Brief:
An inexpensive solution for a rail pad usin' t' 80/20 rail. Made o' a combination o' PVC and metal pipe, usin' nothin' but a hack saw, shiver me timbers, a drill, me bucko, me bucko, and a Dremel. This pad should be able t' handle any Level 1 flight.

Construction:
Parts list:

• Three 5ft lengths o' SCH40 PVC pipe (one 10ft and one 5ft would be cheaper).
• Two 1 1/4" PVC Tees
• Two 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC Bushings
• One 1 1/4" PVC Cross
• Four 1 1/4" elbows 45 degree
• One 1" x 8" metal nipple
• One 1" metal T
• One 1" x 6" metal nipple
• Two 3/8 x 2" clevis pins
• Two hitch pin clips
• One 5/16 turnbuckle set (get t' set with deadlights at both ends)
• Four 1/4-20 x 1" carriage bolts
• One box o' 1/4-20 washers
• One box o' 1/4-20 lockin' nuts
• Two flat corner braces
• One 1/4-20 wood insert nut
• One 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" thumb screw
• Two 3/8 x 1/2 x 1 1/2" steel spacers
• One 3/8" x 2" hex head bolt with lockin' nut
• PVC Cement

My first order o' business was gluin' t' 1 1/4" t' 1" PVC bushings into t' PVC cross directly opposite each other. Next, I sanded t' inside o' t' bushings until t' 8" metal nipple be able t' slide through t' cross, ya bilge rat, keepin' t' fit snug. Ya scallywag! Once that be done, t' 8" nipple be cut into a 6" section, and a 2 " section. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Blimey! These were then screwed into each end o' t' metal tee. Ahoy! Now screw t' 6" nipple into t' side outlet o' t' tee. It was now time t' fit t' L brackets t' t' rail, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, matey, and shim them t' fit length wise on top o' t' 2" metal pipe. Avast! Once it be shimmed t' fit, a 3/8" hole was drilled through t' 2" section at a 90 degree angle t' t' side outlet o' t' tee, and t' L bracket rail assembly was attached usin' t' 3/8" x 2" bolt and lock nut. This creates t' hinge for t' rail. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Blimey! Next I cut a notch into t' top o' t' open end o' t' 6" nipple, matey, and drilled t' holes for t' turnbuckle attachment. Arrr! Blimey! In each end o' t' turnbuckle, drive one o' t' steel spacers into t' "eye". Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! These will need t' be cut t' fit one betwixt t' two L brackets, and one inside t' 6" nipple at t' notched end. Ahoy! Begad! Blimey! Place one end o' t' turnbuckle assembly betwixt t' L brackets at one set o' holes, and insert a clevis pin and hitch pin. Ahoy! Avast! Blimey! Place t' other end o' t' turnbuckle into t' slot in t' 6" nipple and insert t' other clevis pin and hitch pin. This completes t' hinge and altitude adjustment assembly.

For t' base, me bucko, dry fit all parts first and mark their locations!! Cut four 30" long sections o' 1 1/4" PVC pipe t' make t' legs. Ya scallywag! Begad! Cut six pieces, 2 1/4" long t' be used t' join t' fittings together. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Now dry fit all o' t' pieces together, matey, me bucko, startin' with t' cross. Blimey! Begad! Place a tee at each end o' t' cross (without bushings). Blimey! At each end o' t' tees, me hearties, place an elbow. Insert a leg into each elbow. Well, blow me down! This be t' tricky part. Avast, me proud beauty! Get t' legs at an angle and height you are comfortable with, makin' sure t' keep t' cross level, me bucko, and t' ends with bushings vertical. Mark and number all joints so they can be reassembled in t' same positions. Avast, me proud beauty! Now, me hearties, shiver me timbers, arrr, one at a time, ya bilge rat, me hearties, glue all o' t' pieces together, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, except t' legs. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! You will have t' be careful linin' up t' parts as t' glue sets up very quickly.

T' last step is optional. Aye aye! In one side o' t' cross, me hearties, drill a hole, and screw in a threaded brass insert bein' careful nay t' get it in too far. Begad! Now screw in a thumb screw into t' insert and this will allow lockin' t' horizontal adjustment into place.

After all o' t' glue has set, me bucko, insert t' legs. A small slit can be cut length wise into one end o' each leg t' make installin' and removin' easier. Now, arrr, drop t' rail assembly into t' cross, and thar it is, a sturdy cheap rail pad. Blimey! Vertical adjustment is done by adjustin' t' turnbuckle. Avast, me proud beauty! T' whole rail assembly can rotate in t' base for horizontal adjustment. and t' load a rocket on t' rail, just pull one o' t' pins out, and t' rail can be laid down for loading.

For a blast deflector, a rectangular piece o' sheet metal, ya bilge rat, say 6" x 18", can be bent t' form a triangle, and held on t' rail with rail buttons. This suggestion is courtesy o' Matt Stum o' railbuttons.com.