Brief:
Earth has recently developed Faster Than Light space travel. Ya scallywag! T' United Nations Federation ship, shiver me timbers, t' Pangaea was built t' brin' United Nations delegates and ambassadors on an important diplomatic mission t' meet with representatives from t' three main galactic empires.

This build is an attempt for t' "Design This Spaceship" contest.

I've never tried t' design a rocket from just a picture - especially when you don't have multiple photos that give you a 360 degree view. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I've discovered that this is a very difficult process.

When I first considered participating, ya bilge rat, I looked over all t' designs and tried t' figure out which one provided maximum points. And then I procrastinated - so t' final decision was based on t' easiest.

I printed out t' picture in two sizes. Blimey! Blimey! I started measurin' and figured out t' scale I wanted t' use so I could select t' parts. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I figured t' method t' get t' oval shape was t' use multiple tubes in parallel.

Construction:
Parts you will need:

• BT-40 tube (Semroc)
• BTH-80 tube (Semroc)
• ST-9180 tube (Semroc)
• BT-5 tube (my parts pile - I think they came from Totally Tubular?)
• 3/16" x 6" balsa
• 3/32" x 3" balsa
• 3/32" x 4" basswood
• 1/16" x 3" basswood
• 1/8" dowel
• 1/4" dowel
• Keelhaul®©™® cord
• Elastic shock cord
• Parachute
• Launch Lug (I used 1/8" - I suggest changin' t' 3/16")
• bond paper
• Card Stock paper
• weights (I used BBs)
• BT5 t' BT50 Centerin' rin' (Semroc - 6 pack)(BT5 t' BT 40 is really t' correct size, me hearties, but they were not available. Aye aye! I used t' BT50 and cut/sanded down t' size - you also need some o' t' BT50 size for t' nose cone)
• CR-9115 Centerin' rin' (Semroc)
• Michael's 40% or 50% (prefered)off coupon
• Estes Space Ship One Nosecone (use t' coupon t' get t' kit cheap)

There is one main tube (Semroc size ST9 - close t' a BT50) that runs t' length o' t' rocket. Avast! T' BT80H tube is used t' create t' oval body shape. Avast! Begad! Blimey! Spacers and end caps are made from a mixture o' 3/32" balsa and 3/16" balsa. Begad! Blimey! T' BT40 & BT5 are for t' engines. Engine nacelles were made from t' 1/16" basswood

T' rocket has 2 main fins (3/32" basswood) with top and bottom "stabilizers" (3/32" balsa). Ya scallywag! Avast!

Why t' mix betwixt balsa and basswood - I started by usin' left over balsa that I had. Aye aye! Blimey! When that ran out, me hearties, arrr, I went to Michaels t' get more, but their balsa stock be poor - but they had basswood so that's what I got.

An "exploded view o' t' rocket is shown below. Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! Please note it is nay t' scale, or even proportion, but it will help give you an understandin' o' what pieces are what.

Start by usin' t' attached template (template 1) to cut some o' t' support pieces. Begad! There is a line t' use as a sizin' guide. It is 6" long, so when you print out the template, adjust t' size up/down until t' line is 6". Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! You need t' cut t' center circle first (save these pieces for later) and then t' other circles. Avast! For this step, me bucko, you will use t' inside o' t' tube circles. Aye aye! You will also want to cut out and save t' "triangles" betwixt t' two outer tubes. Aye aye! Begad! I started makin' these pieces from the 3/16" balsa. After t' first one, ya bilge rat, I felt it was too difficult so I made 2 more from t' 3/32" balsa. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Please look at t' followin' picture t' see what I mean by t' triangle pieces - nay shown are t' center circle pieces.

Usin' t' same template as before, ya bilge rat, you need t' cut 3 pieces from t' 3/16" balsa usin' t' outside dimension of t' tube circle and only cuttin' half t' circle. Ahoy! Connect t' two circles so you end up an oval (see t' picture above). Cut t' center ST9 circle. Well, blow me down! Well, arrr, blow me down! These pieces are end caps for t' BT80H/ST9 body. Arrr!

Cut pieces from t' BT80H tube, me bucko, each 7" long.

Check that t' "C" pieces fit inside t' BT80 and on t' ST9 tube. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Use one o' these C pieces t' mark the BT80H tubes. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Mark t' tubes down their length and cut t' tubes lengthwise. Blimey! Check t' fit o' t' BT80H, matey, ST9, me bucko, me bucko, and C pieces together. Blimey! Begad! Sand as necessary t' fit.

