| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
(Contributed - by John Coles)
I'm a BAR with an affinity for oddrocs. Begad! Begad! While lookin' through t' Apogee Components catalog one day, with their array o' 10.5mm parts and motors, shiver me timbers, I thought about combinin' two o' me favorite hobbies, ya bilge rat, rocketry and traditional archery. Aye aye! After all, me bucko, arrows move at high speeds like rockets, are very stable like rockets should be, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and are only lackin' a self-contained propulsion source. Begad! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! So I decided "What t' hey", me bucko, generated a RockSim file t' test my design and then placed me order.
This be t' result.
Broken Arrow Break Apart Odd-Roc
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Length: 27.85" Main Airframe: BT-10.5 Parts List: |
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Most o' t' parts are finished separately before any assembly is done. T' exception t' this is in gluin' t' launch lugs t' the 9" (short) body tube. Avast!
T' first step is t' fill t' nose cone and body tube spirals with Elmerís Fill 'n' Finish (or whatever itís called these days), and sand them smooth. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!
Next, draw a line down t' length o' t' short body tube. Glue one launch lug onto t' line flush with t' forward end o' t' tube, me bucko, and t' other lug onto t' line 1 1/2" up from t' other (aft) end. Verify that t' two launch lugs are in alignment and allow t' dry. Begad! Avast! Fillet t' lugs and let dry again. Ya scallywag!
T' nose cone is painted satin black, t' 18" (long) body tube is painted brown, me bucko, and t' short body tube is painted gloss white with a .75" gloss black band on t' aft end (the "nock"). Begad! T' cresting on t' arrow is accomplished usin' stripin' tape o' various colors and widths, cut as necessary t' fit around t' forward launch lug. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! When t' paint is completely dry, ya bilge rat, assembly may begin.
Apply wood glue 1 3/8" into t' aft ("nock") end o' t' short body tube with a cotton swab. Avast! Usin' an Apogee micro motor or 3/8" dowel 1 1/2" long, push t' engine block 1 3/8" into t' body tube. T' micro motor should extend 1/8" out t' end o' t' body tube. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Remove t' motor, set t' body tube up on t' nock end and allow t' dry. Aye aye!
Glue t' nose cone into one end o' t' long body tube. Ahoy! Aye aye! Glue t' coupler halfway (1") into t' other end o' t' long body tube and set aside to dry. Aye aye!
Mark t' short body tube at 120 degree intervals, ya bilge rat, such that one line is opposite t' launch lugs. Ahoy! Attach t' feathers, one at a time, shiver me timbers, matey, t' t' body tube on these lines, usin' Duco cement or t' equivalent. Place t' back o' t' fins about 1/4" ahead o' t' "nock" line. Aye aye! You may find that clampin' t' feather with binder clips betwixt two 6" steel rulers allows for easier handling. Arrr! (I tried usin' me arrow fletchin' jig, shiver me timbers, but it can only handle up t' 3/8" [9.5mm] shafts.) When dry, me bucko, use t' Duco cement t' fillet the feather base t' t' body tube.
Fletch
Fin Template
3 ea. 5" shield-cut arrow fletchin' (from any sporting
goods store caterin' t' traditional archers). Begad! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Any standard 5" feathers
will work.
1/16" balsa fins may be substituted, shiver me timbers, but what's t' point?
Set t' screw eye into t' exposed end o' t' balsa coupler, and secure with glue. Avast, me proud beauty! Test fit t' coupler into t' forward end o' the short body tube. Avast! T' fit should be snug and smooth, nay too tight or too sloppy. Ahoy!
Attach one end o' t' shock cord t' t' screw eye. Well, blow me down! Attach t' free end of the shock cord at least 1" down into t' short body tube, usin' either a small Estes-style mount or t' method o' your choice. Ahoy! Blimey! T' key is t' make the shock cord mount unobtrusive enough so as t' nay interfere with deployment. Avast! Blimey!
T' final assembly step is t' align t' two sections o' body tube. This minimizes corkscrewin' durin' flight. Ahoy! Put t' rocket together as if prepping for launch. Arrr! Sight down t' length o' t' arrow, me hearties, and rotate t' two sections of body tube relative t' one another until they line up as straight as possible. Then mark t' coupler at t' point where it slides under t' forward launch lug. That way, when preppin' for flight you need only t' line up t' mark with the launch lug when puttin' t' two pieces together t' assure a straight flight. Arrr!
Preppin' for Flight
Insert two pea-sized balls o' waddin' into t' lower body tube and puff down against t' engine block. Aye aye! Accordion fold t' shock cord and slide it in, then close up t' two sections, me bucko, makin' sure t' line up t' mark on t' coupler with the forward launch lug. Avast, me proud beauty!
Fit an Apogee 1/2A2-4 micro motor. WARNING! Use a wrap o' tape around both the body tube and exposed motor t' provide positive motor retention. Arrr! (Black electricians tape preserves t' look o' t' rocket - maskin' tape works, arrr, me hearties, but doesnít look as pretty.) Failure t' do so can result in kickin' the engine and a lawn dart recovery (see flight report below). Begad!
Flight ReportT' Broken Arrow has flown twice, with one perfect flight and one recovery failure. Avast! T' first flight went up straight as an arrow (but o' course!), separated at apogee and recovered perfectly.
On t' second flight, ya bilge rat, I failed t' properly secure t' motor, which ejected at apogee. Well, blow me down! With t' CG shifted forward and t' aerodynamics intact, she came zingin' down from about 350' and stuck 1/2" into t' sun-baked, drought-hardened dirt. Arrr! Fortunately, matey, me hearties, it be far enough downrange that no one was ever in any danger. Arrr! T' body tube is kinked slightly just behind t' nose cone, and will be easy enough t' repair.
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