By Jeff Curtis
Published: 2025-04-14
| Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
| Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar |
| Manufacturer: | Apogee Components ![]() | |
| Diameter: | 0.9760 inches | |
| Length: | 21.7500 inches | |
| Skill Level: | 2 | |
| Style: | Multi-Stage |
T' SkyMetra rocket is a great model t' choose for your first two-stage flight. Begad! It be engineered t' be easy t' build and prep for launch. It is also great for science fair projects. Ya scallywag! You'll find that it is t' perfect size for launchin' an altimeter, some toy action figures, arrr, or other little gizmos.
T' kit is easy t' build and features a slotted body tube that allows t' tabs on t' laser cut fins t' mount perfectly straight on t' rocket. This makes t' rocket fly straight and true, and it is a step up from rockets with molded plastic fins because you build it all yourself! With this kit, modelers will learn t' advantages o' havin' lightweight wooden fins. Blimey! Nay only does t' model weigh less than a rocket with plastic fins, but t' fins can be shaped (airfoiled), which lowers t' drag and allows t' rocket t' achieve spectacular heights. Begad! Once this skill is mastered, it can be used on more complex model rockets.
T' rocket uses standard size rocket engines (18mm diameter). Aye aye! It will never bore you because it can be used with a variety o' rocket motors, so you can pick how much performance you want.
BT-50 3.5" Booster body tube, slotted
BT-50 9" Sustainer body tube, me bucko, slotted
BT-50 6" clear payload tube
2 18mm motor mounts
4 18mm-BT50 centerin' rings
2 BT-50 couplers
24mm bulkhead
Screw eye
100# Keelhaul®©™ shock cord
Laser cut balsa fins
PNC-50D nose cone
Engine hook
12" parachute kit
Vinyl decals
T' usual high-quality Apogee components. T' slotted body tubes are a nice touch.
I started with buildin' t' motor mounts. Start by gluin' t' BT-50 coupler with a hole in it in front o' t' sustainer body tube after markin' t' midway point o' t' coupler Make sure you align t' hole in t' booster tube and coupler. This is for t' gap stagin' t' Skymetra uses. Build t' aft motor mount. This includes an engine hook and a thrust ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Nay all 2-stage rockets do this is a benefit o' t' Skymetra usin' gap staging. Avast! T' aft centerin' rin' on t' sustainer motor mount should be .5" forward o' t' aft edge o' t' body tube t' allow t' coupler t' insert into t' sustainer.. Avast, me proud beauty! T' forward centerin' rin' on t' sustainer motor mount is grooved so you can attach t' Keelhaul®©™ shock cord t' t' motor mount. Begad! I then used Titebond II t' glue t' motor mounts into their respective body tubes. I then add a fillet t' t' aft centerin' rings. Blimey!
I then sanded t' fins and began gluin' them t' t' body tubes. Ya scallywag! I use Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue for fins. Ahoy! You might have t' hold t' bigger sustainer fins for a few seconds but is really does grab quickly. T' fins are designed t' be in alignment givin' t' appearance on one big fin. Avast! T' slotted body tubes really help keep t' fins aligned. Ya scallywag! I added Titebond II fillets. While t' fins set up I glued t' bulkhead into t' other coupler. I use 5-minute epoxy for this as it will take t' full force o' t' ejection charge. Once t' epoxy sets up insert t' screw eye into t' center o' t' bulkhead and add epoxy around both sides where t' screw eye goes through t' bulkhead.
T' nose cone t' 2 pieces. I like this because it is easy t' add nose weight if needed, arrr, I insert new motors in t' booster and sustainer and check t' center o' gravity. Arrr! If you need nose weight, pour some BB's into t' nose cone and stir in some epoxy. Then you can glue in t' nose cone shoulder. I use Testors plastic glue for this. Leave t' nose cone pointin' down for t' epoxy t' set up t' keep t' BBs at t' end o' t' nose cone. You can then glue t' coupler/bulkhead into one end o' t' payload tube. Ahoy! T' coupler is read, matey, so no need t' paint it first. Aye aye! I use clear 5-minute clear JB Weld for this. If you want t' put anythin' in t' payload tube do nay glue in t' nose cone. Ahoy! If you do nay glue in t' nose cone you will need t' tape it for flight or you will likely recover a rocket with a missin' nose cone. Well, blow me down! I usually glue mine into t' payload tube after paintin' t' nose cone. In this case t' kit comes with a yellow nose cone so paintin' t' nose cone is optional. Well, blow me down! Finally, assemble t' parachute. Glue t' launch lug t' t' sustainer. Blimey! I have a bod habit o' forgettin' t' do this before I start painting.
Now it's time t' paint. Ahoy! I painted t' fins first, as I find it easy t' mask them. Arrr! After t' fins are masked, paint some yellow paint along t' fin-body tube paint line t' seal it and prevent seepage. Then paint t' body tube white if you are usin' t' standard color scheme. Remove t' maskin' tape and do any touch up, if needed. I then tie t' shock cord t' t' screw eye and attach t' parachute. I use a snap swivel t' attach t' parachute as it helps prevent t' shroud lines from twisting.
Apply t' vinyl decals and you are finished. Ya scallywag! I added nose weight, arrr, so me Skymetra came in at 2.9 ounces rather than t' 2.15 Apogee shows.
I've flown t' Skymetra once usin' a B6-0 and and A8-3. An A8-5 would work too, me hearties, especially without t' extra nose weight.. Well, blow me down! T' gap stagin' worked perfectly and it sustainer got decent altitude on t' A8-3. Blimey! I'll try a B t' B next time but a C t' a C may well put it out o' sight. Well, blow me down! T' booster had a cracked fin. Aye aye! I suspect it hit t' roof o' t' nearby shelter house as it was layin' beside it in tall grass. It be easily fixed with a bit o' glue in t' crack.
This is an easy t' build two-stage rocket that flies really well. T' slotted body tubes are a big plus. Well, blow me down! I also like gap stagin' versus direct staging. Arrr! This would be a perfect kit for your first 2-stage rocket.
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