Glue two o' t' C pieces into t' BT80H flush with t' ends o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' third C piece in t' middle.

Next cut t' smaller oval and t' 2 circular rings from 3/32" balsa (Transitions Bulkhead Template). Well, blow me down! I beveled t' edges o' these to better align t' edge with t' shrouds.

I had a little trouble with t' shroud that went from round t' "oval". I basically set up t' balsa ends on t' ST9 tube and wrapped paper and taped into place. Begad! I then marked and cut t' paper t' fit. I then used this as a guide t' cut t' real shroud out o' card stock. Arrr! I cut t' card stock a little oversize. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Cut a tab about 1/2" wide. Apply rubber cement t' t' tab and t' t' edges o' t' shroud. Wait for t' glue t' dry and then carefully apply the tab t' one edge o' t' shroud (so half t' tab is over-hanging). Blimey! T' cement is nay forgiving, me hearties, shiver me timbers, so you need t' get it right t' first try. Avast, me proud beauty! Then curl t' shroud and apply it t' t' other half o' t' tab. Begad! I then slid t' shroud back onto the balsa ends and trimed t' fit. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Use t' ST9 as a guide, glue t' shroud t' t' balsa rin' and oval piece. Arrr! Well, blow me down! (templates Conical Shroud Template and Oval Shroud Template)

I also had t' make a transition that was just round t' round. Blimey! While thar are various programs you can get t' do this, I again just used paper and tape, marked and cut t' fit, ya bilge rat, matey, and then cut t' card stock t' match. Avast! Again, use t' tab and rubber cement t' glue this transition together. Do NOT glue t' transition t' t' balsa rin' at this time.

Open t' Space Ship One and remove t' nose cone. Avast! Blimey! Mark t' nose cone at four equidistant points around the shoulder. Centered from these points make marks that will be 1/4" wide. Arrr! Blimey! Measure up from t' shoulder 7/8" and mark t' cone. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel t' cut along t' marks. Arrr! Blimey! Try t' round t' inner corners.

Cut a length o' BT5 tube about 3/4" long. Begad! Glue a BT5 t' BT50 centerin' rin' flush (or 1/16" in from the edge) and another 1/2" down from t' first ring. Avast! Cut a piece o' scrap ST9 about 1 1/2" long. Aye aye! Cut one o' the CR-9115 rings t' 3/8" long. Sand t' pieces t' have a smooth insertion for t' BT5 t' BT50 rings and t' CR-9115 into and onto t' ST9. Avast! Apply some epoxy t' t' edge o' t' BT5 tube (on t' end away from t' centerin' rings. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Be careful nay t' get epoxy onto t' ST9 or CR-9115 parts - these are only bein' used as guides. Well, blow me down! Avast! Slide t' BT5, me hearties, ST9, and CR-9115 into t' nose cone as far as they will go. Avast! T' ST9 and CR-9115 are t' help center t' BT5. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Wait for t' epoxy to dry, arrr, then remove t' ST-9 and CR-9115 (save t' CR-9115 for later). Avast, me proud beauty! Cut a length o' Keelhaul®©™® 8" long. Tie a loop into t' end and some extra knots. Mix up a batch o' epoxy. Blimey! Slide t' Keelhaul®©™® cord into t' BT5 tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Drizzle some epoxy down into t' tube (be careful t' nay get any on t' outside o' t' BT5 to BT50 centerin' rings. I started addin' BBs and epoxy until t' nose cone weighed 0.7 ounces. Ahoy! T' epoxied BBs also help to retain t' Keelhaul®©™® card.

On t' 1/16" basswood, cut t' nacelle pieces 3 3/8" long (Nacelle Template). Well, blow me down! You will need 4 pieces 1/4" wide, 4 pieces 15/16" wide, 2 pieces 1 7/8" wide, and 2 pieces 2 1/4" wide. Avast! Use t' first template t' line up the pieces and glue together. Begad! Avast! You will get a better joint if you bevel some o' t' edges. Avast! I applied a glue fillet t' all the joints (inside and outside).

Next - disaster. Avast, me proud beauty! Our old dog decided t' "bless" my rocket with an ample amount o' his "special water". Time t' make some new shrouds and other pieces. Fortunately, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' contest got extended.

