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History, me hearties, Airframe,
Nose Cone and Tail Cone
I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. I was one o' the first on me block t' build one. Begad! Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. Ahoy! Ahoy! But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Begad! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.
So I bought two kits. Begad! T' body tubes are ten inches long. T' fin slots are 4 inches long, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. Arrr! So I cut t' tube in half (5"). T' slotted half was made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Sanding made it fit better. Begad! Blimey! T' new coupler then was epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Begad! Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.
Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It
wonít fit into any other rocket. Ahoy! Begad! Solution: a boat tail. Cut t' base off
1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder.
Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Mark through the
slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Begad! This material
must be removed.

Parts List
Motor Assembly
IMPORTANT NOTE:
T' rods must NOT line up with t' fin slots. Arrr! Blimey! A 45
deg. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! offset would be optimal.
I unfortunately achieved closer t' 30 deg. Begad! Arrr! But it will
work.

T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Begad! Aye aye! Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Ahoy! Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Arrr! Blimey! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. Blimey! Blimey! T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Avast! Remove t' assembly. Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Avast! Tighten, test fit and secure with CA.
Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Tighten and secure with CA. Avast! Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Avast, me proud beauty! Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Thread a nut over each rod. T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Ahoy! Tighten and secure with CA.

Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, ya bilge rat, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Well, blow me down! Begad! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.
Remove body tube, ya bilge rat, motor assembly, me bucko, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Begad! Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.
I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Avast, me proud beauty! Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Carefully mind the alignment marks.
Motor Retention
I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. Arrr! But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Blimey! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. Begad! T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), me hearties, t' 1/4" washer, arrr, t' #8 washer, matey, ya bilge rat, and t' cap nut. Ya scallywag! May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. This will keep t' threads clean.
Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Aye aye! Each fin is in two pieces. Avast, me proud beauty! Cut a total o' four fins. Aye aye! I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Ahoy! Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Begad! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. It worked perfectly, me bucko, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. Avast! As a matter o' fact, ya bilge rat, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.
Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Begad! Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.
Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.
CP and CG
Usin' RockSim I was able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, me hearties, an H128. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.
Recovery
Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. Well, blow me down! I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, arrr, and the plywood fins did just fine. Ahoy! As noted above, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).
Was It Worth It?
I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. Avast! I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Avast, me proud beauty! Looking back on it, ya bilge rat, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. On t' other hand, I think it looks better, with its boat-tail and long fins, shiver me timbers, me bucko, than most vanilla 3" rockets. Arrr! So, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Fo me it was. Begad! Well, blow me down! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.
Take a look at some launch pictures!
T' G64
Lights!
A pink 36"
parachute
Landin' 16 feet
from t' launch pad!

Contact me
If you have any questions or comments, me hearties, me bucko, I would like to hear from you. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net
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