Public Missiles - Callisto

Public Missiles Callisto

Public Missiles - Callisto

Contributed by Nick Esselman

Published:	2010-11-13
Diameter:	2.20 inches
Length:	46.00 inches
Manufacturer:	Public Missiles
Style:	Sport

(04/01/98) Wow! That was what I first thought as I surveyed t' contents o' my Public Missiles' Callisto. Ya scallywag! Why? Well, arrr, as I have said in me introduction page I am gettin' back into rocketry and am movin' toward mid-power models. O' course, matey, I have experience buildin' many Estes' kits, matey, shiver me timbers, me bucko, most o' which weigh less than 2 ounces and are less than 24" long, however, t' Callisto is 25 ounces (1 1/2 pounds) and is about 46" tall. Avast, me proud beauty! It was definitely a wow!
[Picture]

T' instructions were clear and thar were enough illustrations t' ensure understanding. Begad! You will need two types o' epoxy (5 min and 15 min) and you'll want t' scuff all parts bein' bonded t' ensure strong bonds. Both items were brought out in t' instructions. Begad! Also, matey, t' next time you stop by a Chinese restaurant be sure t' keep a set o' chop sticks. Begad! Arrr! They work great for spreadin' epoxy up into t' airframe and allow t' inside edges of the fins. Blimey! Avast! I tape two together for additional length and also wipe them clean after use.

T' Callisto was straight forward and easy t' build. If you are lookin' for a "quick-build" model then the Callisto is nay your choice, me hearties, ya bilge rat, me hearties, that is, shiver me timbers, if you use epoxy as recommended. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Take your time and you will find that this kit is very satisfying. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!

[Picture] All t' parts were cut precisely and fit very well. Well, blow me down! T' airframe is PML's phenolic tubin' which is very rigid. T' fins are PML's G-10 fiberglass. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! I found this material easy t' work with, however, arrr, take care when roundin' t' leadin' and trailin' edges and be sure to rough t' entire surface at all bondin' joints before painting. Begad! T' slotted airframe made fin alignment a breeze and ensures a very strong structure. Ya scallywag! I was surprised nay t' find an "eye" screw for attachin' t' shock cord to the nose cone but that be remedied with a quick stop at a local hardware store. Avast! Another nice feature, ya bilge rat, me hearties, I have nay experienced before, be t' piston ejection system. Arrr! Ya scallywag! This eliminates t' need for recovery wadding. This eliminates the need for recovery wadding. T' kit uses a PML's Dura-Chute parachute, which is high quality rip-stop nylon with a spill hole. Ya scallywag! Aye aye!

[Picture] Finishin' t' model offered some challenges. Blimey! First, shiver me timbers, the phenolic tubin' has fairly deep grooves that need t' be filled if you are going for a smooth finish. I used a ready mix, fast dryin' spackle which worked nicely. Arrr! I then used Plasti-Kote primer from a local automotive store. This is a thicker sandable primer which works well in fillin' in t' imperfections on t' model. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! One o' t' most annoyin' imperfections was in t' plastic nose cone. Begad! Blimey! There were mold grooves along both sides that took a lot o' primer t' finally fill in. Aye aye! Blimey! After priming and sanding, ya bilge rat, I chose automotive lacquer paint for me colors. T' kit came with a single decal sportin' t' word "Callisto" in red with black outline. Begad! Blimey! I wasn't interested in decal from t' beginnin' since t' color scheme I chose was blue and gold. Blimey! Blimey!

I was a bit disappointed that t' model didn't come with a motor stop t' prevent t' motor from dislodgin' with t' ejection charge. Arrr! Blimey! I have come t' learn that this is fairly common. Aye aye! None t' less, shiver me timbers, I added hardware to allow me t' mount a clip t' prevent t' motor from kickin' out. Begad! I used "T" Nuts on both sides, mounted and epoxied t' t' aft centering ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Then I was able t' screw in two small clips that slide over t' edge of RMS or Single-Use Motors. Begad! Blimey!

[Picture] Ready t' fly. I chose the Aerotech RMS - 29/40-120 Reloadable Motor System. I was pleased t' find that it allowed me t' choose from several "F" and "G" power motor reloads. Ya scallywag! In addition, it does nay require a thrust-rin' since it has a small flange t' prevent the motor from goin' through t' motor mount tube. Ahoy! Aye aye! I found t' best price for Aerotech motors at Hobby L'inc. Aye aye!