For t' engines, cut 2 pieces o' BT40 2" long, 2 pieces o' BT5 2 5/8" long, and 2 pieces o' 1/8" dowel 3 1/8" long. Arrr! As I indicated in t' parts list, I actually had BT5 t' BT50 centerin' rings. I had t' cut down the rings t' fit t' BT40 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! I used card stock t' make centerin' rings t' hold t' 1/8" dowel into t' BT5 tube (I glued 2 pieces o' card stock together t' make t' "centerin' rings" stronger.) Usin' t' centerin' rings, glue t' dowel, rings, BT5, rings, BT40 together with t' dowel, BT5, and BT40 centered lengthwise. Begad! After t' glue is dry, matey, paint t' engine before assemblin' into t' rocket.

Cut t' win' fins (Win' Template) and stabilizers from t' 3/32 basswood usin' t' attached templates. Avast, me proud beauty! ** NOTE ** After I built me rocket I realized t' wings were heavy. Aye aye! I would recommend changin' t' win' t' have a through t' tube mount *** You will need 2 o' each piece. Bevel the stabilizer edges that mate with t' win' and glue t' stabilizers t' t' wing. Begad! There is an angle guide for the stabilizers provided.

Cut 3 triangle pieces (Triangle and Bridge Template) from t' 3/16" balsa. Avast! Avast! Glue t' 3 pieces together. Arrr! When dry, matey, bevel and round t' edges per t' drawing.

Remember those circles originally cut out from t' 3/16" balsa? Glue 5 together, slightly offsettin' each one. When dry, matey, sand t' steps into smooth slope on t' front, and sand t' create a vertical back. Drill a hole through the unit from side t' side. Well, blow me down! Begad! Glue in a 1 1/8" long piece o' t' 1/8" dowel through t' hole. Arrr! Cut a 1/8" long piece o' t' 1/4" dowel. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Glue this t' t' top. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Round t' bottom t' better fit t' tube. Aye aye! Blimey! This be t' bridge section.

Cut t' 2 detail pieces from 3/32" basswood.

Test fit t' circular, conical transition section on t' ST9 with its balsa ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Slide it down t' tube a bit. Slide t' 3/8" long piece o' CR-9115 from when t' nose cone section was made over t' end o' t' ST9. Blimey! Place it flush with t' tube end - do NOT glue at this time. Slide t' nose cone onto t' end o' t' ST9. It will push the CR-9115 down t' tube slightly. Ahoy! Remove t' nose cone and mark its position. Slide t' transition forward until it touches t' CR-9115 piece. Ya scallywag! Mark t' position o' t' balsa ring. Ahoy! Remove t' CR-9115 and t' transition shroud. Avast, me proud beauty! Usin' the balsa rin' and CR-9115 positions, arrr, cut 2 pieces o' 3/32" basswood t' taper from t' balsa rin' t' t' body tube. These pieces will provide support for t' "bridge" section.

Finally, cut 2 pieces o' 3/32" basswood that are 1/4" x 1/4" and 2 pieces that are 1/4" x 3/8". Ahoy! These glue on top near t' big triangle (see picture for approximate location)

Now t' start puttin' it all together!

Usin' t' marks from before, glue t' transition balsa and t' 2 support pieces t' t' ST9 about 1/4" apart. Mark where t' support pieces are on t' top edge o' t' ST9 for future reference. Arrr! Blimey! Apply a rin' o' glue around t' ring and on t' ST9 tube. Slide t' shroud onto t' rin' and then finally glue t' CR-9115 onto t' ST9.

Glue t' oval t' circular transition onto t' ST9 right behind t' circular transition. Well, blow me down! Line t' oval up with the support pieces (use t' mark made before).

T' next step you need t' prepare for and should dry fit first. Blimey! Slide 2 o' t' 3/16" endcaps onto t' ST9. Slide t' 2 BT80H sections onto t' ST9. Rubber bands come in handy t' hold these in place. Avast! Then slide t' other endcap on t' rear. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Check t' position o' t' BT80H tubes and t' endcaps t' make sure they all can be aligned. Avast, me proud beauty! Once satisfied, apply glue t' t' aft o' t' oval transition, betwixt t' front 2 end cap pieces, t' ends and C sections, and edges o' t' BT80H tubes, and then t' aft end cap. Ya scallywag! Align all t' endcaps and BT80H tubes together and with the oval transition. Arrr! Use t' rubber bands and tape t' secure t' BT80H tubes. Arrr! Blimey! Use tape t' hold t' end caps t' t' BT80H tubes. Avast! Blimey! Once dry, shiver me timbers, sand (again I used a dremel tool) t' front end-caps t' get a rounded edge. Avast, me proud beauty! Make sure t' leave at least 1/8" o' endcap flat on t' BT80H tube side t' glue t' card stock t' finish t' body.

