Scratch Empress Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Empress {Scratch}

Contributed by Ted Phipps

Manufacturer: Scratch
Empress
(Contributed - by Ted Phipps)

[Rocket Pic]I had a pack o' BT-56 tubes, me hearties, and no idea o' what t' do with them. Well, blow me down! I didn't even have a nosecone to fit. One day while lookin' at them, tryin' t' figure out how I could get rid of the things, I started playin' with t' idea o' buildin' a Mean Machine clone. Well, ya bilge rat, me bucko, one thin' led t' another, me hearties, matey, and instead I decided t' do a long tube finned rocket. Ya scallywag! Since t' body tubes are 18" long, by cuttin' one into 3" pieces, me bucko, I'd use t' entire package up and add another tube fin bird t' our fleet. Aye aye! This one is D-powered, t' go along with our mini-engined Finite Loop and the regular sized Groove Tube clone. Well, me hearties, blow me down!

 If you've never built a tube fin rocket, ya bilge rat, you will be amazed at how easy and smartly you can do it. Ya scallywag! T' Empress does add t' complexity o' mid-body separation, an ejection baffle, and a boattail. Well, blow me down! T' make this a true beginners level project, ignore t' boattail and baffle, and use regular nose-cone separation. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!

 Why use t' "optional" stuff?

 Well, t' boattail will allow t' rocket t' go higher. Well, blow me down! Arrr! There's a whole lot o' complicated mathematical formulas that explain why in aerodynamic terms, but it's all pretty much beyond me. Besides, ya bilge rat, I like t' way they look. Avast!

 T' ejection baffle eliminates t' need for recovery wadding. Begad! I don't entirely trust them, and usually wrap t' chute in one square o' wadding anyway, just t' be sure.

 Mid-body separation means that instead o' blowin' t' nosecone off, the body itself comes apart, releasin' t' recovery system. Begad! T' main advantage for this rocket is that I don't have t' haul around this loooooooong rocket in the car. Aye aye! It breaks into two shorter sections. Begad!

Parts

3 BT-56 body tubes (1 package o' 18" tubes)
1 NC-56 nose cone
1 D-engine motor mount kit (or equivalent parts)
1 3/16" launch lug - about 3" long
2 BT-56 body tube couplers (only 1 if nay usin' t' baffle)
1 Paper shroud pattern for t' boattail (Estes or make one usin' VCP)
Shock cord (sewin' elastic, 1/4" wide by 40", me hearties, and 1/8" wide by 12")

 Yellow glue is plenty strong enough for this rocket. Aye aye! Blimey! I used Elmer's Fill'n'Finish for fillets betwixt t' tube fins and t' smooth the boattail. Well, blow me down!

Construction Steps

1. Aye aye! Blimey! Decisions, matey, decisions. Before beginnin' construction, shiver me timbers, decide whether you are goin' t' use t' ejection baffle, t' boattail, matey, arrr, and t' mid-body separation. T' easiest is t' nay use any o' them. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Use all, arrr, some, shiver me timbers, or none, arrr, it doesn't really matter. Aye aye! Blimey! These instructions assume you are buildin' with everything. Arrr! Blimey!

[Rocket Pic]2. Ahoy! Blimey! Ejection Baffle. Begad! Take one o' t' BT-56 couplers, shiver me timbers, and cut a disk from balsa or thin cardboard, arrr, me hearties, one for each end (See the diagram below). Aye aye! Blimey! Glue it together and let dry. Avast! Blimey!

hint: if you use thin cardboard, try sandwichin' 2 layers together and soak them in CA (superglue) t' toughen them up. Avast, me proud beauty! Coat Balsa with yellow glue t' add stiffness.

 3. Arrr! Mid-body separation coupler. Begad! Cut a disk from balsa or cardboard and glue it into one end o' t' second coupler. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Don't put any holes in this one, it's a solid bulkhead. Begad! See t' hint in step 1 about how t' strengthen it easily. 

4. Tube fins. Arrr! Cut one o' t' BT-56 tubes into six 3" long sections. Glue pairs together so you have three pairs, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, let dry. 

