Well, me bucko, I just finished one o' me more rewardin' projects, matey, me bucko, that bein' a flyin' V-1 Buzz Bomb. A friend o' mine is into vacu-formin' styrene, and made up t' body and pulse jet intake on a wood lathe, arrr, and molded me some pieces, on t' condition I would try t' see if I could make it fly. Well, blow me down! Dry weight be goin' t' be around 11oz.
I used a 24mm motor tube (aerotech) and installed a thrust ring, and motor hook held in with fiberglass tape and CA. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I decided on makin' t' wings and tail and pulse jet supports out o' 1/8" basswood, for it's strength nay much less than plywood, me bucko, and a weight nay much more than balsa. Well, blow me down! I glued t' wings and tail surfaces and filleted t' t' 24mm core tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Since this be a home built mold, thar were some imperfections in t' moldin' t' be worked around, arrr, and it took a while t' trim them so t' two halves o' t' body and pulse jet were flush.
I fitted t' two halves o' t' pulse jet intake, arrr, and made a centerin' rin' out o' styrene t' center t' Estes BT-60 for t' outlet pipe. Arrr! It runs t' full length o' t' pulsejet, and is slotted t' allow t' supports t' run through t' wall and glue on t' inside opposite wall o' t' pulsejet. T' pulsejet is hollow, and these supports act as fins inside t' tube, as well as make it strong. Blimey! I glued a coupler in t' aft end o' t' BT-60 t' strengthen it.
I fitted t' styrene body halves, and glued tabs inside t' locate t' halves together, and slotted them for t' wings, tail, and forward pulsejet support. Begad! I tied a piece o' 90# dacron fishin' line around t' 24mm tube, just forward o' t' forward pulse jet intake for shock line attachment. At this point t' back half hangs slightly tail down for a flat landin' t' minimize win' and tail damage.
I used a styrene forward centerin' rin' since it wasn't takin' any real structural strain. Aye aye! I reinforced t' forward end o' t' styrene with another strip o' styrene 3/4" wide glued inside after cuttin' off t' cone section 1" forward o' t' leadin' edge o' t' wings. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I reinforced t' lip o' t' cone, and glued another 1.5" strip inside t' cone t' make a shoulder.
I ran VCP on t' model usin' t' wings as fin set 1, and t' tail elevators as fin set 2, me hearties, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and neglectin' t' pulse jet, shiver me timbers, me hearties, since it would move t' CP back anyway, and was unsymmetric. Begad! Ya scallywag! VCP showed a CP o' midpoint o' t' wings, shiver me timbers, which is what I would expect for an airplane (from me RC experience). Well, blow me down! I set t' CG around 1" forward o' t' wings RTF givin' me more than 1 caliber, and which corresponds with other peoples experience with gettin' winged vehicles t' fly upward with stability. Avast! Ahoy! Finished empty weight came out as 9 oz., with 8oz o' lead shot and epoxy needed in t' nose for balance. Aye aye! This is a lot, but fits in with me original plan t' use 24mm E-15, 18's, and F-24, ya bilge rat, 39's. Avast! Final weight with motor and chutes be 19oz. Ahoy! Length is 23" for t' body, 27" for total, 17" wingspan, 3.5" chord, ya bilge rat, 7" tail span. Begad! I used t' Fi103A1 format which had shorter wings than t' later versions, ya bilge rat, and moved them back 1/2". T' tail cone exit diameter should really be BT-55. Body diameter is 3" at t' widest part.
I decided t' cut off t' back end o' t' body and have t' motor tube stick out the back, ya bilge rat, arrr, ya bilge rat, so I wouldn't have t' fight asymmetric thrust as well as drag, and It is hard t' tell t' difference when you look at t' model.
I rigged t' nose and body t' come down separately, ya bilge rat, arrr, with a 22" nylon for t' bottom, and a 20" xform for t' nose. Begad! T' chutes fit in t' hollow nose. Arrr! T' 1/8" plywood forward bulkhead in t' nose is just behind t' nose weight. Well, blow me down! This allows plenty o' room for t' two chutes, shiver me timbers, and 3/8" elastic. Begad! I rigged t' bottom chute forward, with t' nose chute behind, so they would both get pulled out. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I used a 9/32" id brass tube as a launch lug, me hearties, arrr, on t' bottom just behind t' nose cone joint, me bucko, since it be t' only place on t' body that be parallel t' t' flyin' surfaces.