One new technique I used on this rocket was I covered t' nacelles and fins with paper. Avast! I wanted t' strengthen the parts, plus since I was runnin' late I did nay want t' be tied up for multiple days sealin' and sandin' t' balsa. I sprayed t' pieces with 3M Super 77, applied t' copy paper, and cut t' fit. I then sealed t' edges with CA. Begad!

Once t' glue for t' BT80H tubes and endcaps is dry, matey, check t' triangle pieces from t' first cuttin' t' fit. Glue these betwixt t' BT80H tubes. Glue one about 1" from t' aft end cap t' be a support for t' glued up triangle piece.

Glue t' wings onto t' BT80H tubes. Ya scallywag! When dry, arrr, apply a fillet. Begad! Arrr! Then cut some card stock t' wrap around the BT80H/ST9 body (I applied this after t' wings so I would have a win' t' tube glue joint, arrr, me hearties, and nay a win' t' card stock. If you change t' through t' tube you could apply t' shroud first. Avast! I set up t' card stock t' wrap around t' wing joint so t' joint was on t' bottom (a standard 8 1/2 x 11 sheet is nay long enough). Ya scallywag! I applied a thin layer o' wood glue on t' BT80H and t' end-caps and glued t' card stock t' t' top. I used some tape t' secure t' card stock while the glue was drying. Once dry, ya bilge rat, I cut another piece o' card stock t' finish covin' t' bottom (again, applyin' glue to the BT80H and end-caps. Aye aye! Next, matey, ya bilge rat, glue t' engines t' t' BT80H so t' center is in line with t' and will be centered within t' nacelles. Finally, matey, shiver me timbers, glue t' nacelles onto t' BT80H. T' corner should line up with t' win' and t' wing and nacelle will be touching.

Glue t' aft triangle centered betwixt t' BT80H and even with t' end.

T' get t' stepped look in t' front, matey, ya bilge rat, I glued a length o' Keelhaul®©™® cord at t' joint o' t' 2 transitions.

Glue t' detail pieces on t' top front. Avast, me proud beauty! They should be restin' on t' supports under t' shroud. Arrr! Glue t' bridge section in front o' t' detail pieces.

I finally cut t' ST9 tube so only 1" extended beyond t' aft end cap.

Use some o' this extra ST9 t' make an engine block. Avast! I cut two 1/4" wide sections. Arrr! Ahoy! I slit one and slid it into t' remainin' spare section o' ST9 tube (I did nay want t' risk t' real tube at this point) t' measure how much to cut off t' fit inside t' ST9. Blimey! I slit t' other and cut it down t' size t' fit inside t' first slit piece. I glued the two together with t' slits on opposite sides. Well, blow me down! Once dry, I then glued t' engine block into t' rocket usin' the standard technique (use a scrap piece o' balsa t' apply glue a little over 2" down, use a spent casin' marked 1/4" from t' aft end, ya bilge rat, push t' rin' in with t' spent casin' until even with t' mark and then smartly remove the casing).

I used a standard Estes style trifold with over 2' o' 1/4" elastic glued into t' front o' t' ST9 for a shock cord. Begad! Begad! This is then tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™® cord attached t' t' nose cone. Begad! This point is where you will attach t' parachute. Well, blow me down! Avast! I have multiple "stock" chutes with snap swivels that I reuse from rocket t' rocket.

Finally, matey, me hearties, shiver me timbers, I glued a 6" length o' 1/8" launch lug on t' bottom. Arrr! Begad! ** NOTE *** - When I flew t' rocket, I found it was a bit too heavy for a 1/8" rod - I would update t' a 3/16" launch lug *** I lined it up with the bottom o' t' BT80H tube (I wanted t' tube t' provide support, nay just t' card stock). Avast, me proud beauty! This does make t' launch lug off-center from t' engine. Avast! Begad! I cut a piece o' 1/8" dowel t' same length and glued it on t' other side. The contest picture does nay show t' aft or bottom so I have no idea what it should look like, but t' dowel balanced out the layout. Assume they are conduits for t' operation o' t' ship :-).

Finishing:
Use wood filler t' fill in t' gaps around t' aft triangle and t' front detail pieces t' t' card stock.

With t' paper coverin' and shrouds, shiver me timbers, thar be nay a lot o' exposed balsa. Aye aye! What was visible I used Elmer's wood filler (thinned down). Ahoy! A light white primer and some flat white paint provided t' base coat.

