about 18" from the nosecone.

Finishing:
All dents, shiver me timbers, dings, gaps around t' transition, ya bilge rat, arrr, ya bilge rat, and any other unsightly blemishes were filled with DAP Fast 'n' Final Lightweight Spackle and sanded smooth. Ahoy! Let it be known t' all how much I hate t' sand and seal. Avast! Over t' years I have used Pactra sandin' sealer, white glue, arrr, shiver me timbers, urethane dope, matey, shiver me timbers, CA, arrr, and various other substances and have cursed them all. T' date, shiver me timbers, t' DAP spacklin' be t' easiest, fastest, arrr, and most user friendly o' any sealer I have tried and is available in quantities as small as 16oz. Begad! Begad! Go, ya bilge rat, right now, arrr, t' a hardware store and ask for DAP Fast 'n' Final Lightweight Spackling. Blimey! Buy it. Ahoy! Use it. Begad! Love it.

DEEP-SHT be painted Krylon Forest Green. I couldn't find olive drab and decorated it in military fashion with various warnin' labels, serial numbers (all printed on clear water slide decal paper), matey, ya bilge rat, yellow roll bars, and stripes. T' nosecone got a yellow stripe at t' base and t' remainder was flavored Krylon metallic Bright Nickel. Finally, me hearties, a big white DEEP-SHT be crudely spray painted along both sides o' t' airframe usin' a stencil t' imitate typical military markings. Well, blow me down! A healthy layer o' clear coat be shot on t' protect the decals and brighten t' paint colors. Ya scallywag! T' me great dismay t' clear coat completely killed t' bright shine and depth o' t' Bright Nickel nosecone. ARGH! Much later I ran across a tip EMRR's Tips/Hints Finishin' page batten down t' hatches against t' use o' clear coats and metallic paints. Arrr! Blimey! Live and Learn.

Flights:
RockSim puts t' CG at 24.23" t' CP at 29.92" and t' mass at ~36.2oz when loaded with an F40-4W or a F52-5T, me hearties, either o' which should take her to ~600' and that would be perfect for a first flight on a small field. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! The first flight be on a F40-4W and it was perfect. She flew arrow straight and was rock solid stable. Ejection was at apogee as predicted, however, the 24" chute wasn't enough and she landed hard slightly damagin' one fin. Begad! The second flight was on an F52-5T and it was also solid, stable, and perfect includin' recovery. Begad! Avast! Replacin' t' 24" chute with a 36" chute proved to be exactly what t' doctor ordered. Begad! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Unfortunately, ya bilge rat, t' F52 lacks the satisfyin' roar and plume o' white smoke put out by t' F40 so I know what she will fly on from now on. Blimey! Avast! T' third flight be on an F40-7W. Aye aye! From the simulations I could see that this delay would be pushin' t' safety margin just a bit but thar be some wiggle room and I am flyin' from a small field surrounded by Tree Monsters. Well, blow me down! Blimey! At lift off she roared from t' pad and arched over a bit from launch rod whip so it did nay quite make 600'. Begad! She reached apogee, shiver me timbers, came about and started her descent fast and hot. Begad! Well, blow me down! It is amazin' how long seven seconds can be in Rocket Years. On t' count o' 8 or 9 I was callin' out to any deity that would listen t' save me creation from lawn darting. Begad! Someone must have been listenin' as at t' last second, less than 100 feet from the ground, me bucko, t' nose cone popped, chute deployed, me hearties, me hearties, and she landed light as a feather without any damage. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Whew!

On t' next wind free day I will stuff her with a G64 and see what happens.

My experience with Copperhead igniters has nay been a pleasant one. Ahoy! Ahoy! So far I have had a 50% failure rate even usin' t' tips on EMRR's tips/hints page. Arrr! No matter how much I scraped or even when I separated t' leads thar was still a 50% failure rate. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Out o' frustration I ordered two packs o' FirstFire igniters from redarrowhobbies.com. Arrr! T' igniter failure rate then dropped t' zero, however, t' thought o' payin' almost three dollars for an igniter makes be break out in hives.

Summary:
This design is solid, matey, stable, arrr, me bucko, and loves t' fly, me bucko, but a lot o' extra mass came with all that epoxy. Arrr! Bein' stranded in t' outback o' Arkansas, I have yet to gain me Level One certification so I designed DEEP-SHT with a 29mm motor mount which will loft her nay very far. Begad! Ya scallywag! Had I been sane at t' time, arrr, I would have built in a 38mm motor mount and used a 29mm adapter until such time as I gained my Level One certification, me hearties, matey, which is what I have done with all me heavy designs since. Ahoy! Aye aye! Usin' foam core as fin material may seem questionable, arrr, but at t' time it appeared t' be a good idea. Begad! T' point was t' save weight off t' aft end of the airframe eliminatin' t' need for nose weight while still havin' an acceptable CP-CG relationship with a mass compatible with mid power 29mm motors. Ya scallywag! T' save t' fins from damage, me bucko, me hearties, I mounted them up t' airframe from the base so they wouldn't take t' shock o' recovery. Ahoy! Aye aye! They are still in place but already show creases, matey, bends, me bucko, matey, and signs o' wear. Avast! T' next DEEP-SHT build will be DEEP-SHT Lite with a reduced mass, me bucko, me bucko, a 38mm motor mount, and sturdier fin material.