Brief:
For a long time now, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, me favorite rockets have been military missiles. Aye aye! Blimey! I have built many in t' past and wanted t' build a HPR version o' t' Harpoon AGM-84. I decided t' scratch build, since thar were no kits t' fit t' bill, arrr, and designed a 4" 33% Scale Harpoon AGM-84. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' rocket has a 38mm motor mount, 54" PML parachute, shiver me timbers, Nomex ® cloth, ya bilge rat, Keelhaul®©™ ® for shock cord and a detailed scale set o' decals. Avast!

T' body tube is made o' PML 4" Quantum tubing, me bucko, which I had custom slotted and cut at t' factory. Aye aye! They did their usual great job, and they followed me cutting/slottin' instructions t' t' tee! Hats off t' t' guys at PML. Ya scallywag!

This will be t' first t' be built in a series o' 4" models I have designed and are on t' buildin' board. Avast! I did check t' WPAFB Museum website and they have one o' every missile I have interest in on site, with the exception o' this one. Arrr! For some reason, it couldn't be that this is primarily a Navy missile, me bucko, I had a hard time findin' pics for it so I could do scale decals. Some good pics were found and I was able t' create some decals that are very close t' scale. Avast, me proud beauty!

Construction:

Construction began by cuttin' t' 38mm motor mount tube t' 23.75". Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Then I measured and glued t' first centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, which be t' lower o' two rings for t' center fins. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Both sets o' fins are sandwiched betwixt centerin' rings. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Next, I cut out the fins from t' RockSim pattern I printed out from t' design. Begad! Blimey! Usin' a Dremel, asbestos cuttin' wheel, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and a vacuum t' pull in t' dust while I cut, all four upper fins and four lower fins were cut with ease from t' G10 sheeting. Avast! Blimey! They were final sanded on me table sander and now fit t' slots well. After cuttin' me own G10 fins, I highly recommend this t' anyone who wishes to scratch build; it will save you a fortune over pre-cut fins and are very easy and fast t' make. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast! Blimey!

T' four inch coupler was cut t' a length o' 7" and edges were sanded. Finally, I measured t' 1/2" thick by six inch centerin' ring, which will extend past t' aft o' t' body tube as a boattail. Aye aye! It be reduced t' 4" in diameter, so it would fit flush with t' outside o' t' body tube. Blimey!

A centerin' ring was mounted t' t' motor mount tube and it was installed in t' body tube after roughin' it up with sandpaper. Blimey! Begad! This CR sits just below t' slots for t' center fins. Arrr! A second CR was installed just above t' lower fin slots. Avast, me proud beauty! Fin edges were rounded and surfaces were roughed up and t' lower fins were glued in place to the motor mount and upper CR. Arrr! Also, t' lower fins were glassed from t' motor mount, me hearties, up t' inside o' each fin and across t' inside o' t' body tube area. In addition, t' lower centerin' rin' was installed flush with t' body tube and against t' bottom o' t' lower fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Finally, matey, t' lower transition was sanded t' angle t' bottom edge for t' "transition" look. Well, blow me down!

I worked on the ply 1/2" thick tail transition piece. Well, blow me down! 3 holes were drilled through it to accept t' 8/32 sized bolts for t' PML motor retainer. Arrr! I used a 1/2" drill bit t' open a recess in t' top side o' t' transition, matey, then carve it out usin' a dremel and small sandin' tube so t' blind nuts would sit recessed inside this "well". Well, blow me down! This was necessary so t' piece could be glued flush t' t' bottom CR on t' model. Ahoy! Next, arrr, arrr, I placed some glue inside t' recess and installed t' three blind nuts, then tested for a flush fit. Well, blow me down! Begad! Finally, the blind nut threads were filled with wax, ya bilge rat, then t' excess wax be shaved flush and I epoxied t' transition t' t' bottom o' t' rocket and motor mount. Avast! Arrr! Upper fins were next; each canard fin was glued t' t' motor mount and lower centerin' ring. Aye aye! I also took t' final centerin' ring, t' one that would fit on top o' t' center fins and drilled two holes, then mounted t' Stainless Steel 3" wide U-Bolt for t' shock cord.

Next, me hearties, I glassed each canard fin inside t' t' motor mount and inside body tube, then glued in the last centerin' rin' with t' U-Bolt as a top cap t' t' center fins. The coupler be installed next, followed by t' upper section o' body tube. I ran maskin' tape around t' seam t' help keep both upper an lower body tubes in alignment with each other until t' glue set. Avast! Begad! I have seen where a coupler has some play and can leave t' joint a bit "out o' round", matey, which leaves a little overlap betwixt t' tubes. Ya scallywag! Usin' several wraps o' maskin' tape kept it in alignment and t' tape easily pulled off once t' glue has set. Arrr! T' coupler adds strength t' t' centerin' rin' since it is holdin' t' rin' down atop the center fins. Avast, me proud beauty! This method be used t' insure it had a solid anchor since it has to handle t' stress o' deployment. Begad!

Once everythin' had dried, arrr, I started glassin' t' lower fins. At this time, one o' four sides is glassed. Avast, me proud beauty! While t' epoxy was still curin' for t' cloth, ya bilge rat, I cut t' lower 1/2" launch lug t' a length o' 2 1/2", then epoxied it between t' lower fins, me bucko, 1" from t' body tube bottom. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Next, I finished fiberglassin' t' fins, shiver me timbers, then added fillets t' t' upper canard fins and mounted the upper launch lug. Avast!