I flew t' rocket with just this painting. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! After t' flight (and repair - see below), arrr, I added t' light blue and gray details shown in t' picture. Well, blow me down! I used a Sharpie t' make t' port holes. I just use a pencil t' draw in some o' the other details. Below is a closeup o' t' nosecone and bridge area

Flight:
I needed t' go fly this bird t' get things done for t' Design This Spaceship contest. It was about 20 degrees out with 10 ~ 15 mph winds, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, matey, so t' windchill factor was COLD. Begad! Ahoy! There was a dustin' o' snow on t' ground. Avast, me proud beauty! Nay enough to provide a soft landing, but enough t' melt on your pants if you kneel t' wrong way. Nay t' most ideal flyin' weather (a bit windier than I prefer). Ahoy! I went t' me local school yard and set up. Well, blow me down! Begad! Unfortunately, I discovered before I left my daughter had borrowed me camera so I could nay get any pictures at t' launch site.

I built t' rocket t' use 24mm motors. Arrr! There is no engine hook, shiver me timbers, so t' motor has t' be friction fit. Arrr! I loaded the rocket with waddin' (dog barf), and then t' parachute. My first plan was t' use an 18" chute but it be very stiff from t' cold and I was concerned about it openin' so I downsized t' a 12". Begad! Wind gusts o' over 20mph kept tryin' t' blow me stuff away. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! I was thinkin' o' waitin' until later, but t' weather forcast was for colder temperatures and winds in t' 25 ~ 35 mph. Aye aye!

I used a D12-3 and used tape t' secure t' motor. Avast! I had problems with t' tape due t' t' cold. Arrr! I connected the leads t' t' igniter, me hearties, me hearties, but when I tried t' move back t' wire was stiff and pulled off t' igniter. Ahoy! Begad! I pulled and straightened out t' wires, shiver me timbers, reconnected t' t' igniter and waited for a lull in t' wind. I pushed t' button and nothin' happened. Ya scallywag! I pressed again and held t' button. Blimey! I wind started t' pick up so I decided t' release t' button to wait - just as it ignited. There was some rod whip - I should have used lugs for a 3/16" rod. Ahoy! It flew up nice and straight and ejection be after apogee. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! T' chute opened but with t' wind it was driftin' away fast. I chased it as it was comin' down. Begad! T' descent rate be higher than I wanted. Ahoy! Oh, and did I mention it was bloddy cold out? No fluffy grass or soft, muddy dirt. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! No thick layer o' snow. Begad! Well, blow me down! Nooo. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! T' ground be rock hard! One stabilizer broke off and the win' was just barely hangin' on. Begad! Arrr! T' other win' joint t' t' body tube was cracked. In some ways I was glad it broke - it gave me an excuse t' come in from t' cold!!!

I got home and I've repaired t' rocket. I finished breakin' t' cracked joint and used epoxy t' glue t' wings back on. I made dams with tape and added epoxy fillets for t' wing/tube joint. Arrr! Begad! I re-primed and re-painted with flat white. Avast! I then added t' marking/paintin' details. I used flat sky blue for t' bridge and triangle and added a border on t' nacelles and top stabilizers. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I added a few o' t' grey rectangles on t' nacelles and wings. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Some o' t' other details I just drew in with pencil.

Now, can I fly again? Weather, overtime at work, arrr, “honey do” list with “its got t' be done before the relatives get here.” T' last Sunday before t' contest ends – t' weather is good and t' wife went to the store. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Can I sneak out? I start gettin' ready t' leave when she returns. Begad! Blimey! “Uhm – I have t' go run an errand – be back soon” and I’m off t' t' school yard. Ahoy! Blimey! Low winds, temperature in t' mid-thirties – not too bad. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I set up and launch. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

Nice straight flight on a D12-3. Avast, me proud beauty! Deployment about a second after apogee. Begad! Ya scallywag! I used an 18” chute this time. Descent was slower, me hearties, but I still cracked one o' t' win' joints. It did nay come off, but needs work before another flight. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I put everythin' into t' trunk o' t' car and return home and... BUSTED. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! T' wife asks “How did the rocket fly?” Oh well – at least she didn’t yell at me – she understood that I had a deadline for finishin' t' rocket for a contest. Begad! Begad! I guess she knows me too well. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! (But I have been warned one way or another that certain things HAVE TO BE DONE by this Saturday.

Summary:
This be an interestin' project involvin' many firsts for me. If I be t' make another copy, I would make t' main wings a "through t' tube" design. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! And make t' launch lug for at least a 3/16" rod - thar was too much weight for a 1/8". Makin' t' C shaped centerin' rings and slittin' t' body tube t' create t' oval shape does give me some ideas for other designs. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Developin' t' shrouds for t' transitions involvin' a round t' oval was also interesting.