| Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border | 
| Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border | 
| Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border | 
| Diameter: | 2.60 inches | 
| Length: | 30.75 inches | 
| Manufacturer: | Madcow Rocketry ![]()  | 
| Style: | Scale | 
Brief:
	This is a nice scale model o' t' Navy's AQM-37 Jayhawk. Arrr! It features high quality components and flies on 29mm
	motors. T' kit has been upgraded with a plastic nose cone since t' prior review.


Construction:
	T' parts list:
 T' kit came with 7 pages o' instructions. Avast! These are nay as extensive as some but are more than adequate for even relatively inexperienced builders. Blimey! Even though t' design is somewhat exotic, shiver me timbers, t' precision components made this a relatively easy build. Blimey! Well, blow me down! I used 5-minute epoxy everywhere but on t' fin/winglet interface.
You start with t' motor mount, ya bilge rat, which consists o' t' tail cone, motor mount, and a forward centerin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! I decided that I wanted t' add positive retention so I attached all-thread atop o' a thin spacer t' t' motor mount. Avast! Begad! This required that I notch t' tail cone but this was easily accomplished.
T' Keelhaul®©™® portion o' t' shock tether is tied around t' motor mount and epoxied t' t' centerin' ring. Ahoy! Begad! It fits in a notch on the rin' and is tied t' t' nylon cord. T' main trick up t' this point is t' nay obstruct t' fin tabs.
T' motor mount and fin installation be straightforward, shiver me timbers, due in a large part t' t' precision laser cutting. Begad! Ahoy! T' issue here be t' attachment o' t' side winglets. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Madcow warns that they tend t' snap off on landin' and offers two options. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! One is t' attach them lightly so they will snap off easily and without damage. T' other option is to try t' make them bulletproof. Begad! I thought about usin' a larger chute (and probably will anyway) but decided t' snap away idea be t' way t' go. I was afraid that t' thin pointy tips would take a beatin' even if t' fins stay on. You could glass them, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, but I didn't really want to. Avast!
	
 T' nosecone build be interesting. Begad! Due t' t' problems associated with attachin' parts to
	the plastic cone, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, t' canards employ a unique mountin' technique. You drill holes in t' cone and insert t' provided
	dowel (cut in half). Ya scallywag! These dowels mate with slots in t' canards so t' structural support is independent o' t' bond
	with t' plastic. Begad! I had two problems but neither affected t' results. Aye aye! Blimey! First, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, t' dowel provided be warped and if you
	cut it t' t' specified lengths they are about 1/8" short. Arrr! I contemplated buyin' a replacement but just made it
	work.
T' instructions provide t' target CG and instructs you t' add nose weight t' move t' CG t' a point 19" from t' nose cone's tip. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! They recommend addin' t' weight t' t' shoulder section as weight in t' tip is subject to comin' loose. Arrr! Ya scallywag! I first determined t' amount o' shot by placin' it in a sandwich bag and drapin' it over t' rocket at the aft end o' t' cone's shoulder. I then added lead shot and epoxy through a ½" hole drilled in the cone's shoulder. My completed model weighs in at 25oz. Ahoy! I noticed this is a little heavier than t' other reviewer's model and quite a bit over t' quoted number.
Finally, I added two orange colored buttons from railbuttons.com in lieu o' t' provided lugs.
Finishing:
	I first sealed t' wood parts and filled t' thin spirals with Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish. Ahoy! T' instructions referred to
	newer plastic primers for t' plastic cone. Arrr! Begad! I'd had never used any and thought I'd try Rustoleum Plastic primer. Aye aye! I
	initially painted t' nose cone tip with Krylon H2O black. H2O over plastic primer seemed like a good idea. Well, blow me down! After that
	had dried, I masked t' tip and shot Plasti-Kote primer on t' canards and over t' plastic primer on t' base. Blimey! Primer
	over primer? This worked OK and saved maskin' t' base o' t' cone. I then shot Testor's Competition Orange on. Arrr! So far
	so good. Begad! Aye aye! Then, however, t' Frog Tape that I used t' mask t' tip lifted 50% o' t' H2O off. I removed t' rest and
	repainted with t' only other black I had on hand--Rustoleum Hammered Black. Ahoy! I sprayed this into t' plastic top from a
	pack o' Estes engines and brushed it on. Blimey! Arrr! T' cone actually turned out OK. Aye aye! Begad! 
T' body was more straightforward with Plasti-Kote primer and Testor's Competition Orange. Begad! T' kit comes with a lot o' decals and they are good quality. I did a lot o' repositionin' and t' only problem was one small corner folded under. As I be tryin' t' unfold it, matey, t' edge broke off. Blimey! Barely noticeable.
I rate this build a 4. Avast, me proud beauty! T' canard dowels were nay perfect but everythin' else be top notch.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
 Flight:
	I flew t' Jayhawk at MDRA's Red Glare V launch. All t' recommended motors are Fs so I opted for an F42-4 EconoJet
	for t' maiden flight. T' -8 seemed too long and I'd rather see t' delay too short than too long. Ahoy! I used a tape
	thrust rin' in lieu o' t' F42's cardboard rin' and added a small washer on t' retention bolt. I upgraded t' a
	42" chute and added t' provided one t' t' range box supply. T' boost be very straight in t' perfectly calm
	winds and, me bucko, as typical for "winged" sport rockets, performed a slight wiggle after burn out.
Recovery:
	Ejection was early and, matey, because t' cone is so heavy, t' body slammed into it. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Luckily, me hearties, arrr, me bucko, no fins were stripped by the
	impact but t' balsa tail cone had a nice divot that looked like it might have been made by t' screw eye in t' base
	of t' cone. Ahoy! Blimey! This seemed a little odd since it was on a surface taperin' away from t' body. Avast! 
Despite t' bigger chute, t' fillets on both winglets both had stress cracks in their fillets. Begad! Although not totally unexpected, matey, I thought t' bigger chute and soft plowed ground would have spared them.
	
 I won't din' t' kit's ratin' for t' impact as this was user error and t' cracks in the
	fillets were due t' me chosen build technique. However, me general sense is that this kit is more subject t' landing
	damage unless you went hog wild in its construction. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! 
Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5
Summary:
	PROs:
CONs
I'm repairin' t' fillets, fillin' t' divot, and will fly her on a G71 next. I'm probably goin' t' use a separate chute for t' cone.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Brief: The Madcow Rocketry AQM-37 Jayhawk is a high quality mid-powered kit that is a close scale to the US Navys target drone. Construction: The parts list: 2.6 heavy wall body tube Aircraft plywood fins and centering rings Shock cord, chute, and even a Nomex ® heat shield Balsa nose cone with unusual ballast compartment High quality ...
![]()  | 
        ![]()  | 
      
![]()  | 
              ![]()  |