Manufacturer: | Scratch |
This be t' model SP2050 Freightliner Space Truck
To me, ya bilge rat, me bucko, this looked like a series o' cargo containers inside a truss framework. Blimey!
T' cargo containers are slid into t' framework. Blimey! Once they are in place, the inertial dampeners and shields are activated. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Life support can be activated if thar be live cargo, such as livestock or if a prisoner transport module is loaded. Arrr!
T' ship is 1,000 feet long and t' GVW is less than 300 tons. It is an intrasolar vehicle, so warp capability it nay needed. Ahoy! Blimey! Havin' a 20,000 horsepower impulse engine made by Detroit Diesel and General Motors maneuvering thrusters, this be t' fastest cargo ship in t' FedEx fleet.
T' forward section contains engineerin' and crew quarters. Begad! T' aft section contains t' impulse engine. Blimey! Ahoy! It is designed t' ferry cargo from t' docks in low earth orbit, me bucko, arrr, t' t' docks at Mars and Europa. Begad!
Cargo area
Cab
Tanks
Aft End
Misc
Truss and cargo box
Cut t' balsa sheets into 4 sheets 18" x 1 7/8" pieces. Avast! This will provide t' spacin' need t' use t' small dowels at a 45 angle. Begad! (I made the mistake o' makin' them too wide and nay bein' able t' use them.)
To make t' trusses, shiver me timbers, cut t' 1/8" dowels into four 19". Begad! Use the balsa sheets as guides for linin' up t' large dowels. Glue t' mini dowels to the 1/8" dowels in 1 7/8" intervals, arrr, bein' careful nay t' glue anythin' t' t' balsa sheet. Avast! See pictures 1 & 2 for this. Avast! Make two o' these trusses. Avast! Do nay glue t' 45 angle dowels yet.
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Figure 1 | Figure 2 | Figure 3 |
Make t' cargo box by gluin' t' 4 sheets o' balsa together. Begad! See picture 3 to see t' arrangement o' t' sheets. Well, blow me down! This arrangement will help the positionin' o' it in t' truss work. Blimey! Aye aye! Strong fillets will be needed on t' ID of the box for strength. Well, arrr, blow me down!
Now back t' buildin' t' truss, me hearties, trim t' small dowels so that they are flush with t' large dowel. Ya scallywag! Usin' t' balsa box as a spacer again, arrr, finish t' truss. Once this is dry, start gluin' t' 45 angle dowels on. Aye aye! It should now look like figure 4. Well, blow me down! Aye aye!
Usin' Keelhaul®©™ string, me bucko, wrap t' truss in t' opposite direction t' form a series "X's" over t' truss. Blimey! If I had this project t' start over again, I would use t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' for all t' 45 angle cross bracing. Avast, me proud beauty!
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Figure 4 | Figure 5 | Figure 6 |
Finish t' truss work by gluin' on t' 1/8" x 1/4" balsa onto the corners. Aye aye! Blimey! Make sure none o' t' small dowels are protrudin' over t' large dowels. Begad! Blimey! I did this with toenail clippers and sandpaper. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It should now look like figures 5 & 6. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast! Blimey!
Do nay glue t' box into t' truss yet. Aye aye! You'll want t' paint them separately later. Begad!
Centerin' Squares and MMT
Punch out t' center discs from t' CR cardstock. Aye aye! Save these discs as you will need them later. Ahoy! Cut t' BT cardstock t' fit t' ID o' t' box. Arrr! Make 3 of them. Begad! Once you are satisfied with their fit, you'll need t' strengthen them. Cut some scrap balsa and glue them on t' centerin' squares. This will do two things; it will keep them flat and make them strong. Once these are dry, me bucko, shiver me timbers, glue one on t' end o' t' BT50 so that it is flush with t' end. Blimey! Glue t' second in the middle o' t' tube. You can add more support t' this rin' now. Arrr! See figures 7 & 8. Use a table t' make sure they are aligned. Aye aye! Ahoy!