Flight be on a foggy calm day with ceilin' around 600'. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Boost be vertical for t' first 150' or so, matey, then archin' toward t' pulse jet around 15-20 degrees for t' rest o' t' boost. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! I cut down t' delay from t' E-18-7(8) 1/4" which gave me a 4 second delay (boy these delays are out o' whack) This was from experience. Avast! It arched over, me bucko, and ejected perfectly.
On recovery I saw some damage t' t' body plastic which had been torn. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I thought it was t' recovery line attach point through t' plastic which had done it, matey, but on inspection I noticed that t' forward centerin' rin' was torn in half, and part was missing. Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I discovered t' problem. Begad! Blimey! Since I didn't think t' forward rin' would take any structural force, I didn't put a fillet behind t' ring, shiver me timbers, me bucko, matey, and relied on t' lip reinforcement t' hold it from goin' forward.
T' ejection charge be so forceful (the cap supplied with t' reload kit) that t' heavy nose resisted ejection, and t' centerin' was blown backwards inside t' body shell. Avast, me proud beauty! Once that happened t' body blow out a side portion behind t' wing. We taped t' body back with maskin' tape, and flew again on an F-39. Ya scallywag! This accelerates faster, arrr, and due t' t' larger drag at higher speed, matey, arced a little more than t' E-18. Ahoy! T' V-1 had a half roll on t' way up, me bucko, t' horizontal flight at t' top, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and a slow half roll arcin' over t' ejection. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Recovery was fine this time with no more damage.
I got out t' heat cannon at home, and removed t' remains for o' centerin' ring, which was held in place with 5 min. Begad! Blimey! epoxy around t' motor tube, replaced it with 1/8" plywood, shiver me timbers, and fixed t' hairline cracks with liquid styrene cement. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It is now RTF and good as new.
This be a really fun, and rewardin' project. Begad! T' rocket performed better than I thought, due t' t' asymmetric drag. This be t' second time I have used styrene, and it is a nice way t' make complicated shapes, and is easy t' work with. Arrr! T' first time was t' Estes Space Shuttle, which flew really well, matey, but t' thin styrene was tricky t' get together. Begad! It really looked awesome goin' over t' top like an airplane. Avast! Only thin' missin' be t' buzzing. Ahoy! A larger version with a Hypertek hybrid would sound about right:) A little bit larger, arrr, and I think an RC version could be worked out with micro servos. I'm surprised I haven't seen a ducted fan RC Buzz Bomb, me bucko, me hearties, since it be t' perfect model with t' engine in a separate pod, me bucko, me bucko, me hearties, easy t' get at, has a rather large wing, ya bilge rat, and t' buzzin' would sound great. Ya scallywag! Takin' off from a carriage, me hearties, me bucko, and landin' on t' belly, me bucko, or with rudimentary wheels.
Now I can paint t' model, shiver me timbers, and I have some still pictures, and an attempt at gettin' liftoff, me bucko, and as soon as I get them developed, me bucko, I'll put them on me web page.
My friend has already done a D powered Natter, ya bilge rat, arrr, now with our 7.6", me hearties, 5.5", 4", 2.6", matey, and 2" V-2's, and t' V-1, me hearties, we are gettin' a little one sided on t' German side, matey, so we are goin' t' try a 4" X-15 usin' Vacu-formin' for t' body shells, me hearties, and win' skins.
Hope this was interesting.
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Steve Lindeman (February 11, 2012)
Varrder interesting. Dis has been long time dream of mine to build also. I wish I had a friend like yours. Any chance you might want to do another one? I have been studying various aspects on how to build one scince nobody has a kit one but unsure how I want to do the pod support for duced air to main body for chute ejection. Would love to see how you did it. More close up photos please!!!