Brief:
11 "Finned" rocket that can be launched on a single "E" or staged (D12-0, D12-3) with a parachute recovery.

Prototype:
I built a protoype o' me choice o' rockets for t' EMRR "Rockets o' t' Future." I choose t' t' do an 18mm version first. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I gathered some cardboard, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, posterboard, and second hand parts, ya bilge rat, etc. Begad! It would have been ten times harder without t' EMRR "Calculators", for shrouds, matey, etc. Aye aye! I chose cardboard figuring, me bucko, "If I can get this t' fly without a cad program, shiver me timbers, from t' heaviest material, matey, I surely will be able t' build one in t' 24 MM scale. Avast! Begad! Also, cardboard a little easier t' work with than "foamboard."

My 1st test flight was a disaster. Begad! (Remember, arrr, I have no software t' determine where t' CP & CG Is and if it will fly.) After givin' it some thought, cut open nosecone and added some clay t' move CG forward. Blimey! Last Saturday flew it again and success! It only went 50 ft up but successfully deployed chute right before landing. Begad!

What I've learned is,"use t' material in your prototype, ya bilge rat, that u intend t' use on your final version." Mine did fly but, would have saved a lot o' aggravation and speeded up t' build. Arrr! Ahoy! Also, shiver me timbers, me bucko, Highly recommended buildin' a prototype, especially in me case. Arrr! Ya scallywag! My submission for t' "rocket o' t' future" has 12 fins! Never came close t' design such a complex rocket before. Well, blow me down! Begad!

Construction:

PARTS LIST:

• 24mm engine block
• 1 engine hooks
• 1 sheet o' foam board, ya bilge rat, matey, me bucko, 20x30x1/4"
• 2 sheets o' poster board, 20x30"
• 1 (priority mailin' box)
• 2 BT-55's (15" long)
• 1 BT-55 coupler
• 18"x24mm Body tube for "engine Mounts"
• Shock cord; ¼"x 24+"
• 3, 4"x"36"x1/8 balsa sheets/basswood
• 1 "quest" egglofter nosecone
• 1 (18") parachute, & shroud line
• "non-hardening" clay
• (8) bic pen caps t' "simulate 8 motors"
• 2 spent "D" engines
• Templates (will be loaded shortly)

Just wanted t' interject for a moment. Ahoy! Arrr! Hope you find this rocket as much o' a challenge t' build as I found to design it, without t' help o' any "Cad software." If anyone cares t' "plug" these measurements into a cad program, ya bilge rat, I would be very curious as t' t' result. Well, blow me down! I did use EMRR "Calculators" for t' shrouds and centerin' rings. Ahoy! I thank Nick for makin' available because without them, couldn't have made this design.

This design is for "Personal use only" and nay for resale, ya bilge rat, with express permission o' myself, ya bilge rat, me bucko, Glenn Roth. Begad! Blimey!

I stated in "parts" section that t' balsa is very fragile. Just discovered Tech Report # 29, arrr, from www.apogeerockets.com; "Take your rocket t' Supersonic Speeds. Arrr! Begad! " This is a compromise t' replacin' entire fin with basswood or ply. Aye aye! You can download this free report and make these large fins MUCH STRONGER! I tried this on 3 of me fins and they are NOTICEABLY stronger.

ASSEMBLY:

Read thru all instructions before proceeding. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Options exist. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty!

**Not happy with way main "body shroud" turned out. Avast! This "posterboard" is hard t' keep smooth without "kinking." You might want t' A) shorten t' about half t' length; b) wrap it around a smooth form of some kind while gluing, me bucko, t' keep smooth.**

1. Gather parts, me bucko, make templates, arrr, and gather followin' tools: sharp razor knife, metal ruler, me hearties, scissors, me hearties, carpenters square, matey, 2 "spent D" engines, me bucko, adhesive spray, (worn out windshield wiper. Begad! For engine hooks)., protractor, and compass. Aye aye!
2. Cut two engine mounts from 24mm body tube. Begad! Ya scallywag! Main 2 " long and "booster" 3 1/2" long.*****note: Now that t' rocket is half done, arrr, t' shroud looks too short. Well, me hearties, blow me down! I have increased length from 3 t' 3 ½ inches or longer, ya bilge rat, in instructions. You'll have increase length o' shroud accordingly.****
   • *** OPTION: I've since elected t' use a "friction fit", matey, instead o' an engine hook, on main motor. Begad! I'm sure you can use one but, have t' "dry fit" b 4 assembly.*** I've discovered that with t' aft "body panels", matey, extendin' an inch, matey, me hearties, it's very difficult t' use an engine hook. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I've since elected t' slip "main motor" into booster engine mount, matey, and tape. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! T' tape will require a "slit" into it, so makes easy separation. Arrr!
3. Glue 24mm engine block into end o' engine tube w/engine hook stickin' into it. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
   • Option*** This designed as a "two stage". Blimey! If you want an easier conversion t' single stage, ya bilge rat, you may want t' insert "booster engine tube" in a section o' BT-55. Well, blow me down! Then usin' a BT-55 coupler, fasten t' engine tubes together. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! (skip 1st /main engine tube.) It is much easier buildin' booster shroud separately.