I flew it first on a Darkstar F62-6 since I be nervous usin' me RMS motor for t' first time. Perfect flight with ejection just at the back portion o' apogee. Begad! Blimey! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Blimey! This built nerve for a F52-5. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! This time ejection occurred 1-2 seconds after apogee, but again a beautiful flight and recovery. Impressive! Blimey! I'm hooked!

Who knew that this rocket would become me Level 1 certification kit? Well, when loot ran low and time ran out, matey, t' Callisto became t' rocket o' choice for me Level 1 certification. Arrr! Blimey! I really wanted somethin' heavier. Arrr! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! But at NARAM-40, she was loaded up with a H128-Medium and successfully turned in a qualifyin' Level 1 certification flight. Begad! Again, provin' t' sturdiness and versatility o' this kit.

Flights

Comments:

S.O. (June 1, 2000)

The Callisto is a class act all the way. It is perfect for people wanting to step up from Aerotech or some LOC rockets. Construction was easy (if you are good at using epoxy) although time consuming. Most of the time I spent on it was filling the deep grove. (but now you can get the new tubes!!!) Lastly the versatility, I can use F's to I's (maybe J's on the new QT) and 500' to HIGH (sorry don't know the exact numbers). I rate it 6 out of 5 (everyone HPR or not should buy this kit, this one will be your old reliable.)

T.B. (July 1, 2001)

I really love my Callisto. Mine came with the Quantum tube and 38mm motor mount. Fins are G-10 fiberglass and tube came pre-slotted for through the wall fin mounting. Made a 29mm adapter so I can fly it on F's and G's (for now). It was my first experience with the piston ejection system and I found it easy to install. I used both 5min and 15min epoxy for construction which I found straight forward with easy to follow instructions from PML. I painted the rocket with Krylon white sandable primer with red fins and nose cone then gave it several coats of Krylon high-gloss crystal clear coat. I attached the supplied 24in nylon chute to the "D" ring at the top of the piston with a "quick link". My first flight was with and Aerotech G38. The Callisto shot off the launch rod and straight up for an excellent flight and recovery. I plan on using this rocket for my level-1 cert on either a H45 (38mm) or an H128. All in all I would give this rocket a 5/5 in all aspects. Although it does not come with any type of motor retention, I found it easy to fabricate one by just drilling two appropriate size holes in the thick plywood bottom centering ring, using long screws and fabricating wire retaining straps that loop across the two screws and over the motor (on each side of the nozzle for a very positive retention. Great rocket kit and with Quantum tube finishing was a breeze.

J.B. (May 5, 2003)

I build my Callisto as per the instructions. The only thing I changed was I epoxied a 10-28 NF nut to the inside of the bottom centering ring (above a drilled hole) that allowed me to use a machine screw and a metal retainer for the motor. The kit went together very easily and according to the instructions. I was very happy with it. I was very glad I added the screw for motor retention because there was not enough motor tube extend below the bottom centering ring to tape a motor to it as the motor instructions said. I launched it four times at the Tripoli "Battle Park 2003" launch in VA. The first 2 launches were on F25W-4 SU Aerotech motors. The flights were great! The delay was almost perfect. The only issue I have is that with the light F25W motor, there was a lot of caliber of stability and the rocket windcocked into the wind severely. There were 10-20 mph winds and the rocket tilted 30-35 deg. into the wind, about 30 feet above the launch pad. This resulted in a landing 150 - 200 yard upwind from the pad. That isn't all bad though. The third launch was on a G40W-7 Aerotech motor. The rocket still windcocked into the wind, but not quite as badly, and landed 200 - 250 yards upwind. The 7 second delay was again, perfect. The final flight was on another F25W-4 motor. The wind had dropped to 0 - 5 mph and the flight was perfect. This is a great rocket. My only suggestion is that if you use F or G motors, make sure the winds are light, less the 10 mph. I'm sure it would fly much straighter on a heavier H or I in stronger winds. The problem is then, how far down wind would it land? I plan to use this rocket for my Level 1 cert. I think it will work flawlessly.

M.F.S. (August 5, 2008)

I built the Quantum tube 38mm version of the Callisto. I didn't intend to use it as my Level 1 cert. but the opportunity presented itself at NARAM-50. I had done the basic motor mount and fin attachment at home. I added the PML HAMR 38 motor retention system at the motel. I used the recommended JB Weld for the HAMR and had no problems. The kit was extremely easy to build and the HAMR system worked great. The first flight of my Callisto was my certification flight on an H73M.

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