Presented with written permission from RocketyPlanet:

Product Review by Darrell D. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Mobley
Sunday, arrr, ya bilge rat, July 06, ya bilge rat, 2008

One o' t' first rockets I got me hands on when I got back into rocketry a couple o' years ago be t' Giant Leap Rocketry Escape Velocity 2.6, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, one o' their line o' "Ready t' Fly (Almost)" kits, a 2.56" speedster that includes everythin' you need other than a motor and launch pad t' build and launch your own high powered rocket.

T' kit features Giant Leap's signature phenolic tubing, pre-slotted t' accept a pre-molded ACME 3-finned fin cannister, a 38mm motor mount, matey, avionics bay for dual deployment, positive motor retention and all t' hardware and recovery components a rocketeer could ask for in an all-in-one kit. Blimey! Aye aye! It looked like t' perfect kit for someone wantin' t' build a rocket that could be used for a certification flight and then flown again and again in a variety o' flight configurations.

T' Escape Velocity kit has everythin' you will need for launch except a motor and a launch pad. Aye aye! Blimey!

I used t' kit in another product review in late 2006, a review about usin' fiberglass cloth sleevin' t' laminate and strengthen ordinary cardboard tubes. I got tired early on in me hobby career o' t' constant maintenance and repair t' cardboard-tubed rockets, and even movin' up t' phenolic tubin' came with its own share o' troubles like shattered or cracked body tubes. Ya scallywag! Giant Leap's tubin' seems less prone t' that behavior than other phenolic kits on t' market, but it still weighed on me mind. What t' do? T' answer was as clear now as it was when I first found t' appropriate answer: 'glass it!

As you will find in t' Aerosleeves review, I covered t' Escape Velocity with one layer o' their light fiberglass cloth sleeving, shiver me timbers, and t' strength increase was out o' t' world. Well, blow me down! Even though Aerosleeves has gone out o' business, matey, shiver me timbers, you can still find fiberglass and other composite sleevin' from online sources such as Soller Composites.

With t' airframe handled along with t' now non-existent spiral seams, I turned me attention t' t' motor mount and airframe assembly. Avast! It be so straightforward it's hard t' believe. Ya scallywag! Blimey! With t' injection molded ACME fin can, ya bilge rat, t' fins are already aligned at t' proper angle, me bucko, you just attach it t' t' enclosed 38mm motor mount tube as per t' instructions and put on t' centerin' rings. Begad! Done!

T' dotted line marks t' section o' t' fin can I removed. Avast! Blimey! Here's t' fin can/motor mount assembly after shortenin' and flippin' t' aft centerin' rin' around. Begad! Gluin' it all up, me bucko, me bucko, I use a hose clamp t' hold it all together until t' glue sets.

However, I did somethin' a little unique with me motor mount assembly, me hearties, shiver me timbers, as I never can leave well enough alone. T' ACME fin cans protrude beyond t' fins on each end, and when used in conjunction with t' Slimline retainer that comes in t' kit, tends t' make t' rocket stick out its behind a little bit. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I wanted t' tuck its butt back in, so here's how I did it.

In t' photo sequence t' t' left, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me bucko, you can see t' fin can with a dotted line on t' end with t' taper. I used a hacksaw t' cut this length off, givin' both ends a flush fit for t' centerin' rings. Well, blow me down! Then, before gettin' out any glue, me bucko, I dry fit t' pieces together t' see how much room on t' motor mount tube t' Slimline wanted.

From that, me hearties, I could determine where t' aft centerin' rin' should go, ya bilge rat, because I wanted t' Slimline up against t' aft centerin' rin' and t' aft centerin' rin' up against t' fin can, arrr, me hearties, t' recess t' Slimline as much as possible while keepin' t' fin can as far aft as possible.

A short section o' coupler tubin' designated t' join t' airframe back together at t' aft o' t' rocket ended up on t' outside o' t' aft centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, arrr, allowin' me t' pull things in even tighter. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! T' result was super and speaks for itself. I decided t' leave t' Slimline off until after painting.

In t' last photo o' t' fin can sequence me, me hearties, you can see me attachin' t' airframe and usin' a hose clamp t' snug it on down until t' epoxy set.

Another trick I used while assemblin' t' motor mount be t' attachment o' t' tubular nylon recovery cord. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' tubular nylon had some nice ends sewn into it, me bucko, and I couldn't break down and cut them off one end, so I did somethin' one better.