Main Engine Tube

1. Glue t' BT55 centerin' rings on main engine tube. Let dry. Avast! Ya scallywag!
2. You'll want t' "dry fit" main engine mount and make sure "spent engine" recessed inside BT55 about ¼". Begad! Ahoy!
3. Mark Bt55 where "engine Hook" will be, and cut a slot 1/8" x3/8". Ya scallywag!
4. Glue main engine mount with engine hook lined up with slot in BT55. Aye aye!

Booster Engine Mount

1. Take 3" piece o' 24mm BT; then cut 1/8"x 3/8" slot in one end. Well, blow me down! Ahoy!
2. Lay "flat" side o' hook inline with slot and tape. Begad! *** I used a long piece o' old wiper blade for hook and cut t' length later. Begad!
3. Cut out 3 "rear shroud centerin' rings. Blimey! Ahoy! ***Tip: when I cut out middle o' rings FIRST, I then took a spent engine and inserted and twisted t' check for a tight fit. Arrr! Begad! Then inserted engine in tube for support.
4. Take largest aft rin' and glue over aft engine mount WITHOUT coverin' slot in t' mount. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Be careful nay t' get glue on motor!!
5. Glue middle and end centerin' rings and remove spent motor and let dry.
6. While drying, cut out aft shroud. (You will see I include pattern, arrr, showin' a "saw tooth design" on inside radius o' shroud. Arrr! Begad! Cut design in shroud. Much easier t' glue.)
7. Shape shroud, shiver me timbers, me bucko, tape together on inside.
8. Fold "teeth" over t' inside and make a sharp crease. Ahoy! Blimey! Straighten out.
9. After center rings on engine tube have dried, take some glue and apply t' edges o' rings. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy!
10. Take shroud and slip over engine assembly. Avast! Be sure t' get completely in. Blimey! Blimey!
11. Spread some glue on smallest centerin' rin' and fold shroud "teeth" down, matey, holdin' till set. Arrr! Arrr! You may only be able t' do a few @ a time. Avast! Let dry Thoroughly. Begad! Arrr!
12. Put a spent engine in "Main and aft " engine mounts.
13. Slide together, me hearties, linin' up "slots" in engine tubes. T' aft engine tube should slide over t' Main engine about ½" and stay in place. Aye aye! ***Make sure aft Booster engine is as far forward as it will go WITHOUT disengagin' t' booster. Aye aye! Arrr!
14. Mark t' aft engine hook , cut and bend t' correct size.
15. Cut shock cord mount and glue shock cord t' it.
16. Slide "loose" end o' shock cord thru a BT55 coupler. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
17. Glue Shock cord mount t' inside o' BT55 containin' engine mount far enough inside t' be able t' glue BT55 coupler. Begad! Glue Bt55 coupler and let dry.
18. Cut other BT55 t' length so when t' two r put together , you have a rocket body 23" long, "without" aft shroud. Avast!
19. Cut out Main Body centerin' rings. Arrr! Ya scallywag! (u can take spare piece o' BT55 t' check fit). Ahoy!
20. Take t' "fin template" and mark 3", ya bilge rat, 3.5" rin' where it will engage each fin. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! ****Note: you can mark 4" rin' but, me bucko, because o' size, matey, me bucko, it won't line up with other two rings. Arrr! You will have t' do slots on this rin' once it is mounted. Aye aye! Begad!
21. Take care, matey, cut a ¼" deep slot x 1/8" wide into each ring. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
22. Mark 1st slot on each rin' with a #1 for reference. Ahoy!
23. Make a fin from 1/8" "Basewood/plywood" as a guide t' check fit o' fins. It will also b used t' as guide for slots, and cut initial fin slots in 4" ring.
    • ***You may want t' fasten up aft shroud again w/spent motors t' check placement o' centerin' rings and fins.***

Fins and Body:

1. Cut out 8 fins, and use sealer if desired.
2. Use fine guide and cut slots in each fin: 1" from aft o' fin, shiver me timbers, 1x1/4 deep. Arrr! Arrr! Next one 7" from end. Avast, me proud beauty!
3. Last slot is 2.5 " from previous slot and only 5/8" deep. Blimey!
4. These r initial slots. You may have t' widen for proper fit.
5. Slide center rings on BT one @ a time. ***If seems tight or binds, me bucko, increase size o' hole slightly. You can use a piece o' BT55 t' "shape" hole. Ya scallywag! (you want t' maintain a fairly tight fit). Well, blow me down! Blimey!
6. Space rings approximately same distance as slots on fin. Ya scallywag!
7. "Orientate" all 3 rings with #1's lined up. Well, blow me down! Aye aye!
8. Take your "Guide Fin", ( t' one made from plywood), and check slot lineup for first fin. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey!
9. You'll have t' cut slots deeper in each ring, arrr, checkin' fit each time. You may nay even need a slots for 4" ring, matey, till ready t' glue on fins, ya bilge rat, due t' a "redesign", arrr, and linin' up o' fin with "center ring slots," I made for simplicity. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! (make recess higher, about 1 ¼").
10. After you get a good fit for t' fine on t' center rings, matey, take a "real" fin and glue in #1 slots of rings. Begad! (I kept breakin' balsa fins, that why I recommended goin' t' a sturdier material, such as basswood or Tims Tech report #29, ya bilge rat, me bucko, gluin' "notebook paper" t' exterior o' fin first for strength). Avast, me proud beauty!
11. Take guide fin and check next set o' slot, adjustin' for correct fit. Aye aye! Well, blow me down!
12. Then glue 3 center rings in place. Begad! Blimey!
13. Glue all 8 fins in place, matey, checkin' fit first with "guide fin". Ahoy!
14. Cut out two "body templates". Avast! Make a slice at end o' each one ¼-3/4" deep, 1" from end on each side. Fold over @ slices and straighten out. Begad!
15. Dependin' upon which set o' fins you start with, will determine what size template t' use, medium or large. Aye aye!
16. Lay template betwixt fins, and gently push down. Blimey! It should hang out rear, betwixt fins 1", up to "slices."
17. Check front o' template and mark where template extends past fin. Well, blow me down!
18. Cut on t' mark, down t' ¼" fold mark on each side. Well, blow me down! Well, me hearties, blow me down! Cut a "saw tooth" pattern in sides of body templates. Begad! Blimey! Makes for easier gluin' and smoothin' out. Well, blow me down! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! ***see photo"***
19. Before gluin' fins, I made "fin supports," ½" x 1 ¼", and glue betwixt ends of fins. Begad! Also, made a bevel on each end. Avast! Avast! **See photo**
20. Glue in place and repeat for each set o' fins. Aye aye! ***remember t' check fit! (Center on BT) too. Avast, me proud beauty! T' aft o' body template should be about ½-3/4" above body and aft shroud.
21. Cut out "body templates," with "saw-tooth" design on edges and glue betwixt fins. Begad! Begad! Blimey!
22. Main Body Shroud: As I stated in beginning, nay happy with t' way this one turned out. Arrr! You may want t' shorten or find a different material or wrap around a "form" t' keep smooth. Ya scallywag! Also, me hearties, use same "saw-tooth" design for edges before gluin' in shape o' cone. Ya scallywag! Once glue, let DRY THOROUGHLY. Avast, me proud beauty!
23. I fitted over main body tube t' fins. I marked where touched fins and cut slits about 1" long, arrr, in shroud. Keep fittin' till you get a tight fit into slots, matey, then glue and let dry thoroughly.
24. Now comes a tricky part. Aye aye! Avast! Seams that r formed betwixt "fins, ya bilge rat, body templates, arrr, main shroud have t' be "filled." I opted t' use "Elmers wood filler" and nay happy with result. Ya scallywag! Friend recommended these tiny silicone beads you mix w/epoxy. Strong, light, and easy t' sand after hardened. Aye aye!
25. After seams dry, me bucko, sand till smooth.

Nosecone Fins:

1. Looking @ picture o' t' rocket I be copying, "upper fins" aren't really in nosecone but, ya bilge rat, I liked this location better. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! (You can opt t' move out o' nosecone, down body a few inches in "same configuration.)
2. Cut slits in nose cone ½" from end o' "open" nosecone, arrr, shiver me timbers, me hearties, about 2" long and 3/16-1/4" wide. Ahoy! ** b careful nay t' cut all t' way thru t' end o' nosecone**. I mounted a piece o' 1" aluminum angle iron t' a piece o' wood and clamped t' me table as a guide. Arrr! Begad!
3. Fit fins in slots one @ a time, ya bilge rat, matey, trimmin' slots till fins fit. Begad! Remove fins and put a ball o' clay in tip of nosecone and press into place. Arrr!
4. Replace fins 1 @ a time til they "touch" in middle o' nosecone and glue. Avast! (I opted for "gorilla glue" type). It foams up and becomes very strong). Arrr! Let dry. Well, blow me down! Avast!