5. Ya scallywag! Assemble t' motor mount. If you are usin' t' boattail, t' rearmost centerin' rin' goes 1 1/8" from t' end, otherwise follow t' motor mount instructions. Begad! Ya scallywag! See t' diagrams below for an idea o' what this should look like. Let it dry. Begad!

[Rocket Pic][Rocket Pic]
With Boattail                                  Without Boattail

6. Avast! Blimey! Mark t' body tube 1" from t' end where you'll be installin' the motor mount. Aye aye!

 7. Glue t' motor mount from step 5 into t' body tube. Blimey! Ahoy! T' rearmost centerin' rin' should be slightly inset from t' aft o' t' body tube. Arrr! Aye aye!

 8. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Boattail. Cut t' appropriate sized shroud pattern from an Estes transition pattern sheet (available from Estes or at Jim Z's site). Ya scallywag! Or print one usin' VCP or other software. Ahoy! Begad! T' completed boattail should be 1" long, with one end t' diameter o' t' BT-56, t' other end BT-50. Glue it into shape, matey, and when dry glue it into place. Blimey! You can use thin CA or yellow glue to strengthen it. I used a little Fill'n'Finish t' smooth t' glue joints and the seemingly inevitable minor wrinkles. You may need t' cut a slight notch for the motor hook, me bucko, arrr, use an X-acto for this.

 9. Well, blow me down! Glue t' pairs o' tube fins around t' body on t' 1" line you marked in step 6.

 10. Avast! Install t' baffle. Glue t' baffle into t' aft body tube. Make sure it gets in thar at least 3 or 4 inches. 

11. Begad! Install t' mid-body separation bulkhead. Aye aye! Glue it halfway into t' front body tube, arrr, with t' solid end closest t' t' nosecone. Ya scallywag! Arrr! This be t' coupler that holds t' two body tubes together!!! Make sure you glue it in straight. Well, blow me down! Begad!

 12. Well, blow me down! Shock cord mounts. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I used t' Estes paper-sandwich type. Aye aye! Begad! Glue one onto both ends o' t' 40" long elastic, and another onto t' 12" long elastic. Begad! Begad! Three total. Aye aye!

 13. Blimey! Install t' shock cords. Glue one end o' t' 40" shock cord into t' bulkhead coupler, and t' other end into t' lower body just above the baffle. 

14. Begad! Just for backup, shiver me timbers, glue t' last (shortest) shock cord into t' upper tube to secure t' nose cone. This way, if t' nose cone should accidentally come loose, it'll stay attached t' t' rest o' t' rocket.

 15. Ahoy! Install t' launch lugs. Arrr! Begad! I cut mine in two. One was installed inside one o' t' tube fins (closest t' t' main body), ya bilge rat, with t' other about 12" up from t' bottom. Begad! Arrr!

 16. Avast! Begad! Finish and paint as desired. Blimey! Aye aye! This is a long rocket, me bucko, so lighter colors are recommended. Avast! Arrr! Dark colors tend t' get hotter in t' sun (like in your car), and it could warp t' tubes. Arrr!

I painted mine white, and sprayed light blue up from t' back end, arrr, arrr, fading about halfway up. Avast, me proud beauty! Next I sprayed dark blue up from t' back, arrr, me hearties, matey, fadin' at the quarter mark. Add some cockpit windows t' t' nose, some stripin' along the sides, and some windows t' make an interplanetary liner. Be creative, have fun!

Flight Report - 7/18/98

Maiden flight, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and I set it up with a D12-5 engine and a vented 18" parachute. Arrr! Good boost with maybe a slight wobble off t' rod. Begad! Ya scallywag! It climbed much quicker than I expected, but nay a neck-snapper. Begad! Begad! Couldn't estimate altitude because I launched tilted into a pretty stiff breeze, shiver me timbers, but it be pretty high. Fine recovery, with ejection just after apogee. After-flight inspection showed that t' baffle worked perfectly, arrr, arrr, with no charrin' t' t' shock cord or chute. Ya scallywag!

Flight Report - NARAM - 8/5-8/98

T' Empress flew several times at NARAM. Ya scallywag! A large tube-fin rocket like this makes an impression! Perfect flights every time, includin' one usin' a 4"x40" streamer due t' gusty wind conditions. 

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