History, Airframe, Nose Cone and Tail Cone

I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. Avast, me proud beauty! I be one o' the first on me block t' build one. Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. Arrr! But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Begad! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.

So I bought two kits. T' body tubes are ten inches long. Begad! T' fin slots are 4 inches long, arrr, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! So I cut t' tube in half (5"). Well, blow me down! T' slotted half be made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Sanding made it fit better. Ya scallywag! T' new coupler then was epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Aye aye! Avast! Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.

Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It wonít fit into any other rocket. Well, blow me down! Solution: a boat tail. Avast! Cut t' base off 1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder. Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Mark through the slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Avast! Begad! This material must be removed. 
 
 

Parts List
 

• 2 ea. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Estes Big Daddy Kits
• 1 ea. Begad! Ahoy! 12" Vaughn Brothers 29mm Motor Tube
• 1 ea. Begad! Launch Lug, matey, shiver me timbers, 5/16" brass tube (1/4" ID, me bucko, matey, 5" long)
• 2 ea. Aye aye! Aye aye! #8-32 x 12" Threaded Rods
• 16 ea. Avast! Blimey! #8-32 hex nuts
• 2 ea. Aye aye! #8-32 cap nuts
• 3 ea. Ya scallywag! 1/8" Quick Links
• 2 ea. Arrr! 3/16" x 1-1/2" Eye Bolts
• 1 ea. Begad! Well, blow me down! 1/16" Wire Cable
• 2 ea. Aye aye! Blimey! Cable Ferrule and Stop Set
• 1 ea. Begad! 1/8" Aircraft Plywood (12" x 24" sheet)
• 2 ea. Ahoy! Arrr! #8 washers
• 2 ea. Well, blow me down! 1/4" washers

Motor Assembly

• 3 centerin' rings 1/8" plywood (cut fins first (see "Fins" below) fin layout is critical))
• All with 32 mm center hole
• Aft rin' 60 mm diameter
• Center and forward rings 74 mm diameter
• Two 5/32" holes in each ring, 22 mm from center, me bucko, 180 deg. Well, blow me down! apart
• Two 3/16" holes in forward ring, 27 mm from center, 90 deg. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! from first two holes

T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Begad! Begad! Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Begad! Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Aye aye! Begad! Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Aye aye! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. Ya scallywag! T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. Aye aye! Blimey! T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Avast! Aye aye! Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Remove t' assembly. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Arrr! Tighten, me bucko, shiver me timbers, test fit and secure with CA.

Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Begad! Tighten and secure with CA. Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Blimey! Aye aye! Thread a nut over each rod. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Ya scallywag! Tighten and secure with CA.

Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Begad! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.

Remove body tube, me hearties, motor assembly, matey, matey, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Avast, me proud beauty! Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. Aye aye! T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.

I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Ya scallywag! Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Carefully mind the alignment marks.

Motor Retention

I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. Ya scallywag! But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. Ahoy! An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Begad! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), shiver me timbers, t' 1/4" washer, me hearties, t' #8 washer, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and t' cap nut. May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. This will keep t' threads clean. 

(Click t' Enlarge)

Fins and Launch Lug

Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Each fin is in two pieces. Cut a total o' four fins. Well, blow me down! I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, me hearties, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Ya scallywag! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. Avast, me proud beauty! It worked perfectly, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. Begad! As a matter o' fact, matey, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.

Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.

Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.

CP and CG

Usin' RockSim I was able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, me bucko, an H128. Blimey! Begad! I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.

Recovery

Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. Aye aye! Blimey! I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, and the plywood fins did just fine. Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! As noted above, shiver me timbers, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).

Was It Worth It?

I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Looking back on it, me hearties, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. Blimey! On t' other hand, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I think it looks better, me hearties, with its boat-tail and long fins, ya bilge rat, than most vanilla 3" rockets. Ya scallywag! So, matey, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Avast! Fo me it was. Ahoy! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.

Take a look at some launch pictures!

T' G64 Lights!
A pink 36" parachute
Landin' 16 feet from t' launch pad!

Contact me

If you have any questions or comments, shiver me timbers, I would like to hear from you. Begad! My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net