T' upper fillet sandin' was completed. Avast! In addition, ya bilge rat, t' seam was sanded smooth and lower fillets were sanded, shiver me timbers, but t' cloth edge still needs blended to the body tube. Well, blow me down! Also, t' bottom o' t' boattail plywood was glazed with epoxy. Begad!

Some work was done on t' Nosecone; if you all have never had t' pleasure of usin' t' RGM Nosecones, arrr, matey, you are really missin' out! Blimey! T' quality is fantastic with a SEAMLESS design, ya bilge rat, yes, matey, I said seamless. Blimey! Blimey! It be like a rocketeers dream come true! Blimey! T' nosecone is made from resin and cloth and is yellow in color, arrr, similar t' t' resin model airplane and boat kits you can buy. T' quality is excellent, with a good fit at t' base, a molded-in U-Bolt and ultra smooth finish, arrr, me bucko, ya bilge rat, right out o' t' box. Begad! Blimey! They are t' date t' only "round" Nosecone I could find in t' 4" version. As a final FYI, Ross at Magnum told me that t' gentleman at RGM lays up all these cones one at a time, arrr, by hand! Blimey! With a price o' $29.95, shiver me timbers, they are about $10 more than a plastic ogive nosecone, arrr, matey, but you get what you pay for and it's worth it! Blimey!

T' nosecone was lightly sanded and washed t' remove any release agents, then one coat o' primer was applied, arrr, which came out nice. Blimey! No problems were found with t' primer stickin' t' this resin Nosecone. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy!

T' glassin' in t' lower fin area was sanded and blended usin' a dremel power sander, arrr, me bucko, then touched up by hand with 100 grit sandpaper. Arrr! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Plugs were inserted into t' lugs so they would nay get painted inside, me hearties, then t' holes for the motor retainer were re-drilled out and blind nuts were tapped with an 8/32 tap t' remove t' wax used t' seal t' threads from epoxy.

Finishing:

Three coats of white Krylon primer were applied t' t' body, followed by two coats o' gray Krylon primer. Arrr! Pinholes were filled next, then sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. Two more coats o' gray primer were applied, matey, me bucko, me bucko, followed by 3 coats o' white primer. Begad! Ahoy! I am lettin' t' body tube dry overnight and will wetsand it tomorrow, then apply more primer if necessary and t' colors. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Finally, t' nosecone was given about 6 coats o' primer, then wetsanded with 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper; 3 more coats o' white primer were applied t' t' nosecone and left t' dry overnight. Begad!

T' model was wetsanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, me bucko, then 600 grit. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I painted t' Nosecone first, me bucko, with 4 coats o' Krylon Glossy White spray paint. Next, t' body tube was painted, me hearties, also with four coats. Ahoy! Blimey! They are both dry, matey, but I am lettin' it set overnight before paintin' t' stripes. Ya scallywag! Blimey! In t' interum, me hearties, arrr, I am workin' on some scale decals for t' Harpoon, ya bilge rat, but need pictures...I don't have any good pictures o' t' letterin' for different sections. Aye aye! Blimey!

T' Harpoon be weighed at our first HPR launch ever for our Cincinnati NAR club. Aye aye! I almost fell over when I saw, me hearties, matey, but knew it be goin' t' be heavy, as I added most o' t' ballast in birdshot that Ken Parker gave me when I be in NC this past summer. Begad! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! It weighed in at 6lbs 7.8oz without motor!!!!!

I almost died...goin' t' have t' re-do all me sims t' see if it can handle an I211 because, even though she isn't painted, she was goin' t' fly at our HPR Launch, which is a two day event. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! It will be like flyin' a heavy torpedo, ya bilge rat, which is what it represents anyway, so what t' heck. Arrr! Blimey!

Flight:
I had two launches usin' an I211W for t' Harpoon's maiden flights. T' first flight was perfect; awesome power and came off t' pad stable, ya bilge rat, lifted well and deployed right at apogee. T' rocket landed safely and t' 54" PML parachute I used worked well and be unmarred due t' t' use o' a Keelhaul®©™® cloth. However, t' second launch had an early ejection. Begad!

Recovery:
T' nosecone tore off t' cord and plummeted t' t' earth, matey, yet was recovered after diggin' it out, ya bilge rat, with only scratches. Begad! T' rocket landed right on top o' a tree, about 40 feet up. Blimey! I spent 7 days tryin' t' retrieve it before it came out of t' tree. Avast!

T' rocket suffered a minor zipper in t' upper body tube, which was easily repaired. Avast! Begad! Blimey! I used Keelhaul®©™ ® shock cord for t' model and it came out with no marks at all. Blimey!

Summary:
T' tube was replaced and I applied all decals for t' Harpoon. Aye aye! Blimey! It really looks good now and will fly again soon. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Anyone interested in military missiles should consider buildin' one o' these. T' file has been uploaded t' EMRR and it's a great flier and real looker. Begad! Moreover, you can have a set o' decal files with all t' work done simply by sendin' me an email or visitin' Jim Ball's Scale Data website, me bucko, which should have me decals uploaded soon. Aye aye! Since t' design and decals are complete and it's a good flier, arrr, most o' your work is already done, so take t' leap and impress t' crowd with this AGM-84 Harpoon. Arrr!