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Figure 7 | Figure 8 |
When this is dry, ya bilge rat, glue it into t' cargo box. Arrr! Once it is in place, put glue on t' center card and glue t' third centerin' square in place. Begad! T' ends should be flush. Ya scallywag!
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Figure 9 |
Forward Tank Assembly
If you save stuff like me, me bucko, then you have a small bag o' those discs from centerin' rin' cards. Avast! If not, you'll need t' get more o' them. Glue these discs on t' t' ends o' t' 2" BT50s. Sand t' edges smooth once they are dry. Well, blow me down!
Use a rubber band t' hold t' tanks together. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Make sure they are square. Figure 9
Cab
Usin' t' 5" section o' BTx, arrr, two BTx BTx centerings and t' BTx x BTx centerin' rings, ya bilge rat, me hearties, make like you see in figure 10. Well, blow me down! Glue a small rin' on t' end, the other about an 1 1/4" from t' first ring. Avast! Now glue one o' t' big rings 2 1/2" from t' end and t' last rin' on t' far end. Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Glue on the tubes as seen in figure 11. Ya scallywag!
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Figure 10 | Figure 11 |
Make a shroud. I used VCP. Arrr! Begad!
This one doesn't have a nose cone. Aye aye! Since it never enters t' atmosphere, it doesn't need one. Avast! Aye aye! Just glue t' bulkheads on top o' t' cab t' achieve t' look shown. Ya scallywag!
Glue four 1.5" sections from some 3/8" OD AT igniter tube. Ya scallywag! Cut them t' match t' angle o' t' shroud. Glue these on so that they are between the tanks. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! See t' finished picture for detail. Begad!
Dockin' Assembly
This is too difficult from me t' describe. Ya scallywag! Here, arrr, a picture is definitely worth a thousand words. Ya scallywag! Well, arrr, blow me down! Figure 12 shows t' parts laid out, arrr, me bucko, and figure 13 shows the completed assembly. Ya scallywag! Begad! Glue t' tanks t' t' cab makin' sure everythin' is square and centered. Arrr! See figure 14
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Figure 12 | Figure 13 | Figure 14 |
Aft Assembly
I waited until t' end t' install t' motor mount so I had a better idea on the finished weight t' choose a motor size. Begad! You may want t' consider this as well. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey!
Glue a coupler into t' 3" BT50 MMT. If you want t' install a motor hook, you'll need t' do that now. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Glue a BT50 t' BT60 centerin' rin' t' t' end opposite t' coupler. Ahoy! Once dry, glue t' shroud t' t' assembly. Blimey! Glue t' motor assembly t' t' cargo container. Arrr!
Print t' fin template guide. Blimey! Make sure that your printer prints t' right size by measurin' t' shown dimension after it's printed. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Make four fins as shown on t' fin template. Blimey! Blimey! Glue them t' each o' t' four corners and t' the engine shroud. Ahoy!
T' rin' be made by printin' a transition shroud with t' dimensions of 5" x 6" x 1" ad be made usin' heavy paper cardstock. I glued a second shroud over t' first one t' stiffen it up and soaked them both with thin epoxy. Begad! Begad!
Final Assembly
See figure 15 for this step. Aye aye! Paint t' cargo container with red oxide primer. Well, blow me down! Sand t' first coat, me hearties, ya bilge rat, but leave t' second coat with t' mat finish. Now paint t' truss with a flat white, me bucko, matey, me bucko, or even a white primer. Begad! Figure 16. Aye aye! Once the two pieces are dry, me bucko, matey, it's OK t' glue them together. Avast! Well, blow me down! You'll want t' sand some of the paint off where you will be gluin' them. Blimey! Aye aye! I glued mine at each corner and at each end. Don't forget t' add a launch lug as shown in figure 17. Ya scallywag! I added two 18" chutes and kept t' two pieces separate on their own chutes.
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Figure 15 | Figure 16 | Figure 17 |
Finished weight with chutes is 8.4 oz. and t' CG is 16.5" from the nose.
Flight
T' first flight was on an E9-4. Arrr! T' flight be straight up t' at least 800 feet. Ahoy! T' ejection charge was late but recovery be good. Arrr! Blimey!
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