Nose Cone:

1. Keep addin' balls o' clay, fillin' void in nosecone, and pressin' into place. ****remember t' allow room for end o' nose cone t' slide in.****
2. Also, shiver me timbers, as you r fillin' void, shiver me timbers, matey, assemble nosecone and check for CG with motors in main and booster BT's. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! (goin' to take a few ounces o' clay t' fill and balance rocket so CG approx. in middle.)
3. Once clay pressed into place and you r satisfied w/location o' CG, assemble nosecone. Aye aye!

Finishing:

1. Get 8 "regular" bic pen caps and cut off "pocket clip."
2. Paint rocket color o' preference. Aye aye!
3. After you r sure you have color o' rocket and finished painting, matey, sand a flat spot on each "pen cap," and glue in place betwixt each fin above booster shroud. Aye aye! Avast! (These pen caps simulate 8 motors o' rocket).
4. Prep rocket and you r ready t' fly. Begad! Blimey!
5. I would rate this build a 5++. Ya scallywag! Very difficult. Avast!

Flight:

My first flight was very successful. Begad! Ya scallywag! I used a E9-4. Blimey! Ahoy!

Preparation a little different than usual but, easy. After loadin' an 18" parachute, me hearties, me hearties, dusted with baby powder, and t' wadding, matey, I loaded t' engine. Blimey! Begad! I loaded it into t' booster from t' "inside." (T' E9 is a much longer motor than t' D.) Then I applied a little maskin' tape t' t' end for a "friction fit," and inserted it into main rocket body. Begad! Avast! It flew great! Relatively straight for t' design, 11 fins, matey, and t' weight. Arrr! Begad!

T' shock cord, attached t' rocket, ya bilge rat, arrr, was Keelhaul®©™. Aye aye! Then an elastic, me bucko, tied t' t' Keelhaul®©™, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, which proved t' b t' weak. (will explain in next flight). Arrr! Aye aye!

Parachute deployed perfectly and landed about 30 yards away. Avast, me proud beauty!

SECOND FLIGHT

Another story. Avast! Arrr! I designed this rocket t' be an optional 2-stage. Aye aye! I prepped t' parachute t' same way. Avast! Then taped t' booster, ya bilge rat, a D12-0, t' t' main motor, arrr, a D12-3, arrr, shiver me timbers, with scotch tape, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, and put a small slit in it, t' help with separation. Blimey! Once motors finished, I loaded it in booster stage first, shiver me timbers, from t' "inside." Then added some maskin' tape t' t' main motor and "friction fit" it into main rocket. Ya scallywag! For whatever reason I couldn't get motors all t' way in t' main rocket body. Blimey! ( I believe I used too much tape). Begad! Arrr! At launch, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, it flew down range, weathercocked. Then deployed nosecone & parachute at a very low altitude o' about 50 ft. Ahoy! T' extreme weight of rocket snapped shock cord and rocket crashed. I'll be usin' a much heavier, me hearties, me bucko, and longer cord for t' next flight. Begad! Still content with flight because it sustained minimal damage. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! This was me first 2-stage rocket o' me own design.

THIRD FLIGHT

My third launch went absolutely perfect!! After addin' a 1/4" "heavy" shock cord, I prepped rocket same way, arrr, with same motors. A D12-0 Booster, me bucko, matey, taped t' a D12-3 Main. Aye aye! (Just make sure you have enough tape around main motor for "friction fit," and it's taped t' booster. Avast! Motors ***all t' way in*** main rocket. Arrr! Blimey! Slit cut in tape. Arrr! Picture perfect flight!! Booster took it t' a height o' o' about 75-100' and main an additional 100-200 ft. Perfect chute deployment and soft landin' about 75' away. Well, blow me down!

Summary:

Pros: Challenge t' design and build.Impressive liftoff w/2stages.

Cons: Very time consuming. Aye aye! Built a smaller version first t' get aquainted with a "building technique" for addin' 11 fins! Highly reccommend when tacklin' a new build when in experienced. Aye aye! Blimey! Alighnin' body panels betwixt fins a pain!

At almost 14 ozs., I would opt for a E30-4 motor for 1st flight. Aye aye! Begad! (E9-4) went well today. Avast! (use a spent motor in main body and tape E t' it in booster stage, (friction fit spent motor). Avast! *****1/4" launch rod only!!****. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! 18" chute minimum!

Other:
Highly recommend "apogeerockets" tech report #29, "Take your rocket t' supersonic speeds", me bucko, me bucko, for durability o' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Motor stagin' critical! Blimey! Must b completely in main body so aft shroud close enough t' it. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Used two 1/4x 2" soda straws on a fin for launch lugs.