I cut a slot in t' forward centerin' rin' for t' tubular nylon t' pass betwixt it and t' motor mount tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Then, me hearties, I took a 2" key ring, put it on t' end o' t' tubular nylon, ya bilge rat, and slid t' key rin' over t' front o' t' motor mount tube, then fed t' other end o' t' tubular nylon through t' forward centerin' rin' and slid it over t' motor mount tube. T' key rin' fit around t' front end o' t' fin can, and I then glued t' forward centerin' rin' into place - that puppy isn't goin' anywhere. Ahoy! Blimey! You can see t' attachment in t' second photo o' t' fin can photo sequence.

T' rest o' t' airframe assembly went as displayed in t' instructions. Giant Leap provides great instructions and anyone can follow along with ease, ya bilge rat, matey, although you should read through them a couple o' times t' familiarize yourself with all t' steps and components.

Another area that I deviated from stock was in t' electronics bay, which is nothin' abnormal for me. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' Giant Leap kit contains all o' t' parts you need for settin' up dual deployment in t' standard kit, but I am too fat-fingered t' want t' fiddle around inside a fixed 2.5" electronics bay.

So I created one o' me standard electronics bay assemblies that I have covered in an article on buildin' removable electronics bays and in t' Elipse review as well. Begad! All I needed were some extra bulkhead plates, me hearties, some T-nuts and a little G-10 for an electronics sled. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I should note, arrr, t' standard kit came with a small sheet o' honeycomb material for t' electronics sled, but I just love G-10.

T' components o' me electronics bay, me hearties, me bucko, all laid out, showin' t' removable design. Aye aye! Closeup o' t' front, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, showin' t' Cannonball Works RRC2-MINI and t' power switch. T' back side, showin' t' battery holder and main ejection charge holder. Avast! This be t' "receiver hitch" o' me design, me hearties, a bulkhead plate with threaded rods t' hold t' electronics bay in place. Blimey! Blimey!

In me designs, ya bilge rat, I like nay havin' external switches on t' airframe that create wirin' harness frivolities when movin' electronics in and out. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! By mountin' switches on t' electronics sled, I can reach through t' altimeter port with a screwdriver and arm t' electronics very easily.

T' necessity o' t' electronic's switches bein' in t' same place every time so I can find t' switch doesn't lend itself t' usin' a single piece o' all-thread through t' center o' t' standard electronics bay designs, which allows t' electronics sled t' rotate around t' central axis. Begad! Ahoy! By usin' two pieces o' all-thread, shiver me timbers, I can lock down t' positionin' o' t' electronics sled and know me unit is in t' same place every flight.

As I have discussed in t' previous builds, arrr, me bucko, I use a securely mounted forward bulkhead in t' payload section that has two T-nuts for attachin' t' electronics bay t' it, matey, ya bilge rat, me bucko, as well as a center cut-out t' allow t' recovery cord t' pass through and attach t' t' electronics bay, matey, as well as a cut-out t' clear t' electronics bay's built-in main ejection charge.

T' photo sequence t' t' right shows all o' t' parts o' t' removable electronics bay: t' sled itself, shiver me timbers, t' end cap, matey, t' removable coupler, and lastly t' bulkhead mounted in t' payload compartment with t' two all-thread rods t' attach it all together. T' electronics sled has a Cannonball Works RRC2-Mini on t' front side along with t' power switch mounted in an aluminum bracket.

On t' back, matey, a 9 volt battery holder resides along with a 1/2" launch lug fashioned t' hold t' main ejection charge. Aye aye! T' electronics bay's end cap has a two-screw electronics terminal for wirin' up t' drogue charge and is connected t' t' altimeter by a pass-through wirin' harness with a Dean's plug t' allow it t' be removed and replaced.

To prep, me bucko, I put in a fresh 9 volt battery and secure it with nylon zip-ties. Aye aye! Next, I fit in an appropriately sized ejection charge, matey, and wire it into t' main charge terminals on t' altimeter. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Slide t' main chute recovery harness through t' access cut-out in t' payload bay bulkhead plate and attach it t' t' forward eye bolt on t' electronics bay with a quick link.

All that's left is t' slide t' sled onto t' two all-threads, put t' removable coupler tube around it, slip on t' aft electronics bay cap, rememberin' t' connect t' Dean's connector so t' drogue charge will fire, and then secure with two flat washers and nuts. Ahoy! Attach t' drogue recovery cord, me hearties, wire t' drogue ejection charge and slip t' payload assembly into t' airframe. At t' pad, shiver me timbers, me hearties, you can reach in with a small screwdriver and arm t' electronics. Begad! Begad! It's me standard design and I and very comfortable usin' it.

I painted t' Escape Velocity usin' standard Krylon colors over a Duplicolor and Kilz primer base - white Krylon on t' booster, red Krylon on t' nosecone and payload compartment. Well, blow me down! Blimey! As mentioned in t' Elipse review, I like t' use Rustoleum plastic primer for me nosecones. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Try it, it sticks!

Some fliers lament that fiberglassin' causes a "step" betwixt t' unlaminated nosecone and laminated payload compartment. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I have noticed that several coats o' Kilz on t' nosecone will build it up enough t' eliminate t' stepped appearance, so t' solution t' this problem appears t' be more primer.

Prepped and ready t' go, me hearties, t' Escape Velocity looks majestic. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! T' CTI I195R really kicks t' rocket in t' rear. Successfully recovered, matey, and ready for more abuse. Begad! Blimey!

To finish t' paint scheme, black self-adhesive Monokote be applied t' give a roll pattern treatment, usin' t' wet method. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! For those that haven't tried it, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, it's similar t' how window tint it put on. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! An evaporative liquid, me bucko, like Windex, is used t' wet t' surface and t' film is applied and positioned, me bucko, then t' liquid is squeegeed out. I like Windex because it evaporates fast and doesn't get into all t' things liquids shouldn't get into, me bucko, like cardboard airframes and couplers.

Now that t' rocket was finally finished, I got a chance t' launch t' Escape Velocity at t' NEFAR launch in Bunnell, Florida on Saturday, June 14th. Arrr! Well, blow me down! NEFAR, matey, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' Northeast Florida Association o' Rocketry, arrr, enjoys a large expanse o' beautiful green sod just northwest o' Daytona, arrr, me bucko, me hearties, and t' Escape Velocity was ready for its maiden stroll.

For propulsion, shiver me timbers, I used a AMW/Pro38™ 400I195RR Red Rhino, one o' t' new red reloads, an I195, that is a result o' t' Animal Motor Works/Cesaroni Technology Incorporated marketin' agreement announced last year. Blimey! If you haven't flown a CTI or AMW/Pro-X™ motor before, me bucko, I can't begin t' explain how simple these motors are t' assemble. You stick it in, ya bilge rat, screw it down and set t' delay. Avast! They really are "a better way t' fly."

I had some issues with t' ACME conformal rail guides that came in t' kit nay wantin' t' stay where I put them, me hearties, shiver me timbers, but then again I only relied on t' enclosed double-edged tape supplied with t' guides t' attach them. Aye aye! That was a short-lived problem, as a dose o' medium CA firmed things back up in short order. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Back at t' pad, ya bilge rat, t' rocket was loaded onto t' rail and t' igniter installed. Blimey! Avast! A quick twist armed t' RRC2-Mini, and it beeped a happy, armed-with-continuity chantey.

When t' button be pushed, matey, ya bilge rat, t' AMW/Pro38 Red Rhino came t' life and took t' Escape Velocity on a rapid trip, shiver me timbers, arrr, before t' Cannonball Works RRC2-Mini gently performed its services in its ubiquitous manner, arrr, lowerin' t' rocket in a beautiful dual deployment display. When I arrived at t' rocket, shiver me timbers, t' RRC2-Mini be beepin' out 2703 feet, arrr, a beautiful flight o' a great kit. Aye aye! With t' dual deployment and me fiberglass reinforcement, me hearties, this rocket can easily take t' biggest 38mm motors available and keep comin' back for more.

If you are lookin' for a great level one and even level two certification rocket, it's hard t' go wrong with t' Escape Velocity. I know, because me flight was also me level one re-do after bein' out o' t' hobby for so long. Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! And when I say t' kit has everythin' you need except a motor and launcher, I really mean it. Avast! Well, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, ok, you have t' supply some epoxy, matey, but I figured you could handle that! Try an Escape Velocity, you'll be very satisfied with t' kit.

You can check out t' Escape Velocity on t' Giant Leap Rocketry site at http://www.giantleaprocketry.com/.

Editor's note: T' author has since flown t' Escape Velocity yet again, me bucko, this time for his TRA level two certification, shiver me timbers, usin' an AeroTech J350W, me hearties, t' reach an altitude o' 5086 feet. Well, blow me down! T' launch took place at NEFAR's July 12th launch in Bunnell, Florida. Avast! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' Escape Velocity never missed a beat, matey, took t' abuse and came back ready for more. This kit is a serious certification rocket nay t' be